venk67
Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2010
- Messages
- 93
I am at the stage of cutting out the rearpanel of the "little Landrover" .
Had to cut out the tail gate- and lets just say i was unsuccessful with the plunge on the PS 300. I think my router will offer a safer approach and be able to clean up the errors made with the jig saw.
So my questions relate to :
1. With the MFS in this configuration provided I clamp it below the work piece and provided I check for squareness, i do not have to close off the rectangle correct?
2 I have an 8mm bushing and a 30 mm one; the 30 mm one offers the use of the "puck" would you use the 30 mm bushing with the puck to cut out this rectangle? I did a dry run and it seemed much more stable and less likely to tip. The only down side is that my MFS template would have to be 12 mm bigger in each dimension given the offset ( plan to use 1/4 inch, 6mm spiral up bit)- If I read Jerry Work's guide properly.
3. is any lubrication needed between the surface of the router base and the MFS?
Appreciate any advice
Venk

Had to cut out the tail gate- and lets just say i was unsuccessful with the plunge on the PS 300. I think my router will offer a safer approach and be able to clean up the errors made with the jig saw.
So my questions relate to :
1. With the MFS in this configuration provided I clamp it below the work piece and provided I check for squareness, i do not have to close off the rectangle correct?
2 I have an 8mm bushing and a 30 mm one; the 30 mm one offers the use of the "puck" would you use the 30 mm bushing with the puck to cut out this rectangle? I did a dry run and it seemed much more stable and less likely to tip. The only down side is that my MFS template would have to be 12 mm bigger in each dimension given the offset ( plan to use 1/4 inch, 6mm spiral up bit)- If I read Jerry Work's guide properly.
3. is any lubrication needed between the surface of the router base and the MFS?
Appreciate any advice
Venk