MFT/3, ETS 150/5 EQ, Domino 500, and CT 26 E

zarek

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Messages
2
Hi all,
This is my first post and I thought I should give an amateur hobbyist perspective on these tools. I find this board to be an interesting place to visit and learn so I'd like to contribute.

Anyways a couple of years ago I bought a TS 55 so that I could cut expensive sheet goods to size. I was very impressed with the saw but it has only seen limited use until recently. As with a lot of us, life got in the way for a period of time. But, this past month I was able to add the Festool items that I had been wanting to my arsenal.

I have just purchased a MFT/3, Domino 500, ETS 150/5, CT 26, a number of clamps, the Systainer Domino assortment with bits, and the Abrasives Systainer which I have loaded with Rubin 2 paper in all grits. With these tools and my TS 55 and its accessories I have a very nearly complete Festool system.

As I said my original foray into Festool was so that I could could properly cut cabinet grade plywood to size. I needed this ability as I was completely dissatisfied with muscling the sheets onto my table saw. I just knew there had to be a better way and my internet research led me to the Festool track saws.

My house was built in 1961 and is in need of upgrading. I am completely remodeling the basement and that will include a full bath, laundry area, workshop, and a nice entertaining room. Unlike what I see in most peoples basements, I don't want just drywall, cheap paneling, and a drop ceiling. I want it to be even better than the rest of the house. I will also be making a kitchen pantry that matches the original built in place cabinets and some new bathroom cabinets.

Now to the tools: The ETS 150/5 sander replaced a 5" Bosch RO that I thought was nice. Using the new Festool sander combined with the CT 26 is such a better experience that it can't even be compared. Take your old sanders and throw them out the window, the Festool is that much better.

The MFT/3 is so handy, I love clamping boards to it for the various finish and joining operations. It's so quick and easy it's fun. I have also been using it to cut baltic birch plywood to size and shape. In this use its been ok so far but not great. I have found that it is difficult to get perfectly square cuts. Even using a Woodpecker square and making sure the rail and guides are set perfectly a bit of error seems to creep in. I will continue to refine my technique before I make a final judgement on this.

The Domino 500 has been a completely new experience for me and one I'd like to talk about. I purchased it because I believed that it's capabilities would allow me to do quality work beyond my modest skill level. I tried pocket screws a year ago and became somewhat disenchanted with them for two reasons, they are ugly, and even when used as directed they often split the wood.

I used the Domino this past week to join both 12mm and 19mm Baltic Birch plywood together as well as 1" oak boards. I made platforms to elevate my washer and dryer off the floor for easier access. Here's my initial impression: The Domino is easy to use and with minimal practice I learned to make great joints that were slightly offset and not flush on the ends.

It turns out I had to adjust both the sight gauge and the paddle indexer size to get the tool dialed in. In all honesty this should be delivered in perfect adjustment from the factory. For what this sells for that is what a customer expects. I don't believe for a minute that they even try to do it at the factory. If they did they wouldn't be enclosing the exact size replacement paddles with the unit needed to bring it into alignment. Perhaps they figure that anyone who shells out the money for this will go to the trouble of dialing it in. Whatever the reason, I can't help but think it detracts from Festool's reputation and credibility. Their reputation for quality should be guarded at any cost as it's the only reason I paid as much for these tools as I did.

After getting past the issue that this tool must be user adjusted to work right I can honestly say it does work and is a game changer for me. There is no way I would have been able to do joinery like this previously. Putting wood together without screws is very attractive and satisfying.

The CT 26 dust collector is fantastic. It's one heck of an expensive vacuum cleaner but boy is it handy as an integral part of this tool system. I also have been very impressed with the Rubin 2 sand paper, it really lasts and lasts.

The sustainers are wildly overpriced (if my wife knew what they cost I'd be in it deep), but boy do they look nice and stack well. I love having all of my tools in one stack I can wheel around on top of the dust collector.

Pat
 
Welcome to the FOG! and great first post.  Let us know what kind of errors you are getting with the MFT/3 and maybe we can give you some suggestions.  Systainers are not expensive - but they are cheaper than the tools that they protect. [scared]

Peter
 
Zarek,

Concerning the squareness of the MFT. I do find it difficult to keep the guide rail square to the fence. Many on the site use various dogs and other after-market jigs on the market and I'm sure they will reply at some point. I, too, have invested in some dogs and other jigs for various tasks. I still like the convenience of the fence/guide rail for cutting wood that is manageable within the limits of the MFT size. It's just kind of what I bought it for. It works well, but sometimes I do struggle with the squareness issue no matter which method I use to square it up. The guide rail gets bumped or something is moved, etc. There are a lot of YouTube videos on this topic and a lot of posts on the FOG. It is a topic that gets discussed a lot. Watch the videos (Peter Halle has a great one.) on squaring, including the videos put out by Festool, and pick the method which makes the most sense to you. Then stick with it. I believe almost all of them will yield positive results. Don't get hung up too much if the amount a cut is off is tiny. The goal is to get a finished product which assembles and looks the way you want it to. I don't know what other table and/or miter saws you owned in the past, but compare the results you get from the TS55 and MFT with the results from those. My comparisons indicate that the results are superior regardless of tiny differences in cut squareness (still less than most others I've used). No saw or tool is perfect and, if you can't see it in the end it's not worth agonizing about.
 
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