Gents, Ladies, has anyone an opinion on MDF for a crosscut sled? I just had new countertops put on my new kitchen and I used MDF for the four months it took to come in for countertops. I have one last piece that is perfect size for a larger sled than the ply one I use now on my sawstop. I am just curious if there are any downfalls to using MDF as the actual sled. Thanks all, Chris
MDF Crosscut Sled
- Thread starter Chris1970
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Sparktrician
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MDF is more susceptible to swelling irreversibly if it gets wet. You may want to seal it with Arm-R-Seal or Osmo Poly-X.
Like cutting tails first or pins first, both camps of using MDF and ply can be right, though some caution against humidity, dust etc.
As long as it's not too heavy a fixture for you, an MDF sled shouldn't be an issue. I believe this commercial sled -- Dubby (In-Line Industries) --https://www.in-lineindustries.com/products/dubby-the-original-table-saw-sled/ is made of MDF in the core.
Mine is plywood...3/16" thick (base), not 1/2" or 3/4"! Very light weight.
As long as it's not too heavy a fixture for you, an MDF sled shouldn't be an issue. I believe this commercial sled -- Dubby (In-Line Industries) --https://www.in-lineindustries.com/products/dubby-the-original-table-saw-sled/ is made of MDF in the core.
Mine is plywood...3/16" thick (base), not 1/2" or 3/4"! Very light weight.
For temporary counter tops I only use melamine. Cost effective and can be reused or repurposed. Counter top jig makes whatever temp material easy to make. A top mount sink temp plumbed in is easier with no need to worry about edge sealing. Save the fancy bottom mount sink for final install. Messes on melamine clean up nicely too.
As to sleds I prefer plywood as my goal is for the lightest sled possible while still being strong. 1/2" for the base with thicker fence and front brace. Hmmm...never thought of building a type of torsion box for the rear fence until now. Anyone ever do that?
As to sleds I prefer plywood as my goal is for the lightest sled possible while still being strong. 1/2" for the base with thicker fence and front brace. Hmmm...never thought of building a type of torsion box for the rear fence until now. Anyone ever do that?
Sparktrician
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Another thought - If you're making a sled, consider using phenolic-covered plywood. Dust just slides off, and the sled moves effortlessly. I made a router sled using phenolic and couldn't be happier with its performance. I used 18mm thickness to eliminate any chances of deflection, and to resist abrasion wear to zero over time.
