MFT top material

[bermuda]

Hi, I've bought some long Festool extrusions and am going to make a MFS table. It seems that the custom tops
I've seen on this site have been all made with mdf to match what Festool supplies. I've bought a Festool top to get the hole layout but have a 1" piece of plywood that I'd like to use as the top. Any reason why that's not a good idea? The top is going to be 31" wide and 80" long.
Thanks
Rob

 

[Corwin]

For one, I do not think the shorter (120mm) Festool FS Clamps will fit into holes that are 1" deep.

 

[Ned]

For one, I do not think the shorter (120mm) Festool FS Clamps will fit into holes that are 1" deep.

If the 120mm FS clamps don't fit, neither will the 300 or the FS-HZ 160 quick clamps.  Items that bolt through the table, like the Clamping Elements and the Angle Stop, may require longer bolts and big washers.

If you make your own top, you'll need a 20mm bit.  If you use Festool's, that's $45.  If you decide to go with 3/4" holes (19mm), then none of the Festool clamps will fit, although you have a wide choice of other products.

What about the brackets that attach the guide rail?

Suggestion:  Buy a complete MFT 1080, and add the pieces you've already bought to make your jumbo table. 

 

[bermuda]

Regarding the holes, I'll be using a top bearing pattern bit and a plunge router as suggested on this forum. Thanks for the tips regarding the clamps not fitting the 1" thickness. I've got lots of 3/4 ply also what would be the problem using that? The brackets are available without buying a mfs table and I've recieved that kit.
Thanks
Rob

 

[woodshopdemos]

Regarding the holes, I'll be using a top bearing pattern bit and a plunge router as suggested on this forum. Thanks for the tips regarding the clamps not fitting the 1" thickness. I've got lots of 3/4 ply also what would be the problem using that? The brackets are available without buying a mfs table and I've recieved that kit.
Thanks
Rob

Rob,
  I don't know the exact reference you are thinking of, but I have seen people get into trouble with a plunge router and a top bearing bit. If the hole is 20mm, you had better use a 1/4" or 3/8" bit and be sure to plunge all the way so that the bearing is against the pattern before you start routing the actual hole. There isnt all that much room for error inthis setup.  Purchasing the replacement tops might be cheaper and safer.

 

[Corwin]

   ... Purchasing the replacement tops might be cheaper and safer.

  ... and the resulting top will be MDF which is often chosen for this task.  MDF is probably a little more stable (dimensionally) than the plywood you have and will most likely be flatter.

Corwin

 

[bermuda]

Yes, the mdf is definately more stable. Since the top will be easily replaceable I think I'll go with plywood at this point. Plywood will span a greater distance and stay straighter without sag over time, that's why I make my cabinets out of plywood, also I think it will require fewer supports underneath.  I've read of alot ideas on this forum for tables and have used some to start a mfs for myself. I'll share some photos when I get done with it.
Thanks
Rob

 

[mysterium]

Hi Rod,

I'd check to see if 3/4" baltic birch plywood is available.  Last I checked it was about $65 for a 4 x 8 in my area.

jim

 

[Corwin]

Rob,

You may elect to use either the 3/4" or 1" plywood.  I mentioned earlier that the shorter clamps will not fit into a 1" deep hole.  The smaller clamp would fit if the bar was a little longer.  But the longer FS clamps will fit.  The MFT's fence along with the clamping elements (great clamps!) will also work -- but the hand-nuts that mount from below are just about too short for use with the thicker plywood.  If these nuts are in fact too short to get started, it would be an easy thing to correct.

Best of luck with your top!
Corwin

 

[putttn]

I'm new to all this and hate to ask a really dumb question, but what does MFS stand for?

 

[Tinker]

I think in this case, MFS was a mistook that nobody has bothered (including me) to correct.  What they are talking about is MFT, the top for the Festool bench that looks like swiss cheese.  MFS is actually a template system.  you can look it up On Bob Marino's site and see what you want to know.

