MFT Addition or MFS Addition

[Haujobbin]

Proud owner of the MFT 1080 for some time now, like others want to grow this table to make it even more useful.
Starting to do a lot of cabinet case work consisting of cutting down 4 x 8 sheets of Plywood.

I have the FS2700 that I use with the ATF55E for the rip cuts
Use the FS1400 for the cross cuts

As many have noted getting the FS2700 lined up requires some tricks, which I have gotton fairly efficient at thanks to all the tips in the FOG. These cuts are uncommon enough that I do not mind spending extra time getting things right. It also allows me the chance to blow the dust of my table saw if things are less than perfect.

For most crosscuts I use the MFT, although I am doing more an more that requires more cross cut capability than the MFT 28" side will allow. So my original idea was to FS1900 and remount to be able to cut on the 45" side. This arrangement begs for additional support on the left side so like others I considered another 1080 mounted to the side in the same lengthwise configuration.

After looking closely at my existing MFT it's apparent that I would still have the limitation of not being able to cross cut full sheets of plywood on the 48".

This forced me to reread Jerry Work's Guide on the MFS, particularly the portion concerning the MFS used to set the guide rails with precision (Page 24)

I'm left with some questions that I think others may have faced and would really appreciate the FOG's input.

1. Could you mount a MFT 800 in a L configuration to an existing 1080 combine with the FS1900 and cut 48" (Assuming extra support to any sheet goods to the left side.) How difficult to remove the 800 if occasional use at a jobsite is required?

2. Would it be better to use the MFS with the Guide rails I already have, break out the Saw horses and pink foam and break down full sheets this way. Is anyone using this method instead, generally speaking how accurate can you get?

It's kind of a Big MFT versus MFS using Jerry's method discussion.

My shop is small so setting up for 4 X 8 cutting always requires some planning.
Portability is a consideration so a MFT800 could often be useful as could the MFS, guide rails and some foam.

Good news either way is just one more Festool purchase.

Thanks
Bob

 

[Corwin]

I have set my MFTs up in various configurations, and you can accommodate a 4' cut with two 1080's connected side-by-side, rather than end-to-end.  Here a 75" rail works nice.

Replace the MFT's fence with another type that mounts atop the rear profile (with the working face against the MFT's perforated top) and you'll have just enough room for that 5' Baltic birch ply.

And for those 8' cuts, if you have the room you can connect three 1080's in an "I" configuration to obtain a table 110" in length.  Oops, you'll need something a little shorter with that short  rail of yours -- okay, you'll either need some spacers between the three 1080's side-by-side, or make a table section to fill-in between two 1080's. 

 

[woodpicker]

I just can not do a 4' cross cut on top of a table. My arm is not long enough. Is this just me???

 

[woodshopdemos]

2. Would it be better to use the MFS with the Guide rails I already have, break out the Saw horses and pink foam and break down full sheets this way. Is anyone using this method instead, generally speaking how accurate can you get?

I will respond to this part only at the moment. I use the 4 x 8 plywood and foam worktable all the time to cut cabinet parts down until I get to drawer components and doors...then I use the MFT. I use two guide rails on the 4 x 8 worktable. I start with the 2700mm for the long cuts and switch to the 1400mm for the cross cuts. I do not use pencil marks, they are too broad. I use the two ruler method for the long cuts to keep the panel sections parallel and on all cross cuts, I use a speed square against the nearer edge.  All the cuts made this way are dead on accurate and ready for assembly. I have developed SOP's over the past 2 years that allow me to do that. You can do it today.  If you haven't done so, take a look at a number of how-to pages. On the Festool sub-menu (http://www.woodshopdemos.com/men-fes.htm) the first 8 items or so are all on this subject.

