MFT Top

[promark747]

When I had a couple of MFT/3, I reinforced the tops from underneath with a couple of 80/20 extrusions that I precisely cut and connected to the MFT rails with t-nuts/brackets.  This kept the tops flat no matter how much weight I put on them.  The only downside was that occasionally the extrusions would interfere with the Festool clamps and I'd have to select a different hole to use.

 

[Svar]

The only downside was that occasionally the extrusions would interfere with the Festool clamps and I'd have to select a different hole to use.

It might help if your support beam was something like pictured with gaps for clamps:
[attachimg=1]

I agree with Peter. It's a disposable surface, I wouldn't go too fancy with it.

 

[Bob D.]

Hi I am Don I work at and handle the Festool at Anderson Plywood.
We have Phenolic ply. It's on a Baltic Birch core.
We make the MFT squares out of it.
We tried making MFT tops out of it but the phenolic is very slick.
And it was hard to keep things from moving ..........
It Looked cool but ............ Not sure if phenolic is the right stuff .

Thanks Don good to know.

 

[Oldwood]

I have a cnc and cut tops for other woodworkers. I weighed the Festool top and compared to a top I made out of Plum Creek MDF the Festool top was a little lighter so I would say not HDF.

I have not had problems with tops bowing myself.

FWIW
Gerry

 

[Roseland]

A bit of research suggests birch ply may have a surface that is more damage-prone than MDF; the surface of MDF is very hard indeed.  This doesn't show up much in Janka tests because the ball used is too large in diameter.

And the creep (sag) some of see in MDF is exacerbated by humidity cycling.  MDF, even in humid environments is fairly stable, but if it changes regularly from a dry to a moist environment and back sag can be two to three time as high.

Moisture-resistant boards (like Medite and Valchromat) are much better than plain MDF.

My workshop is an unheated double garage and I usually work with the roller door open, so follows the outside humidity closely.  It probably doesn't help that I'm only about 300 yards from the sea!

Andrew

 

[Cheese]

Has anyone used or thought about using Richlite? It's a resin/paper product that was originally used for industrial tooling because it was dimensionally stable and easily machined. I have several cutting boards that are used constantly and that I throw in the dishwasher.

It's also used as an outdoor siding/cladding material so it's very resistant to water/humidity. Being a wood product it can be machined with ordinary carbide wood working tools.

I have no idea what it costs but I know it's not cheap.

 

[Svar]

I have no idea what it costs but I know it's not cheap.

Green Building Supplies sells Richlite for countertops. 3/4" 4'x8' is $1200.  [scratch chin] I think I'll stick with MDF.

 

[Cheese]

Green Building Supplies sells Richlite for countertops. 3/4" 4'x8' is $1200.  [scratch chin] I think I'll stick with MDF.

Wow...that's right up there. [jawdrop]

It seems like they priced themselves out of the market.