I just realized I have some glue spots which are impossible to see without some sort of solvent. I've read people using mineral spirits to enhance the appearance of glue spots. Can I use mineral spirit or naptha with water based top coats? I'm fearful it will leave a residue that will affect the finish...advice would be greatly appreciated
Mineral Spirits and water based finish
- Thread starter hanshamm
- Start date
GaryLaroff
Member
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2008
- Messages
- 179
If using the solvent to show the glue spots, you want the solvent to evaporate and leave no residue whatsoever. I would prioritize first: "naphtha", second: "odorless mineral spirits" and third: "mineral spirits". In general, I would not use plain mineral spirits or paint thinner because of the minor oily residue that might be left behind.
If using naphtha, make sure the solvent and paper towel are clean and will not dirty the wood.
I would not use alcohol if the glue was a PVA glue as the alcohol might soften it and make your problem worse. Old denatured alcohol, alcohol in a can that is slightly rusty on the bottom or a can of denatured alcohol that has remained half full for a while might have absorbed some water which will soften the glue. You don't want that to happen.
I would choose naphtha.
If using naphtha, make sure the solvent and paper towel are clean and will not dirty the wood.
I would not use alcohol if the glue was a PVA glue as the alcohol might soften it and make your problem worse. Old denatured alcohol, alcohol in a can that is slightly rusty on the bottom or a can of denatured alcohol that has remained half full for a while might have absorbed some water which will soften the glue. You don't want that to happen.
I would choose naphtha.
Hans,
Being a hobbyist, I bow to those members having professional and / or more experience but I believe I can offer some help.
You did not tell us what kind of glue you used. I think it would make a difference.
In general, I think you would start with the mildest solvent, naphtha, and go from there. As stated previously, however, I would avoid any oil based solvents since you are using a water based topcoat.
Since it appears that you have not started the finishing process what about removing the spots all together with a scraper, sander, sharp chisel, or plane?
Wish you luck.
Neill
Being a hobbyist, I bow to those members having professional and / or more experience but I believe I can offer some help.
You did not tell us what kind of glue you used. I think it would make a difference.
In general, I think you would start with the mildest solvent, naphtha, and go from there. As stated previously, however, I would avoid any oil based solvents since you are using a water based topcoat.
Since it appears that you have not started the finishing process what about removing the spots all together with a scraper, sander, sharp chisel, or plane?
Wish you luck.
Neill
tiralie
Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2010
- Messages
- 3,617
hanshamm said:
If you seal the surface with a water based Shellac I don't see any reason why you can use a solvents to expose glue spots. The shellac (amber) also warms water based finishes that can look bluish when first applied. I assume you are applying a clear finish vs. pigmented coat to your piece. You may also want to try washing the surface first with some distilled water. I find this exposes the majority of glue left on the surface and raises the grain for the first light sanding before applying my first course of finishing.
Tim
I used TB extended.
The schedule I had used on similar pieces is
general finishes pre-stain conditioner - lightly sand the popped grain - general finishes stain - general finishes clear coat
I was mass producing these pieces and sloppy with the glue. Lesson learned!
Paul actually suggested a black light which I'm now leaning towards...
I know water is the obvious answer for solvent but I remember it showing the glue. At least I didn't notice it...maybe i have to look a little harder.
The schedule I had used on similar pieces is
general finishes pre-stain conditioner - lightly sand the popped grain - general finishes stain - general finishes clear coat
I was mass producing these pieces and sloppy with the glue. Lesson learned!
Paul actually suggested a black light which I'm now leaning towards...
I know water is the obvious answer for solvent but I remember it showing the glue. At least I didn't notice it...maybe i have to look a little harder.
I heard about shallac as a sealer but I was told by a fellow at my local hardwood store to put the clear poly right over top of the water based stain. His reasoning is that the first coat will pull some of the stain up and help reduce the blotchy affect (when applying to birch ply).
These aren't super critical pieces since they are in my closets so I'm just using this project to learn. I sort of committed to this schedule since I want them to look all uniform.
These aren't super critical pieces since they are in my closets so I'm just using this project to learn. I sort of committed to this schedule since I want them to look all uniform.
So I had an opportunity to try some solutions out.
Denatured alcohol was a no go. it does soften the glue
incandescent black light was very hard to see but a florescent black light worked like a charm....it was a lot brighter.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Denatured alcohol was a no go. it does soften the glue
incandescent black light was very hard to see but a florescent black light worked like a charm....it was a lot brighter.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Similar threads
