MFT - problems? Tips&Tricks?

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DzordanoBruno

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2015
Messages
157
Hello Gentlemen,
I would like to buy a MFT - COMPLET set table and have few questions for You:

1. Have You any problems with MFT? Flatness of table, bent track, worst quality of some parts....

2. When i cut sheet 18mm plywood, than12mm - is necessary chceck/sett the table to perfect square again? Or when i change thickness stay table perfectly square?

3. Have You any tips how tune(tunning) the table for more better results? Make it sens buy a SLOP STOP for guide rail?

Thats all. Thank You guys.
 
You will need to get an known true square to square up the MFT. Woodpeckers and Anderson plywood have pretty good squares.
 
No serious problems. My MFT table tops have sagged a bit over time. If this bothers you, you can easily flip the tops. Some people have installed braces under the tops. The sag on my tops is minimal and doesn't affect what I use them for.

I've never found a need for the protractor that came with the table.

A really really good big square and a pair of Qwas dogs is best for squaring up the fence. My fence has not needed resquaring for years. Overtime, I check it, dead on. I use a Woodpeckers MFT square, but any good square with 18" legs will do. Warning, many squares are not square. Before the MFT square was available, I used the Woodpecker framing square.

No tuning necessary other than squaring the fence.

I like Qwas dogs and use 8 frequently.

I found the Slopstop to be a great addition to the rail stability.

I bought braces for the MFT legs. It's wasn't rock solid. A built an extension for a heavy vise. It has a pair of steel legs and totally fixed the wobble problem.

I do not have to resquare after cutting different thicknesses of wood.

Be careful when setting the tracks depth. It's easy to cut too deep of cut the side rails.
 
DzordanoBruno said:
1. Have You any problems with MFT? Flatness of table, bent track, worst quality of some parts....

No.  My table has stayed flat enough to not impact anything I use it for.  You can always turn it over or an a brace if really worried about it as previously mentioned.

2. When i cut sheet 18mm plywood, than12mm - is necessary chceck/sett the table to perfect square again? Or when i change thickness stay table perfectly square?

I don't.  I check mind from time to time but it seems to stays square until I take off the fence to utilize the whole top.

3. Have You any tips how tune(tunning) the table for more better results? Make it sens buy a SLOP STOP for guide rail?

I don't use a Slop Stop but have heard good things about this add-on.  For tuning the table I use a Woodpeckers square for setup and then use dogs from time to time on certain cuts.

Thats all. Thank You guys.
Click to expand...
 
Peter: Yes, I am from Czech Republic :) And I am very happy for FOG! I my country people have a big problem to share knowlege.
And iam sorry for my english, isnt good - somtimes i dont understand :(

SoonerFan: Thank You answer, it is very helpful.

Jobsworth: Thank You. I bought absolutely top notch, luxury mechanic level. Czech manufacture Kinex. So, first thing for MFT is done! :)))
 
To be honest I wouldn't even bother with the MFT.  I had one for awhile and sold it after building a MFTC.  I wish I would have looked more closely at the complaints people had about it. 

1) It's not stable.  You basically have to purchase the braces, which are an additional $80 to stiffen it up.  They really should be included with the table as many consider them a necessity. 
2) You have to square the rail every time you adjust the height.  The engineering on that part of the table is poor and they designed it that way for cost saving reasons I'm sure.  I'd like to see a keyed dovetail design out of aluminum that ensured everything stays square as you raise and lower the rail.  The way it's made now it racks and you'll go from being dead on at 1/2" cut height, then raise it to cut 3/4" and be noticeably off.  Then you have to resquare.  It's a major pain.  Not only that but it develops slop so then you have to go out and buy another accessory part called "SLOP STOP" to try and combat that.  It's insane.
3) There's a reason Parf dogs, precision dogs and qwas/rail dogs are so popular.  No one uses the stock flip down rail/fence/protractor setup.  If you're not going to use the flip down rail/fence/protractor you're essentially paying $700 for a piece of MDF with a proprietary aluminum extrusion frame.
4) The tops sag.  Few people even talk about this but many people notice it.  You'll see it brought up in threads and when someone points it out other people will respond with "oh ya, I guess my does sag, but it's okay with me, you can always flip it over".  Seriously?  The table offers a nice large work surface but it's made out of MDF and  only supported around the perimeter.  At those dimensions you're gonna get some sagging.  To combat it people suggest rigging up a support beam on the underside of the table?  Really, another modification?

I really wanted to like my MFT3.  Unfortunately I came to the conclusion that it's not worth it, IMO atleast.  After the necessary upgrades the MFT3 is almost $800 in the US and you'll still need to make modifications.  That's mind blowing to me.  I think there are a lot better options out there.  I'm sooo much happier with my MFTC and it was many, many times cheaper.  I even like the MFTSlab concept better than the MFT3.  My suggestion would be to look at some of the other options.  I wish someone would have broken it down like this for me before making the purchase. 
 