CARRRRREEE FUUULLLL. You are heading for the brink.  Don't say i have not warned you :
Tinker

 

[Matthew Schenker]

I think in this case, MFS was a mistook that nobody has bothered (including me) to correct.  What they are talking about is MFT, the top for the Festool bench that looks like swiss cheese.  MFS is actually a template system.  you can look it up On Bob Marino's site and see what you want to know.

I noticed right away that the author said "MFS" instead of "MFT," but I try not to be not-picky about things.

However, for accuracy sake, we should probably edit the name of this subject.  When people search for information, especially new customers, we want to reduce confusion.  Which is interesting timing, because I just activated a forum option that allowed you to edit your subject titles.

So, Bermuda, go ahead and change MFS to MFT.

You can start another discussion on MFS!

Matthew

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I suggest you drill a 20 mm hole through a 1" thick piece of wood and confirm that a Festool L-shaped clamp will fit through it.  To insert a Festool L-shaped clamp, it has to be rotated through much of 90 degrees.  At some thickness (depth of the hole, length of the cylindrical bore) you will not be able to insert the clamp due to interference of the clamp legs with the sides of the hole due to the fact that the bottom (shorter) leg is at approximately a right angle relative to the main leg.  Making the hole diameter larger would allow use of a thicker top, but then other Festool (and other brand) clamps and accessories with a cylindrical post will be a sloppy fit and may not work properly.

I recommend you read and consider following the methods used by Jerry Work in constructing his large MFT mostly from components available from Festool.  He frequently uses it as a reference/assembly table so it has to have a sturdy, stable, flat top.  His description of that table is posted at the Festool USA website.  I have not checked to see if it is posted in or linked in this group.

Dave R.

Dave R.

 

[Corwin]

Well, I am wrong about these clamps fitting into a 1" hole.  Prior to my first responce here, I did check out how the clamps fit my table (3/4") and I measured any remaining room at the bottom as I placed the clamps into the hole.  But, today I found some 1" scrap, drilled the 20mm hole and found that the Festool clamps will not fit.

So, best stick with a 3/4" top.  Sorry for my mistake. 

Corwin

 

[Ned]

Well, I am wrong about these clamps fitting into a 1" hole.

Hi Corwin,

Thanks for posting the correction.  I was sure that I was right, but was going to run a test to confirm it.  You got there first.  Thanks again.

Ned

 

[Corwin]

Well, I really checked closely and I tried to measure what little extra space (if you can call it that) there is, but I truly should have found the 1" material and drilled the hole to see for sure. 

I do understand Rob's desire to go with the larger material for the top.  If the underside of the hole also gets a slight countersink to allow for the clamps, you might be in business -- that is, if you are also willing to make adjustments with the screw-on portion of the fence and clamping elements.

Sorry I messed up,
Corwin

 

[bermuda]

Thanks for checking guys, I haven't bought any festool clamps yet to do that myself. I'll be using the 3/4 ply, with a finish. It's going to be used as a test height and depth, since I need two, one for assembly and one for cutting. Since I get large projects to do often if it works out with the height of both being the same it will be great.
Right now my assembly table is 4' wide and if I'm working on a base cabinet it's not convenient since I have to slide  it from side to side sometimes and that means getting tools out of the way and walking around. So either I'm lazier or am getting smarter about being more efficient.

 

[Jim Pieri]

The easiest way to duplicate the festool top I've found, is to use the 1010 with the festool 20 mm bit on slow speed, and place the mdf sheet below the 1080 top which is used as a template. Then plunge down a bit for each hole, and you can remove the 1080 "pattern", line up the router with the partial holes, and proceed through the piece you're trying to create. Use another piece of MDF below so you don't get any chipout of the bottom surface. By doing this, and only plunging partway through the backer board, you have another piece ready to drill out at a later date without having to go through the MFT 1080 template again. The reason I didn't go through the top with the 1080 template in place is chip removal, (it may not be an issue though).
JP