My Solid Wood Tool Kit and Workflow

[Patrick Cox]

Hello,
Most of my projects to this point have been with plywood.  But I am now wanting to work on some projects with Solid Wood.  I will probably start with pine or maybe poplar.  However I am discovering that I don't really have all of the tools I need for working with Solid wood planks.  I don't have a table saw or planer or jointer.  I only have a TS55 for saw cuts.  And while the TS55 and MFT3 work fine for cross cuts, they don't work so well for ripping solid wood planks down to size.  And to be honest, I really don't have a desire for a table saw.  I don't really have room for a table saw and they also make me a bit nervous.  So here are the options I am considering and I would appreciate thoughts from others on this.

1. I am developing an interest in hand tools.  I have been watching a lot of videos on hand tool use and I feel like I would get some satisfaction from working with hand tools.  So I am thinking about buying a panel saw and a couple of planes and then try ripping boards to length by hand and then use the planes to get to final dimensions.  I know it will be more work but right now that does not scare me.

2. The other option I was thinking about was making rough rip cuts with a jigsaw and then using hand planes for final dimensions.  This would obviously be less strenuous but I am wondering if the saw cut with a jig saw would actually be less accurate than using a panel saw.

So those are a couple of options I have thought of.  Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences on this subject!

Pat

 

[waterloomarc]

1. Have you considered a band saw instead of a table saw for ripping? I have a 19" grizzly bandsaw and use it for most of my ripping. In fact about the only thing I use my tablesaw for is dado work and repetitive plywood cuts. A well tuned bandsaw will make very accurate cuts, plus the thin blade wastes much less wood and (imo) it's a safer tool.

2. You already have the TS 55 why not just buy the long rail? Sure it stings to pay over $300 for a piece of aluminum but it would certainly solve your problem of ripping. I bought mine just for a specific project but I have been pleasantly surprised at how much I use it.

3. While I enjoy handwork and have way more saws and planes than any sane person would I think I would scream if they were my sole means of work. To me they're a luxury for when I'm not in a hurry or, even better, building for someone that would appreciate the craftsmanship. That said, it's a worthy skill to have and there certainly are times when just grabbing a saw or a plane is indeed the fastest option. But as I said, for some means of work I'd go with 1 or 2.

 

[Patrick Cox]

1. Have you considered a band saw instead of a table saw for ripping? I have a 19" grizzly bandsaw and use it for most of my ripping. In fact about the only thing I use my tablesaw for is dado work and repetitive plywood cuts. A well tuned bandsaw will make very accurate cuts, plus the thin blade wastes much less wood and (imo) it's a safer tool.

2. You already have the TS 55 why not just buy the long rail? Sure it stings to pay over $300 for a piece of aluminum but it would certainly solve your problem of ripping. I bought mine just for a specific project but I have been pleasantly surprised at how much I use it.

3. While I enjoy handwork and have way more saws and planes than any sane person would I think I would scream if they were my sole means of work. To me they're a luxury for when I'm not in a hurry or, even better, building for someone that would appreciate the craftsmanship. That said, it's a worthy skill to have and there certainly are times when just grabbing a saw or a plane is indeed the fastest option. But as I said, for some means of work I'd go with 1 or 2.

Thanks for your reply.  These are good thoughts.  I may stop by Woodcraft tomorrow to take a look at their bandsaws.  Are there smaller bandsaws that are worth getting?  Like 10"?

Regarding your comment on the longer rail.  I am talking about say ripping a 1x8 down to two 1x4s for example.  Or a 1x12 down to smaller strips.  Are you able to use a guide rail and TS saw for that?  I can't figure out how to cut narrow boards with that setup.

Thanks again!

 

[Klemm]

Patrick,
I understand your table saw concern. I have seen more "breathtaking moments"  and experienced two of them personally on table saws then any other tool except for the router table. Workpieces becoming projectiles is a bigger threat than cutting finger off.
That said, I have acquired a growing appreciation for the bandsaw capabilities. For the application you describe I think a bandsaw will impress you. You'll discover what resawing can do for you!
Find a friend with a decent bandsaw and fence system and try it out.
Let us know how it turns out.
Hans

 

[Patrick Cox]

Patrick,
I understand your table saw concern. I have seen more "breathtaking moments"  and experienced two of them personally on table saws then any other tool except for the router table. Workpieces becoming projectiles is a bigger threat than cutting finger off.
That said, I have acquired a growing appreciation for the bandsaw capabilities. For the application you describe I think a bandsaw will impress you. You'll discover what resawing can do for you!
Find a friend with a decent bandsaw and fence system and try it out.
Let us know how it turns out.
Hans

Thanks for your reply Hans.  Any suggestions for a Bandsaw for a small shop and beginning woodworker?

