MFT/3 and the 1080 rail

vkumar

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Joined
Jan 22, 2007
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567
I am just getting into the MFT/3.  Due to some carelessness on  my part I gouged the the 1080 rail that came with it.  So only about 650 mm is free of the gouge.
I suppose I can try to use it with the gouge other than not having the splinter guard for 2 inches that could work.
The other options would be to buy a 1080 rail or a 800 rail or use my 1400 LR rail (maybe a bit too long)

What is the collective wisdom here?
 

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File down the jagged parts and then apply a new Splinterguard strip. Should work fine until you feel you need a new rail. (Then get a holey rail as replacement)
 
Thanks I do have the holey rail 1400 , but it is a bit long for this application dont you think? I will try to use the gouged 1080 rail after filing as you suggest.
 
I just meant that the shorter holey rail can be real handy if you have to buy a new one. I have two short rails, one on the MFT and one for for everything else, including LR32.
 
I gouged mine pretty good when I didn’t tighten the guide rail on my router. I would cut the sharp edge off and file it down then put on a new splinter guard. I did this and mine still works just fine. Every time I look at it, it reminds me not to be dumb...
 
Just buy a new one, not sure if it’s salveagable or serviceable and scarred. Guide rails are inexpensive to replace. Lucky it want a 1400, 1900, 2700 etc.
 
In your case I would remove the burrs and apply a new splinterguard as suggested by others.

A few years ago I was making cabinets, and I couldn't get my mft3 dialed in, I rarely used my mft3 as a cutting station, and I always transported the 1080 rail with the hinge attached, so the rail probably got slightly twisted or something. I had a bunch of 1400 rails, one still in the box, and I decided to cut it to make a new 1080 rail. The piece that was left turned out very handy, it fits in the systainer, and I have used  it a lot.
 
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