MFT: While you've got it apart...

[Ned]

Here's a simple addition that will increase the utility of your MFT by providing secure, non-protruding attachment points.  The change doesn't interfere with the usual use of the MFT in any way.

Disassemble the MFT frame and add nuts to the inside channel used by the corner bolts and also to the channel on the underside of all four sides.  I'd use at least 2 per channel per side, and 4 or more would be better.  These nuts will be captive after the MFT is reassembled but free to slide back and forth.

Use M8 square nuts if you're keeping it metric.  5/16-18 square nuts are also a good fit.  Hex nuts do not provide as much clamping area or resistance to being turned.

Why would you do this?  What use would it be?  I say that the modification is so cheap and so easy when you're building your super-MFT, just do it.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Great idea, Ned.  I noticed those channels last evening as I was making the "TS 55 holster" to be mounted to the outside channel of the side rails - another great idea I learned from this group!

IMO, the major deficiency of the MFT is its lack of rigidity when subjected to periodic side loading, e.g. when trying to hand plane or chisel a workpiece.  I think the MFT could be made much more rigid against racking by (1) adding X-braces extending from a side rail to the X-member of the legs attached to the opposite side rail and (2) adding simple panels or cross-shaped braces to each pair of folding legs.

Among other potential uses, those nuts added to the inside and underside channels of the side rails of the MFT will facilitate attachment of an anti-racking brace extending diagonally from one side channel to the cross-bar of the pair of legs attached to the opposite side rail of the table. 

Although I have not tried this yet, I am thinking that the brace itself could be made using one of those twist-to-lock telescoping aluminum extension poles, or a leg from a camera tripod. One end would be fitted with a bracket to connect it to the inside or the under side of a side rail (using the nuts installed as you suggested) and the other end of the brace connected to the X-member of the pair of folding legs attached to the opposite side rail of the MFT.

A camera tripod might be an even better idea than those telescoping aluminum extension poles, and might be less work to adapt its legs to become a brace for an MFT leg, or to support an extension table for an MFT.  Each leg of my inexpensive camera tripod has three nested, telescoping U-shaped sections, the upper two of which are equipped with simple cam locks.  No twisting is involved to adjust the length of a leg; simply pull up the lock lever, slide the leg extension to the length you want, then press the lever back into its locked position.  The bottom end of each leg is fitted with a threaded stud onto which is screwed a rubber foot.  The upper end of each leg has a hinged joint with a spring that is biased to hold the three legs together when the tripod is folded into for storage/transport.  Hmmm ...

What is an MB nut?  Is it a Machine Bolt nut, i.e. square nut?  Thus far, I have been choosing 5/16" x 18tpi T-bolts for use with my MFT side rail channels.  They fit very well, slide easily and provide extended contact area with the aluminum channels to help reduce the risk of bending the channels.  Noticeably less slop than when 1/4" x 20tpi bolts are used.

Dave R.

 

[Ned]

What is an MB nut?

That's M8, em-eight.  A metric nut.

 

[Eli]

I wrote a suggestion on a Tablesaw  thread, perhaps it's better here.

Has anyone tried putting a d-ring or padeye on the floor central to the MFT and sending a turnbuckle and wire cable to just under top, centered on each short extrusion end, to an eye bolt threaded on to a hex head in the extrusion? Not a single wire cable, but one for each side. Kick out the legs and cinching down should take out the wobble. It's easier on a wood floor obviously, but would work on concrete too. No pix cause I haven't done it yet.

"Step back, wanna quote myself, haaiiiiiiii" - James Brown

 

[Ned]

OK, OK, your idea. 

For really heavy duty use, like your guy wires, you might want to get some Festool parts.  Check out the parts diagrams for the MFT.  These long rectangular nuts would give the broadest possible area. 

I don't have a Festool table connector (484455), but if the set(grub) screw holes are threaded M6 or preferably M8, it would be a substantial ready-made "nut".

Ned

 

[Eli]

I guess you might not really need leg rigidity on a jumbo MFT tho, having built it into a stiffer, heavier frame. Maybe combining the two ideas (for a 1080), a turnbuckle with a piece of threaded rod across to each leg might work. Use a pipe hanger bracket or some such creature on the bottom cross brace.

 

[Corwin]

OK, OK, your idea.  
I don't have a Festool table connector (484455), but if the set(grub) screw holes are threaded M6 or preferably M8, it would be a substantial ready-made "nut".

Ned

Those are M8 set screws in the table connectors.  A M6 screw will fit in the Guide Rail Stops.  Either Festool part would work, but some types of M6 screws will require a 3mm wrench -- and there is no 3mm wrench on the Toolie Tool.

Corwin

 

[Ned]

In the US, packets of 4 5/16-18 square nuts are available at Lowe's.  The fastener brand is Hillman.