 

[bdiemer]

I've keep a small band saw around the shop forever and they were all trash, good only for cutting small pieces of wood. My latest small band saw is a 10 Rikon. I use the Rikon for a lot of tasks that I would do on my larger saw. I even bought a resaw blade for it. If  I had only one band saw I'd try  go for at least a 14 inch saw, but if your footprint only allows for a benchtop, the Rikon is a real saw. 

 

[waterloomarc]

1. Have you considered a band saw instead of a table saw for ripping? I have a 19" grizzly bandsaw and use it for most of my ripping. In fact about the only thing I use my tablesaw for is dado work and repetitive plywood cuts. A well tuned bandsaw will make very accurate cuts, plus the thin blade wastes much less wood and (imo) it's a safer tool.

2. You already have the TS 55 why not just buy the long rail? Sure it stings to pay over $300 for a piece of aluminum but it would certainly solve your problem of ripping. I bought mine just for a specific project but I have been pleasantly surprised at how much I use it.

3. While I enjoy handwork and have way more saws and planes than any sane person would I think I would scream if they were my sole means of work. To me they're a luxury for when I'm not in a hurry or, even better, building for someone that would appreciate the craftsmanship. That said, it's a worthy skill to have and there certainly are times when just grabbing a saw or a plane is indeed the fastest option. But as I said, for some means of work I'd go with 1 or 2.

Thanks for your reply.  These are good thoughts.  I may stop by Woodcraft tomorrow to take a look at their bandsaws.  Are there smaller bandsaws that are worth getting?  Like 10"?

Regarding your comment on the longer rail.  I am talking about say ripping a 1x8 down to two 1x4s for example.  Or a 1x12 down to smaller strips.  Are you able to use a guide rail and TS saw for that?  I can't figure out how to cut narrow boards with that setup.

Thanks again!

I wouldn't spend the money on a 10" saw. They're simply now big enough for anything meaningful. They're good for crafts and scrolling small work but that's about it. The smallest I would go is 14". The Rikons at woodcraft get good reviews. I also think Laguna makes a 14" that woodcraft carries. I can't imagine ripping an 8' plank on a 10" saw, the table is so small and the saw is so light I'd be afraid it'd tip over! I had a 12" Delta years ago (before Delta went to absolute crap) and while it got me through I was continually devising ways to work around its limitations. That said, I would like a smaller 12 or 14" saw around the shop for small work and cut down on blade changes.

You can rip pieces with the long rail by laying other planks beside the one you're cutting. In your example, put another 1x8 behind the one you're ripping 4" off. That will keep the rail steady. It's the same principle as sistering stock to keep a router steady.

 

[Wooden Skye]

If you go the bandsaw route, I would get nothing less than a 14" saw.  I have a Grizzly that I am very happy with.  If you go to look at the Rikon at woodcraft, keep in mind that on August 5, they will be going on sale.

 

[peter halle]

[member=61142]Patrick Cox[/member] ,

Whenever advice is given and received there will always be many points of view and opinions.  Offered constructively none are wrong in my observations.  The bandsaw as been mentioned is a strong possibility and certainly there is the tablesaw  which is also a tool with merits.

I am not discounting those as REAL, LEGITIMATE solutions to your stated position.  Instead, I will reply based on what I have seen you describe as Festool products that you own in an effort to help you at least get started to a point where you can then make an even better decision.

Over the years here I have gone thru many stages of involvement here but one thing that has been firm in my mind is that for the majority of Festool owners we (including me) don't take time to fully realize the potential and use that potential of the tools that we have before we rush out to buy a new tool, new accessory, new aftermarket accessories, etc. 

So my comments here will be directed towards helping you (and I am sure with the help of other Members who will chime in) at least start you on the avenue of using your current tools to help out.

You can absolutely rip down 1 x material into thinner strips with the TS-55 and guiderails.  I certainly do it and numerous others do it.  If you are talking pieces that are of a length comparable to those found in a typical piece of furniture or a cabinet then all you need on pieces of wood less than the width of a rail is a spare piece of wood the same thickness that you can butt up to the workpiece to support the rail.  [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] has posted here numerous times about how he cuts even parts for face frame cabinets (2 - 3" wide) in a production setting for his cabinets.  His system does work and there are others here that also work. 

Peter

 

[Holmz]

If you already have the TS55 then you only need a long rail, or to get two rails connected. (as well as the shims that were mentioned).

A band saw would be nice, but it is hard to beat the track saw if you are not cutting thicker than 2".

