Modular Bench System

[rnt80]

My last job (the closet redo) finally put me over the edge.  I had a lot of cutting to do on site and ended up balancing pieces on top of my CT22 to do most of the work.  I've been looking at getting an MFT with Steve's new ts55 jig but decided to go this route for now.  I read the article about the Finn bench system when it was in FWW earlier this year and was intrigued by the possibilities.  After looking at his design and that of Alan Mohr's on this site I decided to make a few changes.  I decided not to build the bases for a couple of reasons.  These benches will primarily be used on site so the bases needed to break down easily, something Finn's original idea wasn't made for.  The bases I ended up using are from IKEA and cost $30 each.  The only change I had to make was where the legs attach to the bottom shelf.  It was supposed to screw together, instead I bought some 1/4-20 3" hanger bolts and wing nuts so that I could easily take that joint apart.  All told it takes about 2-3 minutes to assemble/disassemble the bases.
The tops of the benchs have been drilled out with 20mm holes using a Festool 20mm bit.  I used the LR32 system to space the holes 128mm OC along the length of the bench and 64mm OC across the width.  On one side of each of the benches I routed a t-track so that I could slide Festool clamps in and out to hold pieces vertically (I have the same feature on my assembly bench in the background).  The benches are approximately 8' long, which is too big for my old Pathfinder so I cut out recesses on at each end of the bench.  This will allow me to strap them to the roof of my car when I take them for the next install.  The cut out that is in the middle of the bench is just for a hand hold.  
The bottom of the benches have a lip so that I can clamp them to the bases.  After using them today to plane down a piece of stock I don't think that'll be necessary, they are solid as a rock.  The bottom of one of the bases is offset so that I can push the two together to create a bigger space and still have one of the t-tracks accessible.
I topped them off with a couple of coats of poly.  I plan on adding a larger piece of mdf to the tops of the IKEA bases just to provide more surface area for the benches to rest on.  

 

[rnt80]

A few more pics.

 

[nclemmons]

Excellent design and photos -

can you provide the dimensions?

is there a t-track screwed and mortised down the side?  it's not clear from the photos.

thanks for sharing -

neilc

 

[John Stevens]

Very nice, thanks for sharing that.

Regards,

John

 

[rnt80]

Excellent design and photos -

can you provide the dimensions?

is there a t-track screwed and mortised down the side?  it's not clear from the photos.

thanks for sharing -

neilc

Thanks Neil.  There's no t-track.  I just used a slot cutting bit, I rarely buy t-track these days.  That bit has earned it's keep.  The benches are about 8' long, 10" wide and 5" tall.  If you want specifics I can certainly do that.  I tried to keep the dimensions close to Finn's benches but I adapted them to fit my needs.

 

[rnt80]

The good thing about this system is that I'll be able to put my Kapex and one of the homemade wing extensions on one end of the benches and still have about 6' of workable space to use off the opposite side.  Up to this point I didn't have a stand that I could take with me for the Kapex and I wasn't about to buy an MFT just for it.

 

[balrog]

Russ-

How heavy is each one?

 

[rnt80]

They're not too light but light enough that I can carry one in each hand by the hand holds.  I was going to make them 6' but decided to just go ahead with a full 8'.  Had I gone with the shorter length it would have cut the weight down considerably.  If I were to rebuild them I'd use 1/2" mdf on the bottoms instead of 3/4".  I like the fact that they are stout though.  As I mentioned yesterday I had both of them on the bases and didn't need to clamp them down when I planed that board...they didn't even think about moving.

 

[mohrab]

Russ,

I am suprised that you don't need a T-track for side clamping - don't you think the t-slot will eventually tear or wear out?  Would it be strong enough to attach a Kreg fence - fence can get bumped hard sometimes?  Also, what slotting bit do you use?

