mft dilemma all my own doing

[jnug]

Really have created a bit of a dilemma for myself. So looking for some guidance.

I have a work surface that I am just completing that is 48" on a side fully assembled. It has 20mm holes, 96mm spacing....mft style.

But I realize that what it lacks is the mft's extruded aluminum side rails where so much that is mft is attached. Added to the equation, my TS is the 75. I would not give up my 75 for a 55 but the added size of my 48 x 48 really is a help given the added size of the 75. Plus the foundation of the build work surface is the C470 saw horses. all I need do to expand to full 4' x 8' sheet size is remove my surface, separate the horses, drop in a couple of longer 2 x 4s and toss a full sheet across everything.

The problem is that a basic mft/3 is hardly less money than a full blown mft/3. Yet I am not real convinced I have use for the stuff that makes a complete mft/3. The dif is like the cost of a 42" rail which I also have which is somewhat galling under the circumstances.

Does it make any sense to buy a basic at all even given that I already have the rail that comes on a full blown mft/3 and a bunch of the festool clamping and clamping element fixtures and dogs that would work with any mft of this generation.

Since I am really looking for the clamping that comes from having the the extruded side rails of the mft systems, does it make more sense to buy an mft/3-kapex as opposed to either an mft/3 with everything an mft/3 basic even though the Kapex version is smaller still?

I suppose I could argue to myself that the kapex version takes up less room and would give me the side rails that would allow me more use of my Festool clamps and the various bench dogs that I have. I am also supposing that the smaller size of the kapex means it is more stable without adding the expense of the support legs. It is lighter than an mft/3 basic but all of the corner hardware looks the same and the extrusions and legs look like they are made of the same stuff. I am hoping that would mean a kapex version would in fact be more stable.

I really sort of backed myself into this dilemma. But it is all my own doing really. Can't blame anybody but myself for this predicament. So from where I am, what makes the most sense to you guys:
1) get an mft3-kapex
2) get an mft3-basic
3) get a full blown mft3
4) wait and see if something opens up on the used or open box market
5) get a rope and hang myself

 

[semenza]

I suggest you avoid number five. I have heard that it can be detrimental.  [blink]

    Since you are mostly after the side clamping feature. How about just adding a track extrusion to the side of your home made bench? Either an MFT extrusion, 8020, or even just a T-track or two?

Seth

 

[jnug]

Actually I had not gone to deeply into looking at that as the parts did not sound like they were available to US customers. But I will check further. Really only got that impression from folks posting having a difficult time finding them here.

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[semenza]

Actually I had not gone to deeply into looking at that as the parts did not sound like they were available to US customers. But I will check further. Really only got that impression from folks posting having a difficult time finding them here.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Pretty sure you can order the extrusions by calling Festool.

Also I have both regular and Kapex tables.  I never really compared stability. What are you going to be doing on the MFT?  How stable do you need it? Are you talking hand planing ?

Seth

 

[JeromeM]

My workbench doesn't have side rails but I have no problem clamping things to the sides. So far I haven't needed that facility much but will rout T slots if I need them.

Is it that you think you need the clamping? Or do you have specific things you want to do?

 

[rvieceli]

if you have a surface that you are happy with and is working for you, just add a perimeter to your top and put some t tracks in it.

 

[bkharman]

IF, you go with the MFT (not saying you should... I agree with everyone else on finding parts that will work for you) I personally would go with the basic.  I haven't touched the protractor and fence for quite sometime.  I prefer to use a combination of dogs, clamps and jigs... VERY accurate.

1) Find the price of the side extrusions from Festool.  2) Gasp at the price and mumble something about "there has to be a cheaper option" 3) Look around the FOG for some ideas (make sure they will fit your proposed workflow) 4) pick up the parts and add them to that very large table you have made. 5) You will second guess your decision but remember the words of Bobby McFerrin... "Don't worry be happy"

You are all welcome for seeing that song title and having it ring through your head... all... day... long...

Cheers.  Bryan.

 

[jnug]

I did just find the mft profile extrusions at the Festool site. Not sure how they fasten. But if I can find out how they fasten as a perimeter, then I would be in business. Looking at an mft from afar it looks like there is come corner hardware that is run through the extrusions at each extrusion end and that is what holds it all together. I don't know if there are screw holes that would allow the profiles to be screwed into a facing surface.                                                         

Yes I want to be able to use the profile with my various Festool clamps and such and be able to capture workpieces on edge to sand them for example with a power tool.

As for stability and the standard mft/3 tables I would probably get the extra leg supports for a standard mft/3 even if I did not intend doing any hand planning on it.

Anyway..does anybody know how the profiles can be attached? Is it the profiles attaching to each other to make a perimeter or can they be attached to a facing surface by some means....maybe there are screw holes that I am not seeing.

Also, the long profile is like $72.00 ...not bad really if there is a way to attach it or make a perimeter from them.

 

[jnug]

Also, thanks for the suggestion on the basic. I was hoping somebody would suggest that even with the rather light price dif between the basic and the full blown table. Really not sure I would get value out of all the stuff that comes on the full blown table...maybe routing would be easier because you could get the rail up off the table a little bit????? Not even sure that is that much of an advantage.

 

[bkharman]

I did just find the mft profile extrusions at the Festool site. Not sure how they fasten. But if I can find out how they fasten as a perimeter, then I would be in business. Looking at an mft from afar it looks like there is come corner hardware that is run through the extrusions at each extrusion end and that is what holds it all together. I don't know if there are screw holes that would allow the profiles to be screwed into a facing surface.                                                         

Yes I want to be able to use the profile with my various Festool clamps and such and be able to capture workpieces on edge to sand them for example with a power tool.

