mounting a guide rail on a vertical surface

[marc rosen]

Hey Gang,
If anyone has tried this I'd appreciate your comments on its success or its downfall(s).  [This is for my neighbor, fortunately I don't have this board rot  problem]
I want to mount my 118 inch guide rail on a cedar plank wall, matching the slope of the roofline below to cut away the rotted board ends.  We want to remove about 8 inches of waste and I want make a 45 degree bevel cut (under cut)  to produce a scarf joint where the new pieces will slip in.  So as not to drill any holes in the rail I was thinking about setting a few #12 flat head screws in the wall to act like dovetail tenons and slide the rail along these.  The saw is a TS75 and I can handle it easily in spite of my scrawny size (but I wish I had the 55 for the lesser weight).  Fortunately this cut is going downhill, or down the right side of the peak.
Although accidents can happen I really don't see anything tragic occurring if I take my time and keep the saw pressed firmly against the rail.  The roof has a shallow pitch, about a 3 in 12 and there is room for my CT22 (lock the wheels!) but I'm not sure if I want to be encumbered with the hose.  However, the thought of being showered with wood dust is undesirable and perhaps my neighbor can hold the hose and cord up which might aid my success in  keeping the saw against the rail .
So, has anyone tried guide rail cutting on vertical surfaces and what are your comments?  Any suggestions other than screw heads for holding the rail in place?
Thanks in advance for your comments.
                                                      Marc

 

[tjbnwi]

I've mounted the rails to plaster ceilings to cut them. I use the holes in the ends of the rail. If you can, attach a block to wall and use the Rapid Clamp to secure the rail from block to corner post.

In this video the Rapid Clamp is use to trim back cedar at a door opening.



Tom

 

[marc rosen]

Hello Tom,
Thanks for the encouragement.  Your job looks more difficult because your are going up and the surface you are cutting is not flat.  I won't be able to use the clamp because there is no space behind the rail.
Thanks once more.
                            Marc

 

[cblanton42]

Marc,
    I totally understand your reluctance to drill into that long rail but some nice countersunk holes for some screws placed at each end and even one or two in the middle would be a real benefit to actually screw the rail to the wall and it won't hurt the rail at all!  I might add, that's a very long rail, would a shorter one be easier to handle?  I've done this to trim a cabinet down both with and without screwing the rail to the surface I was cutting and I was a lot less nervous NOT having to constantly press all of the equipment to the wall.  Having the saw tilted at a 45 degree may make this really hard, almost impossible, without mounting it some way to the wall because you're not pushing straight toward the wall. :
    One thing about the plunge saw, God forbid if you were to drop it, the blade retracts into the saw when no pressure is being applied to the handle so it actually may be safer than most other options.  Anyway, it can be used as you want, just use all the precaution that you can, take your time and try to figure out a way to mount it for best and safest results.

Good luck,
CB 

 

[kevin clifford]

Drill holes in the rail. Countersink them, but having the option to screw it down is fantastic. I did it years ago and have no regrets.

 

[oneeyesquare]

My experience-Drilled holes. Countersunk. Cut relief cut for copper flashing on fascia. Profit!