 

[rnt80]

I've done the same thing on the side of my assembly table and have never had a problem.  Usually the material that's being clamped is directly over the part of the track that has pressure on it from the clamp so those two forces balance each other out.
Here's the bit I use.  I wouldn't hesitate to put a Kreg fence in with this arrangement.

 

[mhoy]

Looks very nice.  Do you happen to have a shot of the end? It kinda looks like the T slot cuts the sides into two pieces. Do you happen to have a part number for the IKEA bases? 

Thanks,
Mark

 

[rnt80]

Here's the IKEA base.  I failed to mention in the original post that this is a torsion box assembly so there are pieces running across the width of the entire bench.  The sides are not cut in half by the slot.  I messed up when I cut the slot initially so that's why you see a groove running along the inside of one of the sides.  I can't overstate how stout these benches are.

 

[jrs]

That is pretty cool.

Can you post a shot of the bottom?  Or is it the same as the top?

 

[Ashlee52]

I too have built the Finn style bench system... and love it.

I find the Finn bases very useful on their own and often use them without the beams. Of course, they are less transportable for job site use. The only modification I suggest to the Finn bases is to increase the top overhang in order to be able to clamp to them more easily.

With my beams, I left one side as plywood and the other as melamine.

I also have a hollow core door blank with styrofoam insulation glued on one side that I can use as either a smooth table or cutting table. That works beautifully with the TS-55 as a cutting surface on the Finn bases, and gets used more than the beams.

 

[rnt80]

That is pretty cool.

Can you post a shot of the bottom?  Or is it the same as the top?

There's nothing special about the bottom.  I didn't route the holes in it.  It's still useable just not as versatile as the top.

 

[Jesus Aleman]

Russell, 3/4 MDF construction all around?

 

[rnt80]

Russell, 3/4 MDF construction all around?

Yep.  The ones I made are pretty long so with the 3/4 they're pretty heavy.  Of course that's one of the reasons that they're so stout.  I can do just about anything on them without them budging.  I don't know if you'd get the same benefit from using thinner material.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Russ,

For the torsion box innards, did you include member(s) that extend in the lengthwise direction of the modular benches?  What materials did you use for the internal gridwork of the torsion box system?  I would like to build something similar, and envision using them as an assembly table for larger furniture projects as well as the used you mentioned.  To keep down the weight of each module, I am thinking of using pine or poplar for the internal grid instead of MDF.  Would use of solid board members create instability due to their dimensional changes as the seasonal humidity levels change?  Would internal grid members cut from plywood be a better choice?  I live in NE Ohio.

Dave R.

 

[JeromeM]

Russ,

For the torsion box innards, did you include member(s) that extend in the lengthwise direction of the modular benches?  What materials did you use for the internal gridwork of the torsion box system?  I would like to build something similar, and envision using them as an assembly table for larger furniture projects as well as the used you mentioned.  To keep down the weight of each module, I am thinking of using pine or poplar for the internal grid instead of MDF.  Would use of solid board members create instability due to their dimensional changes as the seasonal humidity levels change?   Would internal grid members cut from plywood be a better choice?   I live in NE Ohio.

Dave R.

Hi Dave

It looks as if you are planning something like the things I did with my portable assembly / workbench top. There are a few photos on Fliker if you want a more visual guide. What I did was to use 6mm MDF internally. It is stable, can be interlocked with a 1/4" slot, strong enough and light enough.

I also put in 54mm through holes for bar clamps.

It is not finished yet as I will be putting a T-slot along the sides.
The setup to date is here http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2543/3933252478_ea9e7b6bbc.jpg and here http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2514/3933252150_080eea2b50.jpg

The pre-glue up detail is here
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2578/4173303616_245393153f.jpg

The whole set is here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nui-jerome/4173303616/#in/set-72157622407585122/

I haven't posted the Pics as there has been little interest (no comments) in my detailed write up but you may find it helpful.

 

[Jesus Aleman]

Russell, did you use the same grid work as recommended in the article.  How flat are the tables?