MFT Hole Pattern Technique

tbellemare

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One of my customers came over to buy a FS 1400/2-LR 32 and some Clamping Elements. He had recently bought a used OF 1400 and a 20mm bit to make a hole pattern in a piece of MDF that he wanted to use as a tabletop.

We talked it over and I decided to loan him my LR 32 Set and Parallel Guides with the logic that the combination would be the fastest, easiest, and smartest way to get an accurate pattern without using a CNC. I have CNC capabilities but not that big. Anyway, it worked out about as perfectly as can be detected. Here are some images:

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Tom
 
I'd love to know if anyone has simply used their current MFT top as a template ... and if they have, did they manage not to damage the tolerances of the original top's holes?

I'd probably aim to make two at a time to capitalise on the effort if the plunge depth permitted.

Kev.
 
Kev said:
I'd love to know if anyone has simply used their current MFT top as a template ... and if they have, did they manage not to damage the tolerances of the original top's holes?

I'd probably aim to make two at a time to capitalise on the effort if the plunge depth permitted.

Kev.

Making an MFT-Style Top for Workbench
 
Corwin said:
Kev said:
I'd love to know if anyone has simply used their current MFT top as a template ... and if they have, did they manage not to damage the tolerances of the original top's holes?

I'd probably aim to make two at a time to capitalise on the effort if the plunge depth permitted.

Kev.

Making an MFT-Style Top for Workbench

Doh!!! ... and thanks  [embarassed]

Thanks exactly the right answer to my question.
 
Tom, how do you line up the next row of holes? I see that for the first line you use a stop on the parallel guide but how do you make sure that following individual rows are evenly spaced? By the pencil markings on the worktop?
 
There's more than one way to make that distance consistent and, ideally, at 96mm. In this case, the scales on the parallel guides were used because that wasn't as critical as having them square.

One option is to have a 96mm gauge and use it between each row of holes. Yet another option is to use multiple gauges at increments of 96mm. Of course, you could just use marks on the work piece like you suggested.

Tom
 
I made a workbench, larger than my MFT/3, using the MFT top as a template. 

I marked out where the holes would go, and drilled 13mm holes with a handheld drill.  I then clamped this on top of the MFT and used a half inch router bit with a bottom bearing to enlarge the holes to 20mm.  I used 20mm dowels to locate the bench to the template together so I could step the template across and make a top larger than the original.

It worked well.

Andrew
 
Kev said:
I'd love to know if anyone has simply used their current MFT top as a template ... and if they have, did they manage not to damage the tolerances of the original top's holes?

I'd probably aim to make two at a time to capitalise on the effort if the plunge depth permitted.

Kev.

I intend to make an MDF top to extend my MFT/3. I bought a 20mm bit that is intended to be used in the Blum hole-boring setup, but I intend to use it either in my OF1400 or in a hand-held drill.

I'm not sure if either method will work well, and maybe someone else could advise me.
 
Roseland said:
I made a workbench, larger than my MFT/3, using the MFT top as a template. 

I marked out where the holes would go, and drilled 13mm holes with a handheld drill.  I then clamped this on top of the MFT and used a half inch router bit with a bottom bearing to enlarge the holes to 20mm.  I used 20mm dowels to locate the bench to the template together so I could step the template across and make a top larger than the original.

It worked well.

Andrew

I also did something like this. By using a 20mm Forstner bit to start things off there was absolutely no damage to the original MFT 3 top. I only made 5mm deep cuts with the template attached. I then removed the MFT 3 top (template) and finished the holes off. I wish that I had a 20mm spiral cutter for my OF 2200 but I just kept going with the poor old Forstner bit which was in a bad way by the end.

Peter
 
Before I used the method I described, I tried using a Forstner bit, but I found the holes were not absolutely vertical.  Using a router and bottom bearing cutter they were spot on, and the bearing didn't mark the template.

A :-)
 
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