made an oops

festal

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Joined
Dec 12, 2019
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745
Hello all.

I managed to damage one mfs 400 extrusion and one mfs 200 extrusion.  Forgot to unplunge and wait for rotation stop  before I lifted the router and bit came in contact with the extrusions in the corner.  There is a little gouge.  Whats the best way to repair this?  it doesn't seem to get caught when moving the copy ring in that area but still. 
Also anyone know if its possible to get replacement extrusions?  one 400 and one 200?

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Festool no longer offers replacement rails in the US. That ended about 4-5 years ago, unfortunately you're best bet is to order replacement sets from the EU.
 
Packard said:
This company sells replacement parts for Festool.  But it reads like this is a discontinued item.

Correct, the MFS 400 and 700 sets were discontinued in the US long, long ago.

You can buy the profiles in pairs from Europe/UK IF you can find someone willing to ship to the United States, which they're forbidden from doing even for something that is discontinued in the US and... you know what, never mind the soapbox...

In any case, if you need a new 200 and a new 400 piece, this is one of the few times when it's actually cheaper to get the two sets of profiles rather than another complete set.  The official part names are "MFS VP xxxx", where "xxxx" is the length of the profile in mm.  They have 200, 400, 700, 1000, and 2000.

Your set looks like an imperial set, anything you get from overseas would be in metric.

I have a few extra profiles but I can't honestly say what size or what condition without digging them out, and as a hoarder I am loath to dig them out and/or sell them.  [embarassed]
 
festal said:
Whats the best way to repair this?

Use a file to file away the bad part till you have a nice rectangular gap, as small as possible. Then insert a new piece of aluminium, a tiny bit oversized. Glue it in tight with superglue and file away the excess aluminium to make it completely flush with the rest.
 
If you knew someone who could TIG weld it for you then you'd be
almost as good as new but with some discoloration from the heat.
 
I would file smooth and then fill the holes or low spots with some type of epoxy or epoxy putty like JB weld as mentioned.  Personally I would apply tape to build a dam then pour some clear resin, let harden file/sand smooth.  You could tig weld it to but thats going to cuse even more damage.  The anodized coating doesn't play well with welding on or near it.  It will try to contaminate the weld and its going to burn off near the weld.  I think the epoxy is the least destructive. 
 
Oops.. I know the feeling [sad]

But, maybe visit a metal shop, or car body shop? Then if you didn’t need it back straight away, they might do yours when they have the gear out for a similar material job?
 
Personally I would carefully scrape/file off any burrs so the parts can slide over the damage and will lock square when tightened. And just leave the battlescars as a reminder to be more carefull in the future.
Like you said, I don't think the damage is wide enough to affect use with a copyring.
 
Thank you all.  No wonder i couldn't find them on festool parts site. 

I'm going to file it flush and just use it as is.  I tried it with copyring and there is no detectable drag while moving the router. 
[member=74278]Packard[/member] mine is metric.  I don't think there is a imperial version of this.

I actually do have jb weld, used it to repair the ring that holds the ratcheting mechanism on a drill press, might give that a try to fill in the gouges and make it smooth. 
 
squall_line said:
Packard said:
This company sells replacement parts for Festool.  But it reads like this is a discontinued item.

Correct, the MFS 400 and 700 sets were discontinued in the US long, long ago.

You can buy the profiles in pairs from Europe/UK IF you can find someone willing to ship to the United States, which they're forbidden from doing even for something that is discontinued in the US and... you know what, never mind the soapbox...

In any case, if you need a new 200 and a new 400 piece, this is one of the few times when it's actually cheaper to get the two sets of profiles rather than another complete set.  The official part names are "MFS VP xxxx", where "xxxx" is the length of the profile in mm.  They have 200, 400, 700, 1000, and 2000.

Your set looks like an imperial set, anything you get from overseas would be in metric.

I have a few extra profiles but I can't honestly say what size or what condition without digging them out, and as a hoarder I am loath to dig them out and/or sell them.  [embarassed]

Thank you.  If you find them and want to sell them DM me :) 
 
Bob D. said:
If you knew someone who could TIG weld it for you then you'd be
almost as good as new but with some discoloration from the heat.

Don't believe I know anyone lol
 
festal said:
Bob D. said:
If you knew someone who could TIG weld it for you then you'd be
almost as good as new but with some discoloration from the heat.

Don't believe I know anyone lol

Years ago I had this really gorgeous white Irish cable knit sweater.  A girlfriend asked me if my mother knit it for me. I said, “No.  I got a perfect stranger to knit it for me.”

She asked, “How did you manage that?”

I said, “I bought it from Bloomingdale’s”.

Google, “TIG welding near me”. I’m sure you’ll find a shop that can do this for you.
 
Do not TIG these extrusions. They are anodized and extrusions do not often weld well. JB Weld is a good idea.
 
You could try filling the oops with aluminium solder. Melts at a much lower temp and shouldn't bother the anodizing.
 
JB Weld or similar aluminum filled epoxy is also in place in my MFS and APS Festool Guides. Works a treat. With bigger „dents“ you might need to repeat the process 2-3 times, but you can get back to a smooth surface. :)
 
Let’s see how this goes

47850725ced3dafc6720cf9cab7e0d07.jpg


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Not pretty but very smooth. Jb weld and sanding worked great thank you
7036553c2058074e8f467ca2d38aff6e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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