:

 

[Tinker]

John,
Looking at the above pic reminds me of an important safety feature of the Festool ATF's and TS's.  For years, i used Milwaukee circular saws to cut plywood and dimension lumber for scaffolding and form work.  The lumber was used over and over until it was so splintered or cut to such small pieces it was unusable.  i would NEVER allow my help to stand on the blade side of the saw to cut.  often, we did not even use horses, just layed on ground with a 2x or two to keep out of the dirt or to avoid pinching. If the arms were too short to reach across a sheet to cut, crawl on the sheet to stay on off side of saw away from the blade.  For the saw to hit a knot, nail or be pinched could throw the saw into a very dangerous kickback.  Even with the blade guard in place (and in my crew, it always was>>>>> or else

 

[Dan Uhlir]

    Thanks, for the suggestions, John and Tinker. dan

 

[gkeas]

I was actually thinking of adding an MFT 800 to my 1080.  Can you connect the 800 (length) to the 1080 (width)? 

This would be a good setup for me, and when I need to work longer stock, I could detach them and spread them out.

The specs on the width of the 1080 is slightly larger (in MM) than the 800 length.  The specs in imperial are the same.

Thanks.

 

[Corwin]

I was actually thinking of adding an MFT 800 to my 1080.  Can you connect the 800 (length) to the 1080 (width)? 

This would be a good setup for me, and when I need to work longer stock, I could detach them and spread them out.

The specs on the width of the 1080 is slightly larger (in MM) than the 800 length.  The specs in imperial are the same.

Thanks.

Yes, they will fit together.  The profiles are the same length.

 

[Haujobbin]

Thanks for the input guys.

Corwin,
I'm with Woodpicker in my confusion on how to cut 4' on the 1080 length wise.
Can you confirm that you have removed the factory fence and have put in another type like your description for the Baltic Birch scenario?

John,
You have been a help to my fledgling hobby from day one, my wife would probably reference your website as the place where I learned that the silly saw I bought on ebay was so very useful. You made my cuts more accurate with your careful instructions.

Tinker,
I agree the safety factor is a huge part of my purchases, despite my always careful approach I have a nice scar on my right wrist from a kick back on a table saw that reminds me every day how important Festool's integration of safety really is.

I'm surprised that so far no one has admitted to using Jerry's excellent idea of the MFS and guide rails together on a daily basis.

Again, thanks for the day to day conversation and excellent tips.

 

[Eli]

I was actually thinking of adding an MFT 800 to my 1080.  Can you connect the 800 (length) to the 1080 (width)? 

This would be a good setup for me, and when I need to work longer stock, I could detach them and spread them out.

The specs on the width of the 1080 is slightly larger (in MM) than the 800 length.  The specs in imperial are the same.

Thanks.

Yes, they will fit together.  The profiles are the same length.

I space them apart about two feet, so I can reach the radio mounted on the wall ;D

 

[Corwin]

Thanks for the input guys.

Corwin,
I'm with Woodpicker in my confusion on how to cut 4' on the 1080 length wise.
Can you confirm that you have removed the factory fence and have put in another type like your description for the Baltic Birch scenario?

Sorry for any confusion, but to make a 4' cut (or 5' cut in Baltic Birch) you will need something larger than a single 1080 MFT -- I was referring to using two 1080's connected to obtain an overall size of about 4' wide by 62" deep, where a 75" rail spans the two tables in the 62" direction.  My Incra Track mounted on top of the rear profile with its' working face against the MFT's perforated top just allows me the room to cut the 60" material with little room to spare between the material and front guide rail bracket.  Clearly, a single 1080 is too short for a full 4' cut.

Corwin

 

[sbnx]

Sorry for any confusion, but to make a 4' cut (or 5' cut in Baltic Birch) you will need something larger than a single 1080 MFT -- I was referring to using two 1080's connected to obtain an overall size of about 4' wide by 62" deep, where a 75" rail spans the two tables in the 62" direction.  My Incra Track mounted on top of the rear profile with its' working face against the MFT's perforated top just allows me the room to cut the 60" material with little room to spare between the material and front guide rail bracket.  Clearly, a single 1080 is too short for a full 4' cut.

Corwin
[/quote]

Corwin, can you post a couple of pictures of your setup.  I think it is interesting and am particularly interested in how you have the incra track set up.

Thanks,
Todd