 

[Patrick Cox]

[member=1674]Peter Halle[/member] & [member=40772]Holmz[/member] , thanks for your suggestion on using the TS55 and guide rail for ripping solid wood planks.  I understand the concept of using an extra board to support the guide rail but how do you ensure the piece you are cutting doesn't move?  Let's say I need to rip a 1x4 or 1x6 down the middle, how do I stabilize that piece?

Thanks!

 

[rizzoa13]

You fiddle around with clamping and unclamping all the pieces on both the front and back of the board. You measure multiple times in multiple spots on the board to make sure you are parallel to the edge and at the measurement you want.

Or you just set the width on the table saw and cut it. Not to mention repeat cuts become increasingly more efficient.

I'm all for the track saw and people finding ways to use it when necessary but come on the tool for the job is a table saw. Even if you just get yourself a benchtop model like a dewalt it'll be much more useful.

If your afraid of the saw and don't yet trust yourself maybe a Bosch reaxx with the flesh sensing technology and a gravity rise stand would do you well? You'll have the knowledge that your safe in The case of a screw up and you'll get time in on a table saw to build your confidence. Add to that the small footprint and something like that could tick all your boxes.

 

[peter halle]

[member=1674]Peter Halle[/member] & [member=40772]Holmz[/member] , thanks for your suggestion on using the TS55 and guide rail for ripping solid wood planks.  I understand the concept of using an extra board to support the guide rail but how do you ensure the piece you are cutting doesn't move?  Let's say I need to rip a 1x4 or 1x6 down the middle, how do I stabilize that piece?

Thanks!

In most cases the rail will stabilize it.  Many here have come up with their own solutions but it might be a good idea to go to the big box store or rummage thru the lumber pile to get some 1 x 6 material and just experiment.

Peter

 

[live4ever]

The tablesaw is an intimidating tool if you haven't used one much before.  I was uncomfortable with it initially, and the finger-saving variety gave me the confidence to learn proper technique.  In addition, appropriate safety devices on the saw such as a riving knife, and good assist devices (like the GRR-ripper) greatly reduce/eliminate the chances for an accident.  There is a reason why the tablesaw is the heart of most woodworking shops.  Don't discount getting one too soon.

A decent bandsaw will also go a long way.  14" would be the minimum to get.  I'm still using my Grizzly G0555, though the upgrade bug is biting hard.  It is an excellent budget saw though.  Bandsaws are quieter and safer than tablesaws, but each does certain things better than the other. 

As for handtools, yes, there can be a lot of pleasure in using them.  However, what is not immediately apparent to many is the tremendous amount of patience required to learn proper technique, both in use and in sharpening.  Without the ability to sharpen properly, hand tools are exceptionally frustrating and even dangerous.  And especially for newbies, sharpening properly will require various jigs, waterstones, etc. etc.  The hand tool journey is a fun one, no doubt, but not if you're in a rush to actually make anything of decent quality.  It has taken me years and a lot of money to feel like I am even halfway competent with planes for anything more than flushing a joint here or smoothing an edge there.  I can't imagine doing anything more than a small project with them.  I'm of the impatient variety though and my wife's honey-do list is way too long for a handtool-centric approach. 

----
Let's go back to your original question about ripping solid wood. 

Your TS55 will do it, and do it quite well if you use a rip blade (and longer track if needed).  The cut edges will be smooth and ready for glue.  The finicky part of this approach, as you note, is the set up.  Creativity will be required each time to secure the workpiece with narrow pieces being more challenging.  Then you will line up your track, etc., all of which is perfectly doable but not necessarily efficient or foolproof. 

A tablesaw will do it.  Very quickly.  The cut edges will be smooth and ready for glue.  As long as you practice proper safety techniques, it's foolproof and incredibly accurate.  Even a cheaper jobsite saw.

A bandsaw will do it very quickly as well, however the cut edges will be slightly rippled, not ready for a clean glue joint.  For a glue-ready edge, you'd still need to use a hand plane (probably a large one), a jointer, a tablesaw, or router to clean up the edge.

-----

Aside from edges, you will also have to deal with thicknessing.  You really should get a thickness planer.  I admire your willingness to dive into handtools, but it is a really really small minority of people that end up finding thicknessing each piece of solid wood via hand planes a practical or enjoyable approach to building larger projects.  Of course, we are a group of Festool junkies so the neanders (exclusive handtools users) are in short supply here.

 

[tjbnwi]

Seeing as I've been mentioned all of these were ripped with the TS-55.

