MFT3

[redtailvt]

Hello All,

Was wondering the verdict on buying versus building a MFT table. The MFT3 is amazing but limited by size, as you know. Wonder how many folks have built a larger table themselves. I have seen a few "blueprints" for some. With a track saw and larger track seems one could make the larger cuts and then move to the MFT3. Pros, cons, etc.

Thank You,
Andrew

 

[grbmds]

Probably depends on your needs, the resources available to obtain a custom sized MFT like top, and your willingness to spend the time to make one. I am satisfied with my MFT for use within the confines of my workshop, for what I use it for, and it capabilities (which I haven't reached the limits of yet). However, if you regularly need a larger surface for making longer cuts or assembling larger pieces (which I can do on other surfaces in my shop), then the custom size would likely be a better option for you.

 

[Greg M]

When I first looked at the MFT3 I said it was too small and not sturdy.  However, I finally bought one and it was sturdy enough and large enough for most tasks.  It also turned out to be one of the best purchases I've made. 

I've since sold them (2) and built two for the shop and an MFTC for site work.  After using the MFT3 for a while I learned what aspects of the table I used and which ones I didn't need.  The money I got for 1 of the MFT3's bought the materials for both of the tables I built and for the MFTC.  The money for the 2nd MFT3 went into new tools.

If you use all of the functions of the MFT3 then it's well worth the money (even though it's overpriced!).  If you basically only use the holes in the top then it's far more economical to build one.  I found that the hole pattern was all I really needed.

 

[Birdhunter]

I have two MFTs linked together with an extension for a heavy vise. This set up replaces a couple of larger homebult tables.

My take is that the tracksaw feature and the hole pattern make the MFTs well worth the cost especially paired with Festool clamps and Qwas dogs.

If I'm breaking down sheet goods, I use saw horses and a long rail with a TS55 then move to either the MFT or the table saw.

I'm building an "island" using an MFT top laid over a torsion box foundation. It will give me more MFT-like work space, but I would not favor it over a real MFT.

 

[redtailvt]

Thank you all very much for the responses. I'm new to this site and green. Yes I am hooked What an invaluable source for a newbie like me. I've done a fair amount of construction but not real wood working. Really love it.

Thanks again.
Andrew

 

[jnug]

I think using an mft3 as a cornerstone and building around it in a modular fashion can give you more and more flexible work surfaces at a reasonable price. But at the end of the day, I agree that these 20mm holes and the growing variety of accessories being developed to work with them really accounts for a great deal of functionality. So you could just do all home brew if you wanted to. One mft/3 is not that great an expense though. In my case I wanted the rest modular for a myriad of reasons.

 

[Red Devil]

The mft is a great site table. Clamping for holding down work peices and cross cutting over sized materials. In the shop however we use our larger heavier assembly tables as they r much sturdier. That being said, we do use it in the shop a lot for routering mortises into cabinet gables, and crosscutting said gables. I'd recommend a large heavier shop built version for shop applications snd the real mft for onsite.

 

[Scorpion]

I can speak specifically for buy vs build from the build-it guy perspective. 

I almost always build because it's usually cheaper to do so and when it's not, I end up with a customized solution tailored specifically for my needs and taste.  I can tell you that the summary below is probably not what most would expect because of it.

Built (Analysis) - I have a few that function very similar to an MfT.  Some were made specifically for assembly and some for fabrication (primary difference is if the top is sacrificial/replaceable or not).  All have machines hole surfaces for clamping with the Festool clamps and that, in and of itself, is the best feature by far - infinite capabilities.  Some were made with aluminum extrusions for rigidity and to allow side clamping like the MFT and some have wood sides with and without holes for clamps.  Did they end up cheaper?  Yes, I believe the cost per square foot is lower for a built MFT.  One of mine was completely built out of Baltic birch ply - maybe $80 for the top and saw horses for legs.  Cheap.  All of mine (except the giant) are portable and can follow me in my MDX if I could find a reason.

Becoming a DIY MFT3 - difference is the miter assembly and rail components.  There are many examples out there that people have built that function very similarly to the one standard on the MFT3 but, other than those who use a table saw miter assembly, most don't have the angle capability and, instead, tend to look to widgetry for cutting angles (such as dogs and mathematical magic using multi-points).  Most methods will require your holes to be spot on for repeatability and accuracy.  Those who kinda get it buy the Festool parts and use them on their homemade table but the miter assembly and rail parts are expensive separately and make build a silly argument at that point.

