Next Festool purchase

pugilato

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2011
Messages
579
I am plotting my next Festool purchase, and am leaning towards the MFT table.  Main usage would be for crosscuts, but I have read in some reviews that you need to check square on the table frequently.  That pretty much defeats the purpose that I am thinking about, but I want to get y'alls comments before I change gears to the next best thing.
 
I do find that I need to square my tables (both of them the older MFTs)  more often than I had expected.   :(  

But, it is quite easy to square things and there are a number of different ways to do so.  [smile]
 
I just got on a week ago and use the snot out of it already. [smile]

I leave the fence on and take the rail on and off, and have used the rail and fence as my square for building drawer boxes...... a bunch of $$$ for a table! lol.
but I am happy with the tool and already have been able to clamp/build things that were not possible for me before, as I don't have a designated shop bench.

*edit..  it also is  a great scaffold/ ladder. great for high and out of reach things in a 9' ceiling.  [wink]
 
I was hoping to see more replies from members. I am an employee of Festool, so take my feedback as such.  The older MFT (800/1080 models) were more prone to being knocked out of square with repeated use, like the one Frank has. The newer MFT/3 models have addressed this issue. We have 8 or more MFT/3's in our training facility in Indianapolis that get used a LOT and I don't think Sedge, our trainer, has ever re-squared them except when the fence or rail have been removed. If you leave the hardware in place, then I think you'll find it stays quite square, even with a lot of use.

Come on MFT/3 owners, where are you at? Speak up, whether you agree with my statements or not.

Granted I'm not a professional and mine only gets occasional use, but I've never needed to re-square it.

Edit: Oops, I meant to mention our 30-day money back guarantee. Just remember if you order online, you will be responsible for shipping the product back if you return it.
 
I agree Shane, with the fence square and the axillary fence clamp that baby ain't moving!

Thanks Peter! I bought the RO 90 at the same time  [crying] on the wallet, but that thing is simply fantastic, I have never had a sander with that much attitude and can be very smooth with the flip of a switch.

 
I to agree, with the use of my Table I have only have to square my guide after it has been removed and replaced.
I use one of my table as a jig set up for squaring my raised panel door assemblies.
I have to say I am some what happy and impressed with my MFT/3 Tables.
They have made my work some much easier in a one man shop environment

Besides Qwas Dogs make life even easier when you need to square up the table and guide
 
Sorry, I just got back from a meeting and have been catching up.

The MFT/3 - in my situation - gets used more than I would ever have imagined.  Like many I scoffed at the idea of a pricey table with a bunch of holes in it.  Been doing carpentry for a long time and never needed something like this before.

Then I read here a review by our old friend Per Swenson on the MFT/3 for the finish carpenter.  I sat back and looked at it in a different light.  As a finish carpenter my main tool has been a miter saw.  But I never was real happy with the cuts on wide boards.  I really didn't have a good place to clamp things.  Cutting an 18 inch board square was an issue.

My MFT/3 plus my Kapex gives me the ability to handle 97% of what I will encounter and need on a daily basis without carrying a table saw.  It is great.

Squaring it is easy.  But once you are set, you should rarely need to do it again.  Lots of great videos here.  My MFT gets rough treatment - it is not pretty.  In fact if we had an ugly MFT contest I would be in the running.

If I had to give up my Domino or my MFT/3, I would have a table.

It is fun finding new ways to use it.

Peter
 
pugilato said:
I am plotting my next Festool purchase, and am leaning towards the MFT table.  Main usage would be for crosscuts, but I have read in some reviews that you need to check square on the table frequently.  That pretty much defeats the purpose that I am thinking about, but I want to get y'alls comments before I change gears to the next best thing.

If you have a pair of dogs (I loves me my qwas dogs)... it takes all of 15 seconds to check for square for the rail, and another 15 to check for square on the mitre gauge thing-a-ma-jigger.  So, if 30 seconds every so often is going to cramp your style, maybe the MFT isn't for you.  If that's not a big deal, then in the words of the internet kiddies these days "pwns face" (it rules).
 