Tom

 

[Patrick Cox]

You fiddle around with clamping and unclamping all the pieces on both the front and back of the board. You measure multiple times in multiple spots on the board to make sure you are parallel to the edge and at the measurement you want.

Or you just set the width on the table saw and cut it. Not to mention repeat cuts become increasingly more efficient.

I'm all for the track saw and people finding ways to use it when necessary but come on the tool for the job is a table saw. Even if you just get yourself a benchtop model like a dewalt it'll be much more useful.

If your afraid of the saw and don't yet trust yourself maybe a Bosch reaxx with the flesh sensing technology and a gravity rise stand would do you well? You'll have the knowledge that your safe in The case of a screw up and you'll get time in on a table saw to build your confidence. Add to that the small footprint and something like that could tick all your boxes.

Thanks for your reply.  I don't disagree with anything you have said.  I guess it is just something I need to work out for myself.

Pat

 

[Patrick Cox]

The tablesaw is an intimidating tool if you haven't used one much before.  I was uncomfortable with it initially, and the finger-saving variety gave me the confidence to learn proper technique.  In addition, appropriate safety devices on the saw such as a riving knife, and good assist devices (like the GRR-ripper) greatly reduce/eliminate the chances for an accident.  There is a reason why the tablesaw is the heart of most woodworking shops.  Don't discount getting one too soon.

A decent bandsaw will also go a long way.  14" would be the minimum to get.  I'm still using my Grizzly G0555, though the upgrade bug is biting hard.  It is an excellent budget saw though.  Bandsaws are quieter and safer than tablesaws, but each does certain things better than the other. 

As for handtools, yes, there can be a lot of pleasure in using them.  However, what is not immediately apparent to many is the tremendous amount of patience required to learn proper technique, both in use and in sharpening.  Without the ability to sharpen properly, hand tools are exceptionally frustrating and even dangerous.  And especially for newbies, sharpening properly will require various jigs, waterstones, etc. etc.  The hand tool journey is a fun one, no doubt, but not if you're in a rush to actually make anything of decent quality.  It has taken me years and a lot of money to feel like I am even halfway competent with planes for anything more than flushing a joint here or smoothing an edge there.  I can't imagine doing anything more than a small project with them.  I'm of the impatient variety though and my wife's honey-do list is way too long for a handtool-centric approach. 

----
Let's go back to your original question about ripping solid wood. 

Your TS55 will do it, and do it quite well if you use a rip blade (and longer track if needed).  The cut edges will be smooth and ready for glue.  The finicky part of this approach, as you note, is the set up.  Creativity will be required each time to secure the workpiece with narrow pieces being more challenging.  Then you will line up your track, etc., all of which is perfectly doable but not necessarily efficient or foolproof. 

A tablesaw will do it.  Very quickly.  The cut edges will be smooth and ready for glue.  As long as you practice proper safety techniques, it's foolproof and incredibly accurate.  Even a cheaper jobsite saw.

A bandsaw will do it very quickly as well, however the cut edges will be slightly rippled, not ready for a clean glue joint.  For a glue-ready edge, you'd still need to use a hand plane (probably a large one), a jointer, a tablesaw, or router to clean up the edge.

-----

Aside from edges, you will also have to deal with thicknessing.  You really should get a thickness planer.  I admire your willingness to dive into handtools, but it is a really really small minority of people that end up finding thicknessing each piece of solid wood via hand planes a practical or enjoyable approach to building larger projects.  Of course, we are a group of Festool junkies so the neanders (exclusive handtools users) are in short supply here.

Thanks.  I appreciate your advice and suggestions.

Pat

 

[Patrick Cox]

Seeing as I've been mentioned all of these were ripped with the TS-55.

Tom

Well [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] , that's quite impressive!  Do you have any pictures of your setup?  Thanks!

 

[tjbnwi]

Seeing as I've been mentioned all of these were ripped with the TS-55.

Tom

Well [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] , that's quite impressive!  Do you have any pictures of your setup?  Thanks!

Start here, follow the links in the thread.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festo...i-rip-ff-and-door-pieces/msg211307/#msg211307

Tom

 

[Holmz]

[member=1674]Peter Halle[/member] & [member=40772]Holmz[/member] , thanks for your suggestion on using the TS55 and guide rail for ripping solid wood planks.  I understand the concept of using an extra board to support the guide rail but how do you ensure the piece you are cutting doesn't move?  Let's say I need to rip a 1x4 or 1x6 down the middle, how do I stabilize that piece?

Thanks!

My Bosch rails have a slot for a clamp.
Don't the Festool ones also have a clamp slot?

And I clamp the rail to the old lady's church bake sale table, with the peace I am cutting in the middle, like burger-patty between the buns.