Buying an MFT3 - since I built all of mine before buying I can tell you this with confidence - you unpack it and use it to do what you had originally intended to work on.  You confined to the factory size but you can buy a second one if you need bigger or make cheaper extension tables to just extend.  If you have Kapex wings they're compatible.  Maybe at some point you buy a replacement top but get to your main project quickly you will.

Today (Reflection) - since acquiring my fest tool MFT3 I now use it exclusively for machining (Tracksaw, jigsaw, domino) activities. My large table is now used exclusively for assembly and my smaller tables are used exclusively for assembly and smaller fabrication tasks like pocket hole drilling and sanding.  If I could only have one eyed want the Festool MFT3. 

Summary - if I had to do it all over again I'd answer only one question before I made my decision: 

Build - Is the MFT3 a project or is it a tool?  If I like mental gymnastics, enjoy the process of copycat fabrication, have size needs that exceed the stock footprint, have the needed capabilities and equipment/tools or are willing to build/but then, budget doesn't support buy, and/or am content with maybe not having every bell and whistle.

Buy - If time is a factor, it's a tool to be used in other projects and isn't itself the project, the factory format is all you need, and/or it's just gotta be Festool.

 

[rst]

Buy the MFT.  Once you have it you can see just how nice it is to use.  That being said, I have modified mine extensively.  I made my own cross bracing and lower shelving out of 8020 Quick Frame material.  I also made vertical attachments from 8020 1530 extrusions for vertical clamping.  I put on a 50" Incra fence, with flip stops mounted directly over the side extrusions so I can rip 27 1/2". 
I do commercial plastic fabrication so I also built a 64" by 99" table so I can cut and clamp large pieces.  The table has two sections with a 1 1/2" gap which I fill with sacrificial strips for cross cutting 60" material.  I just finished making two 3' x 5' tops for portable use.  Of course I did all that just to "need" the OF-1400 and the LS32 system.

 

[redtailvt]

I really love this site and the "brotherhood" of woodworkers.

@ Scorpion thank you for the very detailed and well thought out explanation. I do have some limitations from injuries in Iraq, so the re engineering what works might not be the best route. Most of the work i do, plan on doing,  i can cut down on a larger table and the MFT3 will give me plenty of surface area.

@ rst thank you for the info on additional bracing and the go for it, which i did. Yes green has gotten me again!! Honestly given my situation I think their products, especially the dust extraction system, is priceless.

 

[shaun.mcc]

I'm in the process of building a Paulk Workbench (google it if you want his copy). I also am getting into cabinet making (full walk-in closet, built-in office, kitchen island)...and have watched MrBigrock (I think he's erock on FOG) YouTube series on building cabinets...and his use of the MFT swayed me into buying one (to start). Shout out to him for the great videos!

I will then use the Paulk Bench for ripping or assembly. I'll use the MFT3 for cutting to length boards wider than my Kapex can cut, and other purposes. 

Shaun

 

[Red Devil]

Big rocks videos r very good!
Mft table is a cabinet gable machine!
Set your stops and cut two at once.
So fast,clean safe.
I don't miss crosscutting gables on cabinet saw.

 

[sancho57]

It depends..

I have 2 and want another one. If your not using it to the fullest and just a cutting table and maybe clamp some things and cut and sand, buy a top, there's a guy selling them. Here custom made sizes using a CNC. if y male yer own well it woold be accurate according to your own craftsmanship.

Another consideration is shop size and work area size. Will you have the room to use your own design. Mthe MFT are designed for the small Euro shops thus the smaller design.

Also be aware of the table height Festool uses a 900 mm baseline for all their tools, CMS, Kapex whether your using a Kapex MFT or UG stand. That's how folks have the ability to use the MFT as. Outfeed table...

Personally, I just bought and was done with it and haven't lookoed back? I really like the clamping options and know when I set it up it just a pull a couple of legs down tighten and get to work.

 

[jnug]

So I thought I would post this just to help guys that don't have these parts in as yet so just can't see what they would have to do or could do to build out using an MFT/3 to start. Just to refresh, for me it became necessary to get one MFT/3 and then build out from there with home built as I needed to be able to clamp to a bench for purposes of hand tool work and I just don't think the MFT/3 is designed for that....That is not a criticism of Festool. There is no reason I should expect them to cover me for my hand tool needs.

