So it seems like a good starting point is the TS55 and a MFT. One of the first projects that I want to build is a three stall cubbie unit for some coats, shoes, etc for each of my kids. I would have to cut down some full sheets of plywood, and then router in slots for shelving and top and bottom. What would you recommend in terms of a router and a dust extractor? And if I am cutting down full sheets of plywood, do you recommend working with two MFT tables?
New to woodworking and Festool
- Thread starter xuamox
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truck90278
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Welcome to the FOG, that is a good start, but I would also suggest adding a Dust Extractor. That will eliminate the sawdust from going everywhere.
chrismorrow
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Welcome to the FOG! First, you will love the MFT and TS 55. They were a couple of my first Festools as well. If you're limited with space, the CT MINI and MIDI are both very capable vacs. I use a MINI and have been very happy with it. If space and money aren't issues, get a larger vac. You will be happy with any of the Festool vacs you choose. As for the router, I use and have loved the OF 1400. It's strong enough to handle just about any task, and won't break the bank. I've cut many a dado and rabbit with it with no problem. And yes, 2 MFT's would handle a sheet of ply nicely. However, you will need to remove the accessory pieces to lay a full sheet on it and be fully supported. Have fun with your project. You're likely going to be hooked on Festool after this purchase. Luckily, you have already joined a support group.
Aaron Hinni
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I'd recommend starting with the TS55/MFT and then another festool tool/dust extractor combo (say the OF1010 and CT 26). Others here will be able to offer you better advice, but the OF1010 and CT 22 have served me quite well for similar types of projects.
For cutting down full sheets of plywood, I put them on a sacrificial piece of 4x8 foam insulation board that you can pick up at the big box stores. I just put the foam piece on my garage floor, then the plywood on top and do all of my larger cuts. No awkward heavy lifting required. Once it is cut into manageable sizes, I take those pieces into my shop and do the final cuts (if necessary) on the MFT.
I would also recommend getting some longer guide rails. I have a FS 2700 - 106" for ripping 8' long plywood and a FS 1500 - 55" for cross cuts. I'd suggest getting the 55" guide rail with the holes in it, in case you ever get a LR 32.
For cutting down full sheets of plywood, I put them on a sacrificial piece of 4x8 foam insulation board that you can pick up at the big box stores. I just put the foam piece on my garage floor, then the plywood on top and do all of my larger cuts. No awkward heavy lifting required. Once it is cut into manageable sizes, I take those pieces into my shop and do the final cuts (if necessary) on the MFT.
I would also recommend getting some longer guide rails. I have a FS 2700 - 106" for ripping 8' long plywood and a FS 1500 - 55" for cross cuts. I'd suggest getting the 55" guide rail with the holes in it, in case you ever get a LR 32.
Welcome to the FOG. I am a newer member like you and started with a TS55REQ almost a year ago and recently purchased an OF1400. Both have worked very well for me. Currently using a Shop Vac with an 1.5 inch hose for dust extraction that works very well for me until i can upgrade. I use a HEPA filter inside the Shop Vac to provide better filtration. My next project will be Tim Wilmots MFTC since i can not justify the MFT.
Ivanhoe
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Lots of good info so far, especially breaking down the ply with the foam insulation. - My .02 would be- one word REPEATABILITY...
Once you have your measurements for your carcass, make a story stick or if you have some parallel guides set them so all cuts with the same measurements use this/these guide(s) to align your rail to make the cuts. It will help you keep things consistent and you won't be relying on tape measures,pencil lines...etc. You will also need a reliable square(s) when you assemble the carcass. Lastly, once the carcass is assembled (without any cross braces - just a basic 4 sided box) measure the outside diagonals and adjust the carcass to get it in square. You will need clamps, and or a helping hand here. (Also remember pythagorean theorem A2 + B2 = C2 to calculate this distance) Hope this wasn't too much and or something you already knew but these small insights helped me when I first started. Did I mention you will need clamps? ;D Also, take a look at Ron Paulk's work table- I believe it to be a better alternative to 2 MFTs... He has a great video on breaking down sheet goods with it for making cabinets.
Once you have your measurements for your carcass, make a story stick or if you have some parallel guides set them so all cuts with the same measurements use this/these guide(s) to align your rail to make the cuts. It will help you keep things consistent and you won't be relying on tape measures,pencil lines...etc. You will also need a reliable square(s) when you assemble the carcass. Lastly, once the carcass is assembled (without any cross braces - just a basic 4 sided box) measure the outside diagonals and adjust the carcass to get it in square. You will need clamps, and or a helping hand here. (Also remember pythagorean theorem A2 + B2 = C2 to calculate this distance) Hope this wasn't too much and or something you already knew but these small insights helped me when I first started. Did I mention you will need clamps? ;D Also, take a look at Ron Paulk's work table- I believe it to be a better alternative to 2 MFTs... He has a great video on breaking down sheet goods with it for making cabinets.
Acrobat
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Hi and welcome to the FOG.
I'd look at the OF1400. I have the 1010 and it's a fantastic light and easily handled router for just about all my needs but it cannot take larger 1/2 inch shaft bits whereas the 1400 can. If only 1 router I'd make it the 1400. Still on my list!
One MFT is sufficient and you can easily use cheaper saw horses or other tables to lay down large sheets but if money is no object then by all means get a second. From what i've read alot of people love the usefulness of two.
A longer rail, (also on my list) is something I think you'll wish you had at some stage.. Get the 1400 rail with the holes instead of standard rail for any future cabinet making LR32 holes capability, as you'll want to do that at some stage.
The vacs are MUST. A midi with standard 27mm hose is fine for most applications except where you plane of larger chips, then you'd be looking at a ct26 with 36mm hose or 50mm hose to stop any blockages.
Domino joiner after those...
Enjoy the ride, she's a long slope
I'd look at the OF1400. I have the 1010 and it's a fantastic light and easily handled router for just about all my needs but it cannot take larger 1/2 inch shaft bits whereas the 1400 can. If only 1 router I'd make it the 1400. Still on my list!
One MFT is sufficient and you can easily use cheaper saw horses or other tables to lay down large sheets but if money is no object then by all means get a second. From what i've read alot of people love the usefulness of two.
A longer rail, (also on my list) is something I think you'll wish you had at some stage.. Get the 1400 rail with the holes instead of standard rail for any future cabinet making LR32 holes capability, as you'll want to do that at some stage.
The vacs are MUST. A midi with standard 27mm hose is fine for most applications except where you plane of larger chips, then you'd be looking at a ct26 with 36mm hose or 50mm hose to stop any blockages.
Domino joiner after those...
Enjoy the ride, she's a long slope
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