DzordanoBruno said:
1. Have You any problems with MFT? Flatness of table, bent track, worst quality of some parts....
Click to expand...
None I can think of, other than I only have one...  [wink]

DzordanoBruno said:
2. When i cut sheet 18mm plywood, than12mm - is necessary chceck/sett the table to perfect square again? Or when i change thickness stay table perfectly square?
Click to expand...
I've never had that problem. You can get a little "racking" in the rail, but I have mine deliberately set at a slight offset so that it always references off one side of the "key" on the front unit. I use a "slop stop" but only because it was recommended some time ago. With the rail offset as it is, I don't think it actually makes a huge difference if I'm honest. My cuts are square when I change settings for different material thicknesses.

DzordanoBruno said:
3. Have You any tips how tune(tunning) the table for more better results? Make it sens buy a SLOP STOP for guide rail?
Click to expand...
As above, artificially introduce a little "racking" in the rail so that you are always referencing off one side of the front "key" and as Ron mentioned, make sure you're using a good square when you initially set it up.

I've not found stability to be an issue for how I use it, and I certainly don't need the braces for the work that I do. Maybe if I was hand planing or similar, but if I was doing that, I'd probably want a more stable platform anyway and would look to introduce a "proper" woodworking bench.

Bear in mind that although a lot of people (me included) have the MFT pretty much permanently set up in a particular location, they are designed to be used as a mobile solution and that brings with it some compromises with regard to stability - hence the reason you can buy the stabilising bars if you choose to. For most people, they're not really needed. If you doubt that, search Festool MFT on Google, click on Images, and see just how many photos of real shops (as opposed to product marketing photos) show them in place.

I do use the "stock flip down rail/fence" setup, but not the protractor. But I also use Qwas dogs and an Incra fence with Shop Stop too. It's all about what's most appropriate to the task I'm performing. Sometime I use the rail, sometimes I use the Qwas dogs, sometimes I use my Incra fence and Shop Stop. They are each beneficial for different tasks and I like the versatility each gives me.
 
Like a lot of things, there are compromises. I started out as a brand new woodworker with the MFT as is. But then I added/modified it. I found the cross braces don't really add enough stability, plus the plastic pieces broke on me. At first, I was obsessed with the set up and did everything every time to ensure squareness. It did seem to vary a little, but I got dialed in and was good. Then I added Precison Dogs to the fence and used those to align the rail and fence. Now, I've built a cart for it, removed the legs and mounted the MFT. The whole cart s on leveling casters because my garage has a serious slope to it, but the table is now dead flat. I don't use the protractor as I find it easier/faster to use my miter saw. I rarely use the fence and instead use the dogs and the rail. I've also added the Precision Parallel guides and use them all the time for crosscutting and rip cuts. I found that without the fence, I gain just enough space to let me crosscut most things. Oh, I also have a slop stop. I like my setup. Ideally, I suppose, it'd be nice to replace the MDF top with something sturdier but keep the accuracy of the holes and the ability to use the rails clamping, which I use a lot.
 
I've had an MFT for 18 months.
Like mentioned previously, the table is mean't as a mobile option and this is how I use it.

1. Have You any problems with MFT? Flatness of table, bent track, worst quality of some parts....

I have not had any problems that I can think of. Flatness seems fine, track has not bent - just make sure it is sitting on the wood and not slightly above it, no complaints with the quality of parts.

2. When i cut sheet 18mm plywood, than12mm - is necessary chceck/sett the table to perfect square again? Or when i change thickness stay table perfectly square?

I set the table up a lot as I am always moving it around, I mainly use it for cutting ply and have never noticed a problem with changing for thickness and going out of square. Perhaps because I am always moving it about, I have got used to treating it gently and not leaning too hard on it, which might twist the table slightly, because I cannot always get it level even with the adjustable leg.

3. Have You any tips how tune(tunning) the table for more better results? Make it sens buy a SLOP STOP for guide rail?

I have not used a Slop Stop, but can see that after a lot of use it will help to take out any movement, perhaps because I am constantly setting it up, it is never in exactly the same spot so doesn't wear in the same place.

In general I love the portability.
If I wanted something permanently in a workshop, I would go for a more stable and heavier table. But as a mobile option it is great. I haven't fitted stabilisers, as I don't want to add more weight and honestly have not felt the need for them.
The clamping options are the big plus to me when I am gluing or sanding on site, you can use the holes or the frame rails.

Hope that helps.
Mark

 
1. Have You any problems with MFT? Flatness of table, bent track, worst quality of some parts....
    No real problems.  Table stays flat for years, even though I leave heavy stuff on it for long times.  By the the mdf is pretty well
    chewed up and I am happy to replace the mdf.  Never had a bent track.  I recheck square after I have moved the mft or after long use.  Seldom needs adjusting.

2. When i cut sheet 18mm plywood, than12mm - is necessary chceck/sett the table to perfect square again? Or when i change thickness stay table perfectly square?
No need.

3. Have You any tips how tune(tunning) the table for more better results? Make it sens buy a SLOP STOP for guide rail?
Like others, I find myself using the dogs more often than the fence.  i use to offset method for squaring so that the rail will be tight
against the holder.  Never felt the need for slop stop.  Look into the clamping elements for sanding.  A second mft is a game changer.  I often trim 12 foot rolls of veneer with 2 mfts connected by a 12mm plywood bridge.  I might make a custom mft to create an L-shape configuration next time I build a large piece.
 
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