Jim Metzger said:
Dave,
I'm suprised they woudn't let you channel a trench and pour a 4" high concrete curb at the wall between the garage and house. Here in NY we only have to provide a fire proof (marble) sill at the door between these spaces. A fire resistive wall could be constructed next to the existing wall if they require a rating.
Jim
Jim,
You are correct in thinking that I could have passed building code requirements by building a "step-up, step-down" transition, but I figured that would likely become and additional place to cause people to trip. And there was another more significant problem -- the passage door in the common wall between the kitchen and garage. Raising it would have meant tearing out more structural wall. That door and the end of that wall "kiss" the corner of the cherry kitchen cabinets that were not to be replaced. And the good wife was being put out more than enough with my garage upgrade. So we left the door in place, until the day the clumsy concrete crew literally tore it off its hinges on the jamb side. If that ever happens again, Domino to the rescue!
The wall I tore out was fire resistive - concrete block with thin insulation and 5/8 inch drywall. The design of my project left part of the old wall in place, leaving two passage doors in place, one near each end of the wall. Between those doors, the new wall section pushed into the garage space to make room for the laundry closet. Sealing that up to satisfy the inspectors was a bit of a chore, particularly the way the garage attic extended partially over the kitchen (former breezeway) area. Doing so required 2 X 4 and 2 x 6 blocking between the wall studs, FG insulation compacted in the uppermost ~ft ir more, and fireproof rated drywall on the garage side. I installed thicker drywall than required and chose a type that is also water resistant. No problems since the installation.
The concrete floor in the kitchen area had to come out so that hydronic heating tubes could be installed. The plastic tubing works OK, but the engineering company underestimated the amount of heat needed, and should have specified a closer spacing of the tubing. The kitchen concrete/heating/laundry project was a major pain for everyone involved, especially the heating and plumbing contractor (I'm not allowed to do my own in Akron unless I pass some test) who had to redo some items.
Barry,
Stick with your project. It sounds like it will be a very large, useful space when complete. Like those road project signs: "Temporary inconvenience, permanent improvement." I started using IrfranView a few weeks ago, based on guiidance and help from other members of FOG. Some have recommended using GIMP because it is more powerful, although the learning curve is longer.
You will like that foamboard after it's all done. I used 1" Styrofoam under the siding of the garage I built onto my former house, and 5/8" polyisocyanurate foam with aluminum foil faces between the inner concrete block and out brice facing of the foundation walls that rose to about 3 1/2 ft above the floor level. That older garage was much more heat efficient than my current one, despite my current one being smaller and having FG filled 2x6 construction in most of the outside walls, the same ceiling insulation and 1" of Styrofoam board under the concrete.
Dave R.