So I have an MFT/3 now and intend using it as the cornerstone of my power tool bench work. In addition I have one of the CNC slabs referred to in this thread. I am building two tables that will be used with the C470 saw horses that are designed to take a 2x4 frame and support a work surface. One will use the CNC slab that I have and the other will be all in ply. The ply version is the one I will use for hand tool work. It will have the same 20mm holes that everything else has and the holes will have the same 96mm spacing.

Since I have everything i need at this point I can offer to folks that don't, information about what fits where.

You can align your home built work surface to make an L with your MFT/3 or extend the length or width of your MFT/3 using the C470 folding horses. The bracing for the saw horses is positioned a little higher off the floor than the bracing on the legs of the MFT/3. So you can build your work surface to be the exact same height off the floor as your MFT/3 and can butt the edge on either the long or short side successfully without worrying that the leg braces for the horses will interfere with the leg bracing of the MFT/3. All by way of saying that you can extend the work surface this way if you choose. Again in my case I didn't want to just buy more MFT's because I really think the kind of hand work I do would be abusive to an MFT. So I wanted the added functionality and another MFT was not going to do that for me. Plus I don't want to abuse my MFT.

 

[awshucks]

Just the thread I was looking for,
So eventually an MFT3 is in the cards for me as a site tool, but I just plunged into the festool world and already in for way more than planned. In the unbearable meantime I have a couple Paulk style tables that I use way more than I thought I would. They were an experiment so not as detailed as I could of done but they have been awesome for the time and money I have in them.
Time for improvements though, so some simple ??s. Will the clamping elements, quick clamps and screw clamps work on 1/2" ply as a base? Is the grid pattern for the 20mm holes crucial or can I do some and add some later as needs arise? Looked but can't find the slotted rails that are on the sides of the MFT, can they be purchased sep.?
Thanks

 

[jnug]

The rails as you refer to them are available directly from Festool. They are out of stock right now but that is temporary. I would say plan on getting on with Festool in about 35 days and all of the rails will be back in inventory.

As for fewer bench dog holes,  if you are going to go that route I would say use the pattern you are going to use when you fill out the surface with holes but other than that if you want to start with fewer, I don't see a particular problem. AGain I just would not go with an odd pattern....just cut fewer holes for now. it sort of seems like an added complication but if that is what you want to do, I really don't see a problem.

As for 1/2" ply, you are familiar with Paulk benches so you know he uses 1/2" ply but it is internally braced quite a bit. I would say 1/2" would be fine if you brace it like he does. Clamping elements....all that stuff should work fine. If you are going to use a top and bottom surface on your bench you might want to make sure that your top surface is separated from your bottom surface such that you get optimal bench dog use. That is going to depend on which bench dogs you are going to use. I am not separating my top and bottom surfaces by more than about 4.5". Remember, the way you are going to mount the rails to the the table is via countersunk screw or bolt holes in the rails. They are not going to come with countersunk holes in them already. So you are going to have to do it or get it done. I am going to end up in the same place and have not decided how I am going to take care of that just yet. Don't have a drill press. I don't think it will be a big problem though. I am using 0.75" thick material for the top surface in my case.

 

[awshucks]

Thanks jnug,
Good feedback. My benches have 6" between the top and bottom for storage, all the crap that lands on top, mostly clam clamps and such. Only have one brace in the middle but they are only 2' wide and I clamp as many together as I need at the time.
Think I might hold off on the "rails" till I make a more custom, thought out bench.
Aside from the clamping elements, I'm still looking for the best bench dogs/ clamps for sanding trim and FFs on faces and edges.

 

[Hud]

I am building mine to save a little.  Using 80/20 extrusions for the frame.  The top is 18mm Baltic birch 96mm grid holes, same width but 96mm longer.  Wanted to get as close to 48" as possible.  Had this made by a local guy with ShopBot CNC he did this for about $70.  Making my own hinge for guide bar and front support.  Will have storage underneath.  Will post pictures when done.  I plan to use a 52" Incra track for the fence anchored to dogs.  Cost  will be in the range of $400.  80/20 will allow adding extensions.  One extension could be a router table.

 

[jnug]

I am familiar with the 80/20 extrusions. Are you running something into the hole in the middle to secure it to the bench top or using some other method to attach it?