MFT/3 fence/miter gauge position?

[alanz]

This might be an odd question, but here goes.

I have an MFT/3 table backed up against a wall in a small room, so there's not really any room to walk around the table.

All the photos I've seen of the table show the miter gauge and fence attached to the "back" (near the hinge of the guide rail support) side of the table.  The photos of the older MFT tables show the fence on the near side of the table.

I know that the table, gauge and fence have been redesigned for the MFT/3, but does anyone here fasten the gauge to the front of the table?

This would make it easy to make adjustments without reaching over the table, and probably wouldn't stab me in the midsection any more than the guiderail would, but it's obviously more intrusive to the user, and takes up space near the front of the table that could be used for non-cutting tasks.

The fence is almost, but not quite symmetrical.  One end of the fence has been milled out at the factory, presumably to extend under the guide rail with thin stock.   So, if I do decide to try using it turned around, I would consider milling a notch on other end to match.

• Has anyone gone from an older MFT, and used to having the fence close to them and continue using this technique on the MFT/3? 
• Is there any good reason to prefer the fence close to the user (not having to reach across the table for narrow board crosscuts, etc.)?
• Is there any compelling reason for using the fence in the far position?

What do you all think? 

 

[Frank-Jan]

The fence in the far position seems the most logical to me, your then sawing towards the fence, and pushing the stock against the fence. With the fence in the "near" position the saw will tend to push the stock away from the fence.
With the fence in the near position you could put the table closer to a wall, but you still need a bit of room for the guide rail (the part that protrudes from the swivel mechanism). You can always use the "clamping elements" horizontal clamps to push the workpiece towards the fence to hold it in place.

Another alternative is to use a different fence than the one that came with the mft3, that is attached to the holes in the top, instead of to the rear-profile.

 

[alanz]

Frank,

That's an interesting theory about pushing the saw towards the fence rather than away from it.

However, it's got me thinking.... the blade rotates clockwise, and if anything, that might argue for keeping the fence close, and having the blade pushing the wood into the fence.

I don't know if it really makes any difference with the grippy rail holding the wood in place.

Good food for thought though.

 

[mwhafner]

I don't have a MFT/3, but I do have the LA650 on my MFT1080 (which is essentially the same fence as the MFT/3).  I use it on the front of the table most of the time, because I also have pretty limited space.  I have not had any issues with boards moving, etc. 

 

[Jimhart]

If you look at the pictures of the MFT/3 angle guide in the current catalogue, I'm pretty sure you'll agree that the rail that connects it to the table is significantly longer than how it ships now. In some of those pictures, it shows the guide mounted at the far end of the table and it can extend to the third or fourth row of holes. Mine can barely reach the second row.

If I tried to mount the one that came with my table to the far side, I'd almost have to lay across the table to crosscut holding the saw with my right hand. I suspect they found things not as stable with the angle guide extended that far.

Jim

 

[alanz]

Good catch!

You're right, the miter gauge I have has a rail that's 12" long, much shorter than the one shown in the photo below

If I position my rail near the same hole position as in the photo, it would be at the very end of the rail, the photo above shows what appears to be another 4" of rail.

This would be useful for positioning at the far side of the table, but would be needlessly intrusive if mounted on the near side.

 

[greg mann]

Try mounting it on the front and see how you like it. Jerry Work uses a front mounted fence quite often and seems to have no issues. Also, when using it on the front the shorter slide will be less intrusive (than the one in the picture would be) and you wont need to reach so far with your saw. I think the rail should hold the work in place without clamping but YMMV.

 

[paul_david_thomas]

I would not be surprised if that angle guide was from a CMS unit - I've got one and use it on my MFT/3 - it's rather usefull...

 

[nickao]

Frank,

I don't know if it really makes any difference with the grippy rail holding the wood in place.

Good food for thought though.

That is a good point I never ever use the fence and the cut piece does not move at all.

I do think if the guide rail did not grip pushing into the fence would be the way to go as even with the rotation of the blade the force of pushing the saw would push the piece away.

With the grip of the guard rail I think it's inconsequential, the piece never moves on me using a fence or not.
So use the fence in front or back, whatever is most convenient at the time.