Need help finding a router bit set

[rizzoa13]

I've got a little job for a friends father coming up to give his kitchen a facelift. He wants new cabinet doors and drawers and Im trying to find the correct stole and rail set for this style shaker door.

It's a simple shaker with a littlensquared off step to it. Any quality brand works for me and I don't mind paying more for a better cutter set, im just having trouble finding the right way to search for it. Anyone with some experience would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

[tjbnwi]

The download shows as empty.

Look at the CMT or Sommerfeld shaker set.
http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=rbset~8/900.624~2

Tom

 

[rizzoa13]

Thanks Tom I keep trying to re-post it and my safari keeps getting timed out. No clue why.

 

[tjbnwi]

I use Safari, no issues with the site.

You're welcome.

Doodle it out, photograph with your phone, post the doodle.

Tom

 

[rizzoa13]

Ok it worked this time from the iPad. I figure I could use a rabbet bit to create that little step but ideally one bit set would be best. Those simmer field sets are slick with the matching heights.

 

[tjbnwi]

The stepped piece is an onlay. The corners are mitered panel trim, the rails and stiles are cope and stick.

I know there is no router bit that will fabricate that door. Dealt with the same detail last year, about to do the same in the next few weeks.

Tom

 

[rizzoa13]

See that's why I asked, figured someone with more experience would know. Im assuming the groove that receives the plywood would need to be lower to accommodate the onlay, or a thicker stock would be needed for the stiles and rails?

Could you not Put a groove into the lower third of a piece of 3/4 stock and then put a step rabbet on the top like you would to receive a glass door? Just thinking out loud.

 

[tjbnwi]

Use a groove cutter to create the groove, tongue cutter to cut the tongue.

If you use a rabbiting bit to cut the step you will have to hand cut the miters or make a jig to route them.

The door material in the picture was 1".

These are simple square cut shaker doors. They were made with CMT groove cutters.

Tom

 

[rizzoa13]

Nice work.

The whole round bit making a square cut dilemma, I see.

1" was what I was thinking also.

For the onlay did you just glue and pin it in? Do you worry about cracks occurring in the paint between onlay and door?

 

[tjbnwi]

Nice work.

The whole round bit making a square cut dilemma, I see.

1" was what I was thinking also.

For the onlay did you just glue and pin it in? Do you worry about cracks occurring in the paint between onlay and door?

Glue and pins.

Not worried about the finish (t's not paint) cracking.

Tom

 

[rizzoa13]

Hmm see id like to spray them with the ka+ I've got but my friends father is a painter and I know he's just going to brush a heavy coat of something from benjamin moore on them. Not to say he'll use bad paint but that id worry about any movement of the wood telegraphing through.

I guess glue and headless pins shot into the meat of the rail would keep it all in place.

 

[tjbnwi]

Hopefully he uses Advance or Regal Select.

Tom

 

[emichnick]

Ok it worked this time from the iPad. I figure I could use a rabbet bit to create that little step but ideally one bit set would be best. Those simmer field sets are slick with the matching heights.

You can create the profile two ways. 1. You can get a custom knife made to create a french miter or 2. Make a frame with a square edge and apply molding to create the step. Attached is the drawer and door profiles for a custom knife for a french miter, I chose to use the applied molding because of budget and time. I have another phase that I will probably do the french miter approach.

 

[sancho57]

Wood line and infinity are pretty good bits

 

[JimD]

I'd probably do this with a slot cutter to make a groove for the plywood panel and also cut little tenons with it on the rails.  You can glue a plywood panel in if you want to make it stronger but I've made a lot of doors with little stub tenons from cope and stick cutters and they all stayed together.  I would make a little square molding to add the detail and apply it with my pin nailer. 

One cutter to do it all would be nice but doesn't seem to be available.  I usually buy router bits from MLCS.  They are not high end but are good enough for most bits.  The last better brand I bought was a dovetail jig by CMT.  I was pleasantly surprised.

 

[rizzoa13]

That probably what I'll end up doing. I've got a nice adjustable tongue and groove set I can make the stiles and rails out of and put a floating plywood panel in it with space balls. I'll have to get some short pins though for the applied moulding.

Any thoughts on doing it like that? Type of glue for the applied mpulding to make sure I dont get alot of movement?