MDF vs Baltic Birch for Workbench with 20mm holes

[ear3]

Starting to think about my workbench redesign, and was wondering about materials for the top, and the relative virtues of Baltic Birch compared to MDF.  I think the workbench will be largely an assembly, clamping and sanding station, with little cutting (I'll keep using my MFT and TS for that).  Any thoughts on what's better, both in terms of the initial build (e.g., less tear-out with MDF when making the holes), and for the long term (e.g., more surface durability with Baltic Birch in cases of spillage)?

 

[nclemmons]

I'd go with MDF - much cheaper, no splintering, yet still stable and easily sanded to 'refresh' periodically - with Baltic birch, I think you will always be dealing with splinters and trying to sand out spills will eventually delaminate it.

 

[Mr Heavy]

If i's a production device, definitely MDF.

If it's something to sit in your garage to lay out your tools for visitors to admire, or to do a little "gent's saw dovetailing" then Baltic birch.

Either way, it needs to be oiled for glue-ups.

 

[Cheese]

I use my bench strictly for layout, assembly, glue-up, Domino use, planing, sanding and general mechanical/electrical assembly projects. Thus I opted for a material a bit more durable than MDF. I used a 1.75" thick maple top and machined 20mm holes in it to secure the various items with dogs. The maple top has a pre-applied catalyzed coating on it that can be cleaned with acetone or just about any other solvent. The bench is very rigid, stable, flat and it doesn't move. I also mounted some 80-20 aluminum rails on the front and sides to aid in clamping. Very happy with the results.

 

[Stephen B]

Have a look at reply number 7 in this thread -

http://festoolownersgroup.com/workshops-and-mobile-vehicle-based-shops/the-tidying-of-the-untidy-shop-project-1/msg363098/?topicseen#msg363098

I have been very satisfied with this top. It is supported at the moment by two KD9045 rails and two horses. More permanent work to come.

 

[Hud]

I had a Baltic birch top CNC cut with the 20.1mm holes on 96mm centers for a 8020 based MFT and I don't think that splintering will be much of a problem.  Haven't got it together yet need to get a ancient project out of the shop and then I will cut the 8020 and assemble.  I feel that it will hold up better than mdf.

 

[jmbfestool]

For a work bench I thinK MDF or Birch will be fine.  To save money you are best of with MDF.

I don't see any real benefit to using birch for a work bench in a workshop.

I do how ever believe birch is better to use for transporting and going on site.  Especially if it's a slab only to be placed on trestles.  It can take a lot more knocking on the corners/edges with out real significant damage.  Also can handle a little bit of rain better than MDF.

 

[John Beauchamp]

MDF it's slicker, harder, flatter, and more stable than plywood. I have full working cabinet shop, been using 3/4 MDF for runout on table saw/ assembly table for 15 years and still going strong just a little stained. mostly i cover it when staining but still a few drips over time. Even water doesn't affect it if you wipe it up right away.

 

[tiralie]

MDF it's slicker, harder, flatter, and more stable than plywood.

Agreed. MDF edges don't hold up so I put hardwood strip (maple, birch etc.) around it otherwise a much flatter more stable surface albeit heavier if properly supported.
Tim

 

[ear3]

Thanks for all the replies.

 

[John Beauchamp]

Tim, 15 years ago I would have agreed about the edges and always thought I should do something but never did. In use though the edges have held up very well except where I cut them with a jig saw. After about ten years I just gave up and said if needed I would just put a new top on.

 

[Brent Taylor]

Edward, down here in the panhandle of Florida they sell a high density exterior grade of MDF  (green in colour ), it would hold up better in a garage environment.  If you go with the bb, I found that a slight chamfer or round over on the dog holes saves on splintering and aids on getting the dogs in. I have built benches both ways and have found that both work fine, but for long-term use the HDF is best if a fiber board is used.

 

[ear3]

Thanks for the tip.

Edward, down here in the panhandle of Florida they sell a high density exterior grade of MDF  (green in colour ), it would hold up better in a garage environment.  If you go with the bb, I found that a slight chamfer or round over on the dog holes saves on splintering and aids on getting the dogs in. I have built benches both ways and have found that both work fine, but for long-term use the HDF is best if a fiber board is used.

 

[curt boyer]

I choose MDO for my truck shop table for the following reasons. The ply is lighter than mdf, less dust during milling, water resistant, and the surface is smooth and easy to finish. Because my bench gets exposed to sun and moisture every day mdf is a bad choice. The MDO doesn't swell with moisture like mdf does. We use mdf for paint grade or budget jobs and we hate it. The dust gets everywhere and is like brown drywall dust. The edges are a pain to deal with. Labor always costs more than materials, so for the small saving in materials you get a pig with lipstick or something like that! Can you tell I hate mdf?

If you use plywood of any type I would like someone previously suggested I would use a 1/16" round over router bit and ease the edges of the holes. This makes putting the dogs in much easier and if you have painted and polyurethaned your top like I did easy to add coats of finish without adding material to the hole sides. If you have to rebore the hole I chuck the 20mm router bit in a drill and drill it out, the same trick works for shelf pins that the painter tried to fill in.
Cheers
Curt

 

[Scorpion]

Another option for you to consider.  I laminated an MFT of mine since I had no need for the top to be sacrificial (the bench top is a permanent assembly anyway).  Would work the same for any bench.  It cleans up super easy after glue-ups and takes abuse much better than ply.  Takes a bit longer to machine but is worth the effort. 

 

[leakyroof]

Plus 1 on using MDO.  I too, worked way too much with MDF in the 90's.... [mad]

 

[Holmz]

... a pig with lipstick ...

^That is cute^ Curt.

I always use the term "a pig with spats", but either way when the sun comes up you realise you stuck with a pig.