MFS Clamping

[Woodwork Wizard]

Low T-track to clamp the work piece at worktop height.

High T-track can then be used to clamp MFS on RH side 90* bracket independently of work piece while another squeeze clamp locks the back end of the MFS down to the worktable.

 

[Klemm]

you probably explained the reasoning and benefit of alternately off-setting that first row of 20mm holes in your worksurface - can you post a link to the explanation or show it here?
thanks
Hans

 

[Woodwork Wizard]

you probably explained the reasoning and benefit of alternately off-setting that first row of 20mm holes in your worksurface - can you post a link to the explanation or show it here?
thanks
Hans

The two rows of holes are for pressing the work piece up to so the Domino can be used. There's two rows so 2 different sizes of wood can be held in place. 69mm and 47mm overhangs the worktop 2 - 3mm so the Domino will never hit the work table regardless of cutter height.

 

[GarryMartin]

More inspiring work Ian. You really do put some thought into the improvements you make to workflow and tool operations.

 

[Woodwork Wizard]

Thank you for the kind words Mr Martin.

I meant to include in the original post that it's most useful when you forget to rout in the hinge recesses and the cupboard door is assembled. But if it's used on just the stile it's still quicker than what I was doing as the piece stays clamped and the MFS jig is now very easily moved to the next hinge location. Trying to clamp work piece and MFS simultaneously to the vertical while ensuring the whole thing is level with your work surface is not easy, especially if it's a complete door. I've tried many ways to clamp the MFS, I've always managed somehow to clamp it at 2 locations, but this is the best way I've found.

 

[sancho57]

Thank you for the kind words Mr Martin.

I meant to include in the original post that it's most useful when you forget to rout in the hinge recesses and the cupboard door is assembled. But if it's used on just the stile it's still quicker than what I was doing as the piece stays clamped and the MFS jig is now very easily moved to the next hinge location. Trying to clamp work piece and MFS simultaneously to the vertical while ensuring the whole thing is level with your work surface is not easy, especially if it's a complete door. I've tried many ways to clamp the MFS, I've always managed somehow to clamp it at 2 locations, but this is the best way I've found.

Mr. Martin???? Hey Are you trying to get a ride on his work Helicopter?

Woodwork Wizard Between you and Peter , You guys are tempting me to get one of those MFS's

 

[GarryMartin]

Woodwork Wizard Between you and Peter , You guys are tempting me to get one of those MFS's

What? You don't have one...  [poke]

[attachimg=1]

 

[copcarcollector]

You guys are tempting me to get one of those MFS's

Geeze Ron, even I have one! Still new in the box, but I will get around to it...!  [big grin]

 

[tjbnwi]

You guys are tempting me to get one of those MFS's

Do it---do it now...

I've got one, wish I have a few more profiles.

Tom

 

[sancho57]

Woodwork Wizard Between you and Peter , You guys are tempting me to get one of those MFS's

What? You don't have one...  [poke]

[attachimg=1]

You too?????

I have been looking at them since I saw Peters video.... Might get the 400 and buy the 700 rails later

 

[GarryMartin]

You too?????

Afraid so...  [unsure]

I have the MFS 400 and the MFS-VP 1000 extensions.