As for stability and the standard mft/3 tables I would probably get the extra leg supports for a standard mft/3 even if I did not intend doing any hand planning on it.

Anyway..does anybody know how the profiles can be attached? Is it the profiles attaching to each other to make a perimeter or can they be attached to a facing surface by some means....maybe there are screw holes that I am not seeing.

Also, the long profile is like $72.00 ...not bad really if there is a way to attach it or make a perimeter from them.

Inside shot:

Outside shot:

They do attach at the corner so it would make connections easier but you still have to attach it where it stops. A simple bolt or lag would do it. The corner looks nice but not sure if it is necessary.

Price isn't that bad on the extrusion, thanks for sharing. M
Cheers. Bryan.

 

[jnug]

Great photos...thanks!!!

Not sure that corner is necessary either. The corners are $26.00 each. But it looks like each profile would have two diagonally spaced holes at each end and it looks to me like those holes could be used to fix the profile to a facing surface.

or getting two of the corners and one profile might actually make sense as well. You end up with a nice finished corner at each end doing that.

While you can just rely on the holes in the top, it seems to me that the profile just gives you so many more means to use the accessory pieces that Festool is providing us....the clamps and the clamping elements for sure. That one bolt facing directly up into the bottom side of the MDF slab must be in some pocket in that corner because there is no fixture above the surface or even at the surface of the mft top right?

 

[jnug]

OK I just checked with Festool USA. The parts I found are parts they sell. They are out of inventory right now but more are coming.

Now if I pursue it this way, I just have to decide on a method of attachment and whether I want to finish the corners with official Festool corners or not. There is something to be said for those. They would add weight but you would have a bit more of a finished corner and would be less likely to snag yourself on the profile end.

Thought I would report the out of stock current situation to folks here but also report that the parts can at least be bought.

So please do feel free to comment and offer opinion if anybody thinks I should either buy the mft or get the profile as a means of opening up the functionality of all the other Festool clamping accessories I now own.

One more thing worth mentioning....you could just about have two profiles for the cost of one profile and two corners. In fact, if one was willing to use a short span profile on the other side of  the bench, you could have one short profile and one long profile for the cost of one profile and two corners.

All things considered while I am trying to rationalize the corners just the one long profile might make the most sense.

 

[grbmds]

Maybe I missed something, but it wasn't clear to me why you wanted the side extrusions. For doing actual cutting on the table, I'd use something like Rail Dogs with a Festool rail. For clamping, I would guess there are a number of solutions, including the use of Precision Dogs Clamp Plate with Kreg clamps (or other I would gues are out there). Sorry if I missed what you need the extrusions to do.

 

[rvieceli]

I'm coming up short too......

As I recall the only pieces that use the special vee profile in the official MFT sides are the protractor for the fence and the clamp piece that locks the end of the fence in. Everything else uses the t track part of the extrusion. So if you aren't going to use the protractor and the fence, I don't understand why you would want the extra expense of the Festool extrusion.

You could get the clamping functions by using an 80/20 extrusion (series 15 or series 40) or a wooden side with a t track inset in it.

 

[peter halle]

Regarding the extrusions - they do not attach to the top.  You would need to drill the extrusion and countersink the aluminum.  You could achieve a heck of a lot with extrusions on the front and rear.

If you ultimately decide - based on the separate parts cost - that you want to buy the mft - go with the full blown version.  After using it for a period of time you will learn if you want the extra parts and if you don't then sell them.  You probably will recoup the extra costs for those or more.

The side extrusions are extremely versatile.  The issue is that not many look at their possibilities but rather pay attention to the holes in the table.  Sorry, that is my observation after reading tens of thousands of post and I am sticking to it.  [big grin]

Peter

 

[jnug]

The photos appear to show holes diagonally at each ends of the extrusions. Are they not drilled that way when you receive them?

There are any number of things that will fit in that t-channel and it is that T-channel and its functions that you are going to pull out of the profile. The most obvious one that involved an additional popular Festool part is the end of the clamps that will fit in that t-channel and allow you to told workpieces against on end so you can power sand them just as an example.

 

[rvieceli]

There are any number of things that will fit in that t-channel and it is that T-channel and its functions that you are going to pull out of the profile. The most obvious one that involved an additional popular Festool part is the end of the clamps that will fit in that t-channel and allow you to told workpieces against on end so you can power sand them just as an example.

Exactly our point, there's nothing special about that t track profile in the Festool extrusion and there are several different ways to incorporate the same functionality in your DIY table and not be limited by the length of the Festool extrusions.

 

[Clweed]

I purchased two extrusions and the guide rail brackets from Festool. Works great!

 

[jnug]

Clearly you used the drill and countersink method that Paul was talking about. I see you have the bracket for the rail attached to that short side profile as well.

Thanks for posting.

 

[jnug]

Maybe getting at least one actual mft makes sense for me after all. The height of an mft is such that if I have one of those, I can configure my home made version to be the same height. It would not have the neat, purpose built connectors for joining two mft tables. But I could mate them by still getting at least one of the profiles as I had intended anyway and the table connectors which join at the profiles anyway. I could have anything from a 57" wide to 81" wide by 43" long work area depending on how I configure it.

In fact the mini table profile would be a perfect size for what I have in mind. So I would save a little money there getting a shorter profile.