MFT/MDF Thickness

[DIY WoodWerx]

Thinking of making my own MFT/3 style workbench using 3/4 MDF top.  Can I use 2 pieces of MDF glued together as a top and still be able to use the clamps and accessories with no issues?  Or will it be too thick to use 20mm clamps and bench dogs, etc?

 

[ben_r_]

Yea some of the accessories will not fit through the holes if you make it any thicker than 3/4". Now, if you decide youre not going to use those incompatible accessories, no worries.

 

[DIY WoodWerx]

Any recommendations on which 20 mm bit to use to make the holes?  I will most likely be doing the holes with a hand drill and some sort of jig for alignment.

 

[joinercp]

Don't use a board thicker than 18/19mm or some of the accessories will not work. We made some bespoke tops using a 20mm forstner bit

 

[drax]

Personally I'd use a router as it will be a lot cleaner and quicker. I do mine with the old top as a template and a bearinged plunge cutter. Makes a good clean hole. Got two stored from previously but done this way makes the tops way too expendable. Much cheaper than a replacement 1080 tops tho.

 

[WastedP]

I used a bronze bushing as a drill bit guide to remove material prior to plunge routing holes with a template.  If I had it to do over again, I'd just pay to have them CNC machined.

If you must run a clamp through a dog hole deeper than 19 mm, the Armor Tool clamps have posts of varying lengths.

 

[Stone Message]

The Festool clamps designed to work with the MFT3 work brilliantly with 18 mm (3/4") MDF. They will not work with anything more than 20 mm.

Most work bench designs manage perfectly well with 18 mm tops. Using high quality boards, such as Medite MR (Moisture Resistant) improves strength as it has a very dense (and hard) outer layer on both sides of the board. This makes it stiffer and also adds to the surface strength in bench applications. It also drills well when using the purpose designed 20 mm cutter that comes with the Parf Guide System - the waste comes off as long shavings with very little dust and leaving a perfectly formed hole.

If a bench design require even stiffer surface material then a bracing spine would be sensible as it would allow the majority of 20 mm holes to be used normally and need only slightly hinder a few.

Peter

 

[Bohdan]

I made tops out of 25 mm ply and used a rounding over bit on the bottom of the holes to enable the Festool clamps to fit.

 

[Midnight Man]

Any recommendations on which 20 mm bit to use to make the holes?  I will most likely be doing the holes with a hand drill and some sort of jig for alignment.

I am in the exact same situation as you are, and have done quite some research into how to create my own MFT workbench - maily because I don't need portability, and I am keen on making it a bit larger than the standard MFT.

A gentleman by the name of Peter Parfitt has a set of plans for an MFT style workbench, and I would point you in the direction of his YouTube channel, where there is much other good viewing.

As far as lining up and creating the holes in your MFT worktop, I have, after much research, settled on the Parf Guide system (you can find this at Lee Valley or Axminster tools).  Again, Peter's YouTube channel has an in depth guide on using this wonderful invention.

You'll find his channel and resources here:

 

[Stone Message]

It is very kind of [member=60844]Midnight Man[/member] to mention the PGS. It has prompted me to create a playlist of the key videos associated with the product.


I am sorry that Lee Valley appear to be out of stock most of the time - they are taking back orders and these are being satisfied by stock as it arrives. The rate of delivery across The Pond will improve now that Lee Valley and Axminster appreciate the demand in North America.

Meanwhile Axminster have increased the capacity of their production machine shop and gone onto a two shift 18 hour day.

Many thanks.

Peter

 

[Bob D.]

I made tops out of 25 mm ply and used a rounding over bit on the bottom of the holes to enable the Festool clamps to fit.

I was thinking that might work, or plunge a chamfering bit centered on the underside of the hole to create the relief for the clamp.