Newbie help please

[TahoeTwoBears]

So, I'm an old wannabe woodworker from the days of the Whole Earth Catalog and James Krenov's "A Cabinetmaker's Notebook". All work and no play and no woodworking experience either. Discovered Festool and have acquired the TS55 and MFT 1080, the planer, 2 sanders, CT-22, the D-handle jigsaw, and am waiting for my 1400 router. Trying to replace many of my old tools and my wife love's the Systainers. No workshop, just have to set up outside or in part of a small crowded 1 car garage. Life is good.

So my first dumb question has to do with the type of foam I've seen mentioned throughout the site. Can anyone tell me what to use as a sacrificial layer instead of cutting the table?

Just a quick funny note: Recently we had a good sized fire here in South Lake Tahoe. It started near our house. In our panic to pack and evacuate, we were madly grabbing things. At one point we wound up in the garage. We both looked at the stack of Systainers and my wife moved toward them, telling me we could fit them in the truck. I agreed. We both stopped and had a good laugh when we realized what we were doing. They could be bought again, many other things could not. Still, it showed where our priorities were.........

 

[Brice Burrell]

Tahoe, you can use any kind of rigid foam insulation. It can be use right on the ground, saw horses or on top of a cutting table.

 

[TahoeTwoBears]

Brice,

Thanks, I appreciate the help.

Mike

 

[Greg in Memphis]

Hey Tahoe
Welcome to Festools and this site also.
I'm a little new around here also.
I started out using 3/8" piece of plywood between the MFT and my TS 75. It's tough enough and also thick enough so you still have 9 1/2 mm of grace before the blade touches the tabletop. You dont necessarily have to use a whole sheet, you can cut 2 or 3 strips with 1 strip under the kerf. This, I think, is a good beginners sacrificial board.
I tried some of that pink, closed cell foam that some have been talking about for a sacrificial piece. We have a mountain of it at work (outside, by the dumpster) from unpacking electronic equipment that comes in. It works alright I guess, but hell, it's pink.
Here's something that may help...
Lately I have been using 1/4" sheets of luann panelling from Lowe's. I went in there looking for something cheap to cut over and I saw some luann panelling that was light,water-repellent, and reletively cheap ($9.95 for a 8x4 sheet). While looking at the top few sheets of the luann, I noticed that some of the sheets on the top of the stack were boogered up on the very edge from the mill. Not very good for any customer wanting panelling. As a matter of fact Lowe's would probably scrap it or cut it down in size eventually.
I called a guy over and asked how much they wanted for a scratch and dent discount. I bought 3 sheets at $5 a pop and had them cut twelve 48x24 pieces. They usually make cuts for free if you buy the wood and it's not so busy.

We're all glad to hear your family and your Festools all made it out okay.

Have fun

Greg

 

[brandon.nickel]

Due to the holes in the top of hte MFT being a key part of its usefulness, you will eventually break down and slice a kerf in the top.  Just make sure to set your blade depth so it doesn't hit the rails.  If you always set the crosscut fence and guide rail in the same place, you'll only have one kerf.  There are several threads here that discuss ways of replacing the top without paying the ~$80 that Festool wants for one.  Those holes are one of hte best parts of the MFT, so you won't want to cover them up.

As for cutting anywhere else, the pink foam is a great way to go.  You'll want at least 1" deep.  More would be better.  In order to take advantage of the splinterguard, you'll need to have ~24mm of total plunge.  If you're cutting 3/4" it works out ok, but if you're ripping 1/4" veneer plywood, you'll want to either cut it with the good side down or use a thicker piece of foam in order to get enough plunge to make the splinter guard work.  Pink foam is also easy on the knees when you're ripping down that lumber.

 

[Warrior]

1/8" or 1/4" hardboard works sweet as a sacrificial top on the mft.
Its super cheap, holds up well and with the rough side up the piece you cut doesnt slide around.

 

[Brent b]

Hey TTB, that's a good wife you got there!!  Smart lady! 

If I we're prone to giving advice, which I am, then I would suggest you view the top of the MFT as that new, gleaming white pair of tenny's that you just got.  You know their going to get dirty eventually, so instead of devoting cognitive energy to keeping them pristine go out and play in the mud a bit.  You'll be able to relax and really use it for how it's been designed, as a replacable, sacrificial top. 
I think that the foam that is oft times mentioned is in regards to setting up a cutting table to break down 4x8 sheets of whatever.  Using the 1080 to cut down a full sheet is awkward , so if you haven't already you'll have to set something up, sawhorses or the floor, to beak down the sheet to smaller MFT sized pieces for final cutting.  Mine consist of 3 2x10 over two sets of Stanley plastic sawhorses, on top of the 2x10's (laid flat) I place a sheet of 1/2" OSB, and over that I place a 1" thick sheet of rigid foam.  Kind of a production but it gives me a nice flat table which is important nice clean cuts, especially anything beveled.

So my first dumb question

  I think it's safe to say the only dumb question is the one left unasked.

Brent 

 

[Michael Kellough]

1/8" or 1/4" hardboard works sweet as a sacrificial top on the mft.
Its super cheap, holds up well and with the rough side up the piece you cut doesnt slide around.

And you need something in that thickness range if you plan to cut thin materials just to build up enough thickness for the guide rail to rest on the work piece.