New Festool video using the OF 1010 to miter fold drywall

[Ken Nagrod]

Interesting, to say the least.  You'll also notice, there is a good reason to clamp the guide rail.  It lifts on him at the start from the weight of the router setup.

Folding drywall using the OF 1010

 

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

Class idea. Wonder how hard it would be to do on veneered mdf?

 

[Theshipstore]

Ken.  What a awesome idea, heck I see no metal corner bead needed on this setup
Sal

 

[Brice Burrell]

Ken.  What a awesome idea, heck I see no metal corner bead needed on this setup
Sal

Sure, if it's in a protected area like a bulkhead up on the ceiling.

 

[hhh]

I'm not a rocker myself, but the two pros that I've worked with just v-cut with a utility knife and fold.  I've never tried it myself, but they seem to make the same cut in seconds.  For the rockers out there, is it really that hard to do?

 

[GhostFist]

I'm no drywaller but I'd get blood all over the board if I tried to cut it by hand. Pros I'm sure can whip it out. Just saying

 

[fritter63]

Not gonna happen in the USA. Those guys crank. Time is money. They drywalled our house (2600 sq ft) in two days. Might be good for curves, but all they do for that is scribe/cut one side (outside of the curve) then break it around the curve and fill the gaps with mud.

Besides, i'd never want to put that gypsum dust in my router....

 

[bpitch]

I am not a pro in no way but when I helped my uncle with remodeling  a living room in a condo he bought we have used 10 8'x4' drywall boards. I was cutting them to size with utility knife and a robust ruler. Worked like a charm.

 

[GhostFist]

Well that's definitely the way to cut board. This channeling technique I first saw from festool. And now mafell has that weird dado / kerf cutting / channelling plunge saw.

Is this a euro thing with drywall? the powered v channelling technique that is.

 

[duburban]

festool:

please don't engineer fancy drywall moves on my account.

 

[Alan m]

i agree with jmb (this is happening too often) .
i often do drwall. just let it pass a bit and cut it flush with a knife or old saw then do the same on the other board. this is a complete waste of time. the skim bead is there to protect the corner from knocks and give you somthing to skim into. having a mitered edge under it would be pointless. i think you would be fired for wasting time if you started doing this. .

this is a good video showing setting up the router (althow i dont know what was being said)  and routing drywall. just a pointless aplication.

 

[Deansocial]

Seen this on another forum for doing bulkheads etc where knocks are not a problem. Seems a great idea to me ahs when it is fixed just the screw heads to fill. As for here in the uk most stuff is plastered so pointless to do it that way on domestic, maybe in commercial out of the way areas its not bad. Just think high up you make it take it up and fix it fill it and its done.

 

[GhostFist]

Ya I was thinking it's a bit mental. At least the of 1010 is just a regular old router. The only thing special you need for that is the bit. That mafell machine is interesting but expensive as he'll (of course) I could only find it useful for dados, fast and accurate. But I'd have to be cutting dados constantly in order to justify the machine

 

[Deansocial]

Seen this on another forum for doing bulkheads etc where knocks are not a problem. Seems a great idea to me ahs when it is fixed just the screw heads to fill. As for here in the uk most stuff is plastered so pointless to do it that way on domestic, maybe in commercial out of the way areas its not bad. Just think high up you make it take it up and fix it fill it and its done.

Im thinking VERY heigh up!   Plasterers mess corners up all the time any way imagine if they dont have a corner bead to go to it wont be a nice corner for sure!  You will end up needing to sand the corner.

JMB

Your missing the point thats its not for plastering.

 

[Deansocial]

There is plenty of high bulkhead etc in commercial projects

 

[Mettes]

I use this technique often.  Not for an outside corner in a hallway, but lowered ceilings and for hiding ducting and columns/beams, indirect lighting coves, etc...
It's faster to do this than to have 2 or more corners finished with cornerbead and filler.

I admit that it's most interesting to use when you can do multiple corners.  I set it up an rout them all at once, prime the gypsum with a mix of water and PVAC glue (white wood glue), let it dry for a couple of minutes.  Than some PU construction adhesive  in the V-channel and fold it.  Let it set for a 30 minutes and you can place an L-, U-, or even G- plasterboard formwork.

Down here we can even buy these prefabricated, but they have a lead time, and a minimal order of 20 sheets.

Gyproc Gypform

 

[Linbro]

See this used down here in Aus, as well - though usually done offsite and delivered. Same technique is used for folding Alucabond etc. Can't do that with a knife!  Not sure if it's available everywhere, but have you seen the Festool 'Aluminium composite milling machine PF 1200'? Used for grooving composite panels for folding.

http://www.festool.com.au/mediandoweb/index.cfm?sLanguage=AUS-English&ID_O_TREE_GROUP=2653&ID_O_PRODUCT=378658&BLATT=1&PARENT=2578&#anker