MB40 - experience with cup hinges?

[bwehman]

After watching Festool Live on Friday it looks like this thing will be a pretty great jig to knock out cup hinges really quickly with all the reference marks it has baked in. Have any of you EU brethren used it in that application?

 

[Coen]

MB40 you mean?

I don't have it.

 

[bwehman]

MB40 you mean?

I don't have it.

Obviously a typo, so sorry.

 

[ReneS]

How do you repeat locations?

I am assuming with a guide rail, but with guide stops or the LR32 rail?

The LR32 system is very good, in my opinion and experience.

 

[tjbnwi]

How do you repeat locations?

I am assuming with a guide rail, but with guide stops or the LR32 rail?

The LR32 system is very good, in my opinion and experience.

Sedge did a video on the MB 40, the boring distance is set with an edge guide (it has an index for the most common 5mm boring distance), the vertical placement is set by your layout lines and the cross lines machined into the MB 40 base.

Tom

 

[ReneS]

Thanks, Tom.

I watched the video. It was very interesting.

 

[Cheese]

How do you repeat locations?

I am assuming with a guide rail, but with guide stops or the LR32 rail?

The LR32 system is very good, in my opinion and experience.

The MB 40 comes with both a 3mm & a 5mm indexing pin depending upon what diameter drill bit you're using.

 

[P_K]

This doesn't look like exactly a standard 35mm cup hinge bit though it seems pretty close. I've already got a hinge machine so really don't want to spend $500 on the Blum jig just to drill out larger doors so the MB40 might be actually worth checking out.

 

[rmhinden]

I wasn't doing anything else this afternoon, so I gave my MB-40 a shot at drilling a cup hinge. I had some left over hinges and a piece of plywood.

Seemed to work pretty well, marked out where I wanted to drill the holes, drew some lines to use as alignment, set and clamped the MB-40 in place, and drilled the holes. Seemed to work pretty well. Easy to align and clamp in place. See attached pictures.

If I had a lot of doors to make, getting something like the Blum jig might make sense. But for a small number of doors this would be fine. Better than the plastic template I had used before.

I discovered that dust collection works great for the 35mm hole, and that the edge guide with the rods attached fits in the Systainer. Nice to not have to take it apart.

Bob

 

[bwehman]

Interesting! Also how did you get your hands on an MB-40 already in SF? haha

For the 35mm hole, did you just line the edge of the workpiece up with the 22.5 cutout?

Currently, I use the OF1010 and router bits for Blum hinges, it's great of course, but for some reason in my head the setup of the MB-40 feels easier and quicker? IDK.

 

[rmhinden]

I got it when I was in Madrid in July. Yea, pretty much just lined up the inside edge with the board edge, but then verified it with the lines I drew, and then lowered the bit.

I don't a strong opinion if this is better than a router set up. I mostly wanted to see if it was possible. Not the main reason I got it.

Bob

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I like the edge guide and indexing pin procedure. That would make it exceptionally easy to "retrofit" shelf pin holes into an assembled cabinet. Yes, I have needed to do that (way more times than I care to remember)
I was a little hesitant, when I first heard about these, but the more I see, impresses me.
I have a full-sized drill press, so drill guides never really seemed that useful? This might convince me.

 

[tjbnwi]

I like the edge guide and indexing pin procedure. That would make it exceptionally easy to "retrofit" shelf pin holes into an assembled cabinet. Yes, I have needed to do that (way more times than I care to remember)
I was a little hesitant, when I first heard about these, but the more I see, impresses me.
I have a full-sized drill press, so drill guides never really seemed that useful? This might convince me.

I just got done drill an existing cabinet. Always fun…

Tom

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I just got done drill an existing cabinet. Always fun…

Tom

Oh yeah.
It was many years ago, but I got the supreme joy of drilling a bunch of them in about 25 lockers. They were only about 9" wide, which really increased the PITA factor, but the real kicker.......I'm the one who built them, in the first place! I called it out, before they were assembled, and was told "No, they are not necessary." Less than 2 weeks, after they were installed, I got sent out to fix them. (This is probably at least part of why I hate installs, to this day) Many times, my participation in an install, seemed like a punishment. Every one of them was a negative experience.

This would not have helped, in that situation though, they were just too narrow.
I have had cases where someone wanted to add another shelf, in an existing unit. The one I specifically remember was a pair of large storage cabinets (like refrigerator size) They had 4 shelves and the customer wanted to go with 6 and have less vertical space on each one. They previously drilled hole pattern didn't extend far enough in either direction. Because of a "fixed" center partition, the LR32 rail wouldn't fit. I ended up doing it with a template, that had a couple of pins, which registered off of the existing row. It worked, but was hardly ideal. Sometimes there just isn't an elegant solution.

 

[tjbnwi]

Best part…..it is one of our cabinets. The CNC will not drill the pin holes if the side is 3/4” or more from the edge of the face frame. We missed the drilled divider (an add on part for these situations) when the cabinet was built. I had to drill the plate holes also.

Tom