ls 130 or rts 400?

[jallen03]

So I'm looking for a rectangular finish sander, mainly comparing these two.  I already have an ets 150/3 for large flat surfaces, but I need something that can sand into corners and along raised edges.  I like the rectangular pad shape over the dts 400 because it allows sanding sheet rotation to balance wear.  The specs on these two look similar with respect to pad and motor output, obviously with the difference being the orbital/linear motion. 

I'm leaning towards the ls 130 because, in theory, it would sand better along raised edges, and the pad change out for different profiles could be useful in the future (not an immediate need, and seemingly quite spendy).

My questions are...

1.  Does the sanding pattern on the ls 130 limit its effectiveness on the same uses that the rts would be good for?  Ive read that sanding with the ls 130 is really slow, but wasn't sure if it was much different than the rts. 

2.  Does the ls 130 sanding motion leave large scratches or poor finishes in comparison to the orbital motion?  I'm worried that the grits may have the urge to track into the wood, leaving a deep pattern on the coarser grits that would be extremely difficult to remove with the finer grits.

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[hhh]

Have both.  The 130 is really good when I mill some custom moldings and want to sand the profile.  I use the 400 to 'get into corners'.

 

[semenza]

The LS130 does make "tracks" in the coarser grits (actually in all the grits but they are more noticable in coarse) but sanding through grits takes them out.   Because of the sanding motion it is more important to make a couple of passes and then move to the next grit, with less grit skipping than can be gotten away with on other types of sanders. It is really for edges and profiles. I definetly would not recommend it  for getting into corners on an others wise flat surface, the linear motion can mess up a flat surface in a hurry.

I have not found the LS130 to do well below 60 grit , which I have in Cristal for stripping.

Here is a link to a review that I did with some additional info that might be helpful in making your decision. I am sure that there are some additional threads on FOG also.

LS130 Review

I don't have an RTS400 but it certainly seems like it would be a better choice for corners.

Seth

 

[Scott B.]

The rts400 is the better all around finish sander.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

All good advice above.  The LS 130 is a linear sander - perfect for sanding profiled moulding, but the 400 would be best for corners.

The LS 130 shines when you need to make your own profiles.  I use it for smoothing coopered work.

 

[Scott B.]

I love the ls130 for many things, can't really live without it, but there are 3 others I'd grab ahead of it on trim and cabs.

 

[hhh]

== but there are 3 others I'd grab ahead of it on trim and cabs.

what are they??

 

[Scott B.]

RTS400
DTS400
Ets125
and if large enough panel work were involved, even ets150.

I do alot of this type of sanding on jobs:

RTS400 and DTS400 Comparative Project Footage

 

[hhh]

yea, i can see that from the video...  those 3 would be best in that situation.  do you use the 130 for moldings?

 

[Scott B.]

yea, i can see that from the video...  those 3 would be best in that situation.  do you use the 130 for moldings?

Yes, for crown and other deep molding all the time. When confronted with lots of molding detail, I will also use it on flat stock as shown here:

Linear Sanding Custom Trim Profiles in Paint Prep

 

[jallen03]

Thanks everyone for all your replies.  The videos were exceptionally helpful.

I should note that I am only a hobbyist, and try to go into things with the one-device-do-it-most approach (even though i eventually end up buying the other option at some point  [unsure])

As I do have an ets 150 already, I was thinking that most sanding would be done with that, but looking for another for finishing touches and corner/edge cleanup.  Has anyone ever used the LS in this fashion, or is it preferred to cover the whole surface with the rts (as in Scotts cabinet sanding video)?

And, the crown sanding video reminded me that I am doing that to the house soon, so the LS would be preferred in that area.  I know the preferred method is using the rts, but does the LS leave as good a finish on the large panels and corner sanding as the rts, but maybe a bit slower?

Thanks again!!!

 

[Scott B.]

if I were you, I would get the dts400 to do everything that your ets is too big for. That would be a dynamite combo for your needs.

 

[Scott B.]

Thanks everyone for all your replies.  The videos were exceptionally helpful.

I should note that I am only a hobbyist, and try to go into things with the one-device-do-it-most approach (even though i eventually end up buying the other option at some point  [unsure])

As I do have an ets 150 already, I was thinking that most sanding would be done with that, but looking for another for finishing touches and corner/edge cleanup.  Has anyone ever used the LS in this fashion, or is it preferred to cover the whole surface with the rts (as in Scotts cabinet sanding video)?

And, the crown sanding video reminded me that I am doing that to the house soon, so the LS would be preferred in that area.  I know the preferred method is using the rts, but does the LS leave as good a finish on the large panels and corner sanding as the rts, but maybe a bit slower?

Thanks again!!!

j

To your question, the ls, while a remarkable multi-tool, is just not as competent as a flat out finish sander at an interior trim or cabinet grade level. I feel like I could make it work, but it would not be a good experience for very long. The fundamental reason, to me, is that a finish sander needs to be a smooth one hand operator that floats. As a linear sander, the ls just doesnt have that feel for me. I especially don't think it would be easy to control pointing into corners because of the linear motion.

Again, the ls is a sander that I cannot live without for very long, but its not a peak performer as a finish sander in typical situations. As others have noted, if you need a custom profile, such as handrails etc, it is the choice, but for most trim and cabinet situations, it is the workhorse of the prep stage, and then the orbitals take over because they are the one hand floaters in the group, and because of their size, they have the best extraction in the family, eliminating swirl risk which is critical in final finish sanding.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Another vote for the DTS 400 instead of the RTS. The DTS is a MUCH nicer sander.

 

[hhh]

==> The DTS is a MUCH nicer sander

not sure that one sander is nicer than another... it's more about how suited they are for a particular job...  for moldings and profiles, the 130 is a good tool... for the OP, the 400 is a better match...

 

[Kev]

To me a complete set for finishing would be EST150/3, DTS400 and LS130. The DTS400 is a very sweet sander.

 

[hhh]

==> To me a complete set for finishing would be EST150/3, DTS400 and LS130. The DTS400 is a very sweet sander.

good kit...  if you work on smaller projects, i'd substitute the 125 for the 150.

 

[duburban]

i'm sweet talking myself into a dts400/midi package. it looks like you can sand a flat surface right up against a wall without marring the wall, is this true? i.e.: the rotex edge guards.

 

[Kev]

i'm sweet talking myself into a dts400/midi package. it looks like you can sand a flat surface right up against a wall without marring the wall, is this true? i.e.: the rotex edge guards.

No edge guards on the DTS400, but it's a very fine action giving you immense control.

 

[Scott B.]

i'm sweet talking myself into a dts400/midi package. it looks like you can sand a flat surface right up against a wall without marring the wall, is this true? i.e.: the rotex edge guards.

I sand small scale drywall with it quite a bit. Whats nice about it is that is has a beveled edge that comes out to a fine point at the surface, so its just about impossible to rub up against anything that you dont intend to.

In this picture, I am sanding the drywall ceiling in a shower, following the grout line between the tile and ceiling. Its a little cruiser. Just be sure to turn down the suction for ultimate float. [attachimg=#]