New C's VS. T drills

[WarnerConstCo.]

So, what is the difference between the new C's and T's?
How do they do in the winter?
The T's have an electronic clutch and a battery Guage?

The new C-15 weighs 3 pounds 8 oz.  What did my 2.4ah Nicd C-12 weigh?

I like my old c-12, I have not used my prior drill for, well 3+ years, so am I missing something not having a T handle drill?

Who has both and what one is your favorite style?

I have not fallen off the Festool wagon for almost a year.  Last new tool purchase was a sander.
I have been collecting stationary equipment but, I am seeing the need to have another drill in the shop and a couple on install work.  I don't want another brand of drill, I know the Festool cordless drills are at the top of the heap.

thanks guys.

 

[tbellemare]

The biggest difference to me is how you hold them.

The C drills allow you to push down the axis of the bit while holding them with one hand. It helps when hangin' off a ladder.

The T drills can theoretically fit in a tighter space because your hand is farther forward. But then if you press on it, you are torquing.

Tom

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

So, what is the difference between the new C's and T's?

The C12 has a smaller battery than all the others, a 1.5Ah versus the 3.0Ah with the C15/T12/T15/T18. I can't think of any other feature difference. It really is just a matter of preference.

The T's have an electronic clutch and a battery Guage?

Yuh-huh. All the new drills will have the electronic clutch, battery gauge, belt clip and integrated light.

The new C-15 weighs 3 pounds 8 oz.  What did my 2.4ah Nicd C-12 weigh?

The old C12 2.4Ah weighed in at 3 lbs 13.4 oz. The new one has a 3.0Ah battery.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Personally, I prefer the T drills.  I work regularly with another contractor that has two C12s and I've got two T15s.  We use what ever drill is closest so we both have extensive experience with both style drills.  Like Tom said the C drills allow you to push down the axis of the bit, this allows you to get a lot of force behind the drill with less effort.  However, that only works when you can get your body/arm directly behind and inline with the drill.  That's no problem in the shop, but on the job you're constantly reaching over your head or down low so it just not always possible to get in an ideal position to use the C drill optimally.

The problem is the with the C drill you're using your middle finger to pull the trigger so when you reach over your head you only have the ring and pinky to hold on to the drill.  This makes it a lot harder to get good force behind the drill.  With a T drill you've got three fingers to hold the drill and that makes a huge difference when drilling in awkward positions.

That's my two cents.    

 

[tbellemare]

The problem is the with the C drill you're using your middle finger to pull the trigger so when you reach over your head you only have the ring and pinky to hold on to the drill.  This makes it a lot harder to get good force behind the drill.

That's quite interesting, Brice, and I never thought about it that way. From the images I've seen online, I suspect you're significantly bigger than me. I tend to hold a C 12 with my ring finger on the trigger and the front two fingers on the motor.

I'm going to have to try driving some tough screws overhead when I get another one and see how I do it. I sold my C 12 when I added the T 15 to the demo' stable. I wasn't planning to sell it, but a local customer wanted it pretty badly so I caved... I already had more drills than I could use with two hands anyway and I normally work alone.

Tom