I have a number of pocket screw holes that I need to drill in a shelving project. I wanted to see if I could come up with a way to integrate my Kreg K3 pocket screw jig with my MFT so that I could use the adjustable stop on the MFT's miter rail for the repetitious holes. Here is what I came up with.
After setting up the rail parallel with the longest side of the MFT, I cut two pieces of 1x4 to fit under the K3 to lift it above the rail. Next I drilled two 5/8" holes through a hole in the MFT under each of the 1x4 pieces and then used a flush trim bit to get a rough 20mm hole for each of the 1/2" rod connectors to fit through. There was sufficient clearance for me to include a 1/2" fender washer and 1" long bolt into the near connector (make sure the hole is in the center (left to right) of the 1x4) without further modification. This is not the case for the rear connector as there is no clearance. With the rod connectors in place, I dropped each 1x4 on either side of the rail and used the K3's mounting holes to run screws into each 1x4. From under the MFT I threaded another 1" long bolt and fender washer into each connector. This makes for a sturdy connection, but my connectors were long so I needed to add some filler underneath for everything to tighten fully.
With the K3 in place spanning the rail, I can use the adjustable stop on both sides of the Kreg jig for repetitious holes. If I added more adjustable stops ($41 apiece, ouch!), I could really speed through this project flipping stops up and down as I went along.
[attachthumb=#]
Here is the finished product in action.
[attachthumb=#]
A close up of the jig.
After setting up the rail parallel with the longest side of the MFT, I cut two pieces of 1x4 to fit under the K3 to lift it above the rail. Next I drilled two 5/8" holes through a hole in the MFT under each of the 1x4 pieces and then used a flush trim bit to get a rough 20mm hole for each of the 1/2" rod connectors to fit through. There was sufficient clearance for me to include a 1/2" fender washer and 1" long bolt into the near connector (make sure the hole is in the center (left to right) of the 1x4) without further modification. This is not the case for the rear connector as there is no clearance. With the rod connectors in place, I dropped each 1x4 on either side of the rail and used the K3's mounting holes to run screws into each 1x4. From under the MFT I threaded another 1" long bolt and fender washer into each connector. This makes for a sturdy connection, but my connectors were long so I needed to add some filler underneath for everything to tighten fully.
With the K3 in place spanning the rail, I can use the adjustable stop on both sides of the Kreg jig for repetitious holes. If I added more adjustable stops ($41 apiece, ouch!), I could really speed through this project flipping stops up and down as I went along.
[attachthumb=#]
Here is the finished product in action.
[attachthumb=#]
A close up of the jig.
