MFS Improvements

Dan Clermont

Festool Dealer
Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2007
Messages
1,134
Hello

I picked up a MFS 700 and a set of MFS 2000 rails. I feel this system will help with the way I work in many ways

I'd like to see the following improvements if possible.

- the MFS 2000 is $317.00 and for that price I'd like to see the millimeter markings on the rail as found on the 1000mm, 700mm, 400mm and 200mm rails

- For some reason Festool only put threaded inserts on one side of each profile. Inside the threaded insert is a hole for the screws.

If you want to use the profiles with the metric markings closest to your fence you must now take out the threaded inserts and move them over to the other side of the profile. I wouldn't think this would add a significant cost to this product

So far I am loving the system. Need to get more clamps though

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One other improvement I would like to see is a bracket or fastener to attach the perpendicular profile to the extension profile when the extension is used as a fence.

My main reason for purchasing this MFS system was for repeated same size cuts using the TS-55 and also for dado's so being able to attach the MFS 400 or MFS 700 system to either the 1000mm or 2000mm profile which would act like a fence would be helpful.

I have included an image showing the area I would like to connect. I can build something and probably will in the near future but think it would be beneficial for Festool to offer something

 
Dan--

You mean attach the rectangle to the 2m extrusion, as shown? 

If we had such a connector, it could also connect an MFS extrusion vertically to one lying on the table.  Not sure what I'd do with that capability, which is why I mention it here.

Ned
 
Dan,

I may be totally missing the point, but I seem to remember that in someone's review of this product (and I'm going from memory since I don't own one myself) that the metric markings are intended to go on the inside and the locking screws on the outside (that way the scale is relevant for sizing a template to cut inside with the router, and the screws will tend to pull the template square).

For attaching one profile perpendicular or using it as a fence, I know Incra does some extruded aluminum bracker to attach their fence to t-track etc, maybe that would work, failing that, drilling holes in short pieces of aluminum angle would make quick and cheap brackets.

Rather than moving the threaded inserts to the other side, you could probably leave them in place and order more inserts from spare parts and fit them to the other side (again, I have not used the tool, but I don't think that would interfere with the operation of the template).

if you actually move them, it seems to me that would limit the minimum size you could set the template to, since at some point you won't be able to get a tool in to tighten the screws.

 
Steve the scales can be set to read from the inside as you described or the outside as Dan is using for a fence. I did a write up recently on the MFS review., in it I show some of the different uses of the MFS system,  or check out Jerry Works manual.

Well, I'd like to see two things, first, the V nuts, the half cylinder shaped nut to connect the profiles, would be very easy to loose, I think the set should include a spare or maybe two. The second, I think a canvas or nylon bag with pockets for the profiles to help prevent the scale from scratching off so easily during transport and storage.

 
Ned Young said:
Dan--

You mean attach the rectangle to the 2m extrusion, as shown? 

If we had such a connector, it could also connect an MFS extrusion vertically to one lying on the table.  Not sure what I'd do with that capability, which is why I mention it here.

Ned

Yes, I'd like to connect the MFS 700 (set up as a square) to the 2 meter extension profile. I can fabricate something cause I have the time but not everybody wants to do that.

I'd also like to see the threaded inserts in all four corners instead of the opposite corners on each profile. This would allow you to use the unit as a square, T-Square, etc

I also agree with Brice some sort of case, bag would be nice to protect them

 
  hi Dan

          Congratulations, on your recent acquisition, I've been wishing, and hoping, for the same set up for quite awhile. I'll have to check the price raise list to see what's up with the increase their, hope it's not 70% percent like the handle. come on... that still bugs me. thanks Dan
 
Dan,
In the 3rd pic from the top, I noticed you have a second mft and a new box of 5x30 dominoes.
They seem to be blocking the fire exit, Are they in the way?

Mirko
 
Hi Mirko

That is the MFT you paid for and the Domino's you bought.

Unfortunately, I won't be available for you to pick them up for say.... oh 3 years  ;D

They aren't in the way. I folded up the MFT and stashed your Domino's till we can get together

Dan C
 
I agree, put in the extra v-bolts, let the user take them out if they are not wanted, same with the locating pins, left-hand thread them in with an allen head, fill up all the damn holes with something for gods sake, I feel like half my hardware is missing.  My 2 week quest to hook 6 profiles together is not going well, as my single 700 with 4 pins and 2 v-bolts didn't arrive on friday, no phonecall either, I sure hope it comes tomorrow, my stairway is 2 weeks behind schedule.
 
When can we buy a  solid billet cnc'd torpedo level that slides in the v-bolt tracks?  One could choose which size level one wants. The 2000 would be perfect for doors.  With long connecting rods, connect profiles together for long spanns.
    Sell a saddle for mounting a perpindicular profile for a sliding t-square, add one more at a 90* angle for a double sliding layout square with adjustable stops.  Any person doing large scale layout would love this, also perfect for pattern layout on sheetgoods, etc.  The perfect soloution for winding stair layouts.

    Do I get a commission?
 
spikfot said:
same with the locating pins, left-hand thread them in with an allen head, fill up all the damn holes with something for gods sake, I feel like half my hardware is missing. 

Pins in all ends would interfere with flush mounting for rectangles.
 
greg mann said:
spikfot said:
same with the locating pins, left-hand thread them in with an allen head, fill up all the damn holes with something for gods sake, I feel like half my hardware is missing. 

Pins in all ends would interfere with flush mounting for rectangles.
 
Read what I said again.
  If the pins are threaded in with an allen head, that means you can remove them. 
 
 
i missed that, but then the pins will get pretty delicate I would think. All they actually do is make alignment a little easier if you dont have a flat surface to reference. I do understand your consternation. They actually have a picture in the catalog showing the MFS configured as you want. If you look closely you will see that the profiles are different than the present design. I am guessing they are the GEAT profiles that preceded what we have today.
 
greg mann said:
i missed that, but then the pins will get pretty delicate I would think. All they actually do is make alignment a little easier if you dont have a flat surface to reference. I do understand your consternation. They actually have a picture in the catalog showing the MFS configured as you want. If you look closely you will see that the profiles are different than the present design. I am guessing they are the GEAT profiles that preceded what we have today.

I removed a pin just for kicks and think that they would become quite fragile over time and the aluminum threads in the profile may break down. The profiles are so expensive I'd hate to damage mine by removing the pins although I sure wish they placed them in all 4 corners of each profile even though it renders that groove pretty much useless for any fixtures

Dan Clermont
 
  The locating pins are necessary for a strong joint.  my setup is with 2-700s, 4-400s, it weighs about 15 lbs. and when moved, that much weight causes the whole jig to twist unless it is clamped to something flat. the pins are not only for alignment in setup.  I tapped out my empty holes to m5 and screwed in my own allen bolts stopping at the unthreaded shaft, which after cutting off the head, left a perfect 5mm pin. I received my comp 700 profile, so that became my permanent double sided profile to connect all 6 profiles.  If you remove a v-bolt connector to add on to another, rethread the new hole with a tap and not the bolt itself if possible. if you cant find the left hand thread tap, and you must use the bolt, use a lot of compressed air to clean off, and hard loctite to help correct the sloppy setting cuts. "   
   
 
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