Makita sp6000j and freud blades?

shakey Johnny

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Feb 11, 2016
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Hello everyone.  I've been lurking for a while, sorry for the lame first post.  Oh and thanks for all the info, can't tell you how many times I googled "how do you do this or that?" and ended up at a fog post!  To think about a year ago I didn't know a cross cut from a rip cut, now I'm posting on the fog.  Down the rabbit hole!  Anyhoo the question:  I don't have a TS yet but I do have a Makita sp6000j, which I love, but doing a bevel cut the other day it kicked back on me (because I'm a moron) and scarred the bejesus out of me.  It took a chunk out of the rail (the anti-tip didn't hold with the force of the kickback) My feeling is that I had twisted the rail slightly in clamping, and also wasn't behind the saw but felt I would be safer with the blade facing away from me, so yeah, I was putting force on the wrong side.  Plus the blade was struggling as is (on 3/4 baltic birch) so it's time for a new one.  I'm anxious to get cutting again, but Home Despot only has a Freud 6-1/2 40 tooth which I picked up.  I put it in, but it is definitely thinner.  Is that OK?  I mean won't this blade deflect all over the place?  It is on tight, but I can torque it from side to side.  Thanks. 
- Shaky Johnny
 
Well done Shaky Johnny for taking the leap from anonymous lurker to full-blown member!  [big grin]

Generally, the thinner the plate, the more it will deflect when pushed hard. But if the blade is doing it's job of cutting, a thinner blade will actually put less strain on the saw; that's why you generally have thinner blades on battery saws. I don't have experience of your saw so can't say whether blade stiffeners would be an option.

As you have the blade, see how it goes. Don't push too hard, let the tool do the job.

 
I have used their blades and they work just fine.  You can also get a fiber cement blade from CMT, it works great for both siding and cement based underlayment.  The blade I really want to try is the 60 tooth one from Triton.
 
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