MFK700 ?

[joec]

My next tool may be the MFK700. I am confused about the 1.5 degree base and the zero degree base for horizontal routing. I want to be able to edge-trim plywood and, I guess, I would want the zero degree. What comes with this tool in the basic package?

 

[Brice Burrell]

Joe, the set comes with the 1.5 degree base and that's what you want to trim veneer or solid edge banding. I did a small write up on the MFK on my site, it shows what comes with the set.

 

[joec]

I usually add 1/2" strip to the plywood and then flush trim it off at the router table with a jig I made for holding the panel being trimmed, vertical. With a flush trim bit it will not have the 1.5 degree bevel. That seems to be what I would want (same profile as a flush trim bit would leave). I think the 1.5 degree base would be good for very thin counter top trim etc. Am I correct with this thinking?

 

[JohnDistai]

I saw in one of the videos that the 1.5 degree bevel is to keep the bit from nicking the veneer next to the banding.  I'm not sure if that was what you were asking about.

 

[joec]

I am adding a 1/2" thick by 7/8" wide piece of hardwood edging to the plywood and then flush trimming it to the plywood. I do not use veneer to edge trim plywood.

 

[twang120]

Joe,

I just got the MFK700 the other day after reading the posts on this site as well as other reviews.  Haven't had a chance to work with it yet, but its been stated in other posts that it will trim up to 5/8" hardwood edging.  I bought the straight cutting bit #491666 to use in the horizontal mode.  It seems in the horizontal, the bit size is very important.  In the vertical mode, I checked the 1/4" bits I have in stock, and found no problems as of yet.  I may have to be careful when purchasing a straight cutter for dadoing cabinets backs for 1/4" ply since many of the spiral bits seem to have long shanks.    I haven't measured it with a caliper yet, but it seems there is about 5/8"+ of vertical travel.  Hopefully I will get a chance to "play" this weekend and will report my findings.

From what I read, the 1.5 deg tilt is not noticable and will avoid tearing out your veneer.

The basic ($400) package only comes with the vertical base and no horizontal base.  When purchased separately, the horizontal base is $150 and I believe you will have to purchase the dust hood and other accessories separately, which is additional.  IMO, I would go for the full set if you intend to do edge banding.  I too considered the "basic" option as well, but opted for the set.

 

[bionicus]

Have you looked at the OF 1010 and the horizontal edging plate?  http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/festool%27s-edge-routing-accessories/

 

[twang120]

Brice did a review of the 1010 edging accessories as well as the MFK.  Perhaps he has better insight on the choice of one versus the other.

 

[joec]

Have you looked at the OF 1010 and the horizontal edging plate?  http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/festool%27s-edge-routing-accessories/

No, I want to replace my Bosch Colt router first and the 700 seems to be the ticket, for now anyway.

 

[JohnDistai]

I didn't mean the veneer on the edge banding.  I meant the veneer on the horizontal surface.  Look for the Woodwhisperer video on the MFK 700.  He explains why there is a 1.5 degree bevel.  Plus, if you remember that a circle has 360 degrees, 1.5 degrees over such a small radius will be almost un-noticeable.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Joe, like I said I think you'd be happy with the 1.5 degree base. As Twang said the 1.5 degree angle isn't noticeable and you need to be careful with bit length. I have the 491666 bit and it's made to be used with the MFK. It's only 5/8" or so long, your 1/2" edging will work fine with this bit.

 

[chrisrosenb]

Joe, I have used the MFK700 to trim 1/2" thick banding & it works great.
I used a straight bit. 

 

[tbellemare]

The way I use it, if the task is to trim "edge" banding to be flush with the finished surface, you want to use the 1.5-degree base. This way, you don't have any risk of marring the top surface. The base has a micro-adjustment so you can really fine tune where the transition of the cut lands.

This works for hardwood and plastic edging as well as laminates.

If you're working with laminates (like Formica) on top AND the edge and you want the top to overlap the edge (for water resistance), you want to use the zero-degree base and trim the edge banding to abut the bottom of the top surface before applying the top surface.

That's my logic and it works easily with this tool.

Tom

 

[Kevin Stricker]

The 1.5 degree offset will be noticeable on 1/2" material.  That base is more suited to veneer or PVC edge banding.  You will need the 0 degree base if you want a professional result with that application.

 

[Brice Burrell]

The 1.5 degree offset will be noticeable on 1/2" material. 

Kevin, you're right. I said in my earlier post I said it wasn't. I should have said it isn't really all that noticeable and I don't think it's a problem. Given the benefit of extra insurance of the 1.5 degree offset so you don't cut into the ply's veneer it well worth it to me. My 2 cents. 

 

[Wonderwino]

When you setup the 1.5 degree base & bit, you'll need to have a sample to fine tune your setup.  Both the depth of cut and the guide bearing are adjustable.  When you get it right, it is almost fool-proof.  The tool has the power to get through any 1/2" hardwood edge band without hesitation. 

About the only way the 1.5 degree bevel will be noticable on a 1/2" edgeband is if you set a straight edge on the flat surface.  You could slip a piece of 20# paper under the outer edge.  I don't think it will make a practical difference on a free edge.

 

[Kevin Stricker]

Hmm, well I am not certain on 1/2" material, but 5/8" is painfully obvious.  I could see it from about 4 feet away, and  it looks funky when looking at it from the front.  I have a hard time believing that an eighth would make much of a difference.  Maybe I'm just anal..... [big grin]

 

[twang120]

I just got a chance to use my MFK trimming edge banding on a vanity countertop.  I used 1/2" thick corian as the edgebanding with a formica laminate top.  With the 1.5 deg base and the micro adjusmtment, it was no problem getting the corian near flush with the formica.  I cannot notice the 1.5 deg angle unless I put a straightedge against the top.  I used the vertical base for trimming the formica and rounding over the corian banding.  I was most impressed with the dust collection, probably 90%+ efficient.  Also, the vertical base is offset, providing a high level of stability when edge routing.

 

[joec]

I have decided to go ahead and buy. Can I get the 0 degree base instead of the 1.5 degree base as part of the standard package, or is it only as a option?

 

[jonny round boy]

I've often wondered the same - if I were to pull the trigger on the MFK700, I'd want the 0 degree base instead of the 1.5.

Here in the UK, the MFK700 is available either as a 'Plus' model, or a 'Set' model.

The 'Set' includes the vertical base & the 1.5 degree; the 'Plus' does not include the 1.5 base, but is about GBP70 cheaper. The 0 degree base as an accessory is GBP66, but doesn't come with the dust shroud that's fitted to the 1.5 degree base, or the bottom bearing assembly either.