Peter Halle said:
The MFT/3 - in my situation - gets used more than I would ever have imagined.  Like many I scoffed at the idea of a pricey table with a bunch of holes in it.

Peter

I have to agree - I had a real problem imagining that this funky table-thing could compare to my old hard-maple workbench with the heavy steel vise. I mostly bought it to use for cutting with the TS 55.

I have ended up using it for about everything other than hand planing, it is a bit shaky for that. I originally thought it would be a PITA to be constantly swapping out between the guide rail for cutting and the clamps for sanding/drilling, etc but in reality it is very easy and natural.

The only real complaint I have is that the front support for the guide rail is tailor made to catch on the shop apron I wear, I am constantly getting grabbed by it.
 
Pugilato, we have three MFT's, and like Peter I said the first time I saw one in the store  "Are you kidding me....??"

But, we now find them to be indispensable sometimes on our  jobsites, and they have enabled me to make cuts, plane boards, etc more safely than what I have done before (at times, some stupid stuff).

I find them easy enough to adjust.  We move them a lot, so they do get knocked about a bit.  But we've never had a problem with them.
 
What purpose are you thinking about?  What would you consider too frequently?  When it comes to panels for case work, I check the squareness of most squaring crosscuts and many of the to-length crosscuts with a large square.  I enjoy it actually.  And I do it no matter what method I'm using because my methods don't include anything that would remotely impress an offshoring consultant.  So, for me, productivity is secondary to having a good time.  I'd check a base cabinet side for square even if a ShopBot handed it to me and said, "Here, this is prefect."  

Your purpose requires that you not check crosscuts for squareness before assembly?  Sounds like a manufacturing environment.  That's pretty demanding for anything short of computerized stuff and I've heard that even then sometimes the robots get nervous and sneak out a square when the programmers aren't looking.

And what would the next best thing be?  A vertical panel saw?  A sliding table saw?  A CNC router?  I wish I could convince myself I needed a sliding table saw, though I don't know where I'd put it.  Maybe under a tent out back.  Do they have 3 phase extension cords?  As it is I have a hard time convincing myself not to downgrade my cabinet saw.  I haven't crosscut a full sheet of plywood on my table saw in four years.  Wait a minute.  Wait just a minute.  Come to think of it I've NEVER crosscut a full sheet of plywood on the saw I have now!  So what's the point in that long metal tube thing sticking way out on the right?  That's not part of the fence is it?  And that wooden part behind the tube that's attached to the cast iron?  That part there with the spindly legs at the end.  What's it for?  I've never used it.  It's totally useless.  Well no, not totally, I do have some boards sitting on it that otherwise would have to be on the floor.  (This really is true, at this very instant there are a bunch of boards on the extension table and they've been there for weeks.  I should include a photo.)

I can produce parts cheaper than I can source them in the quantities I need.  And these parts are made with my TS55, guides, MFT, Domino, hole jig for my 1400, and all the little gizmos for edge banding that the FastCap guy tricked me into buying.  And the sources I've looked at for flat packed case parts employ so much automation that I don't think humans are allowed on the premises.  Plus, I'm buying 15 to 25 sheets at a time.  They are buying whole forests at one shot.  I can hear the exec on the phone now, "Okay we have a big run of frameless parts to make, better go ahead and buy Oregon.  No, just the western half for now."

Give the MFT a try.  I don't think there is a "next best thing" at anywhere near the return on investment .  Including the other track saw systems.  And here's something else to consider.  If the MFT bridge and fence does happen to work itself out of square it's so easy and fast to fix that a CNC robot who only knows how to go up and down and left and right could do it.
 
Plan to buy a large square or triangle if you don't already own one as an accessory to the MFT/3.  It does go out of alignment and you will want to take the fence and rail off to use it for all your other needs. 
 
Kevin Stricker said:
Plan to buy a large square or triangle if you don't already own one as an accessory to the MFT/3.  It does go out of alignment and you will want to take the fence and rail off to use it for all your other needs.  

I am sincerely not sure what I'm missing...

The MFT/3 comes with a protractor for the fence that is presumably used as the mechanism to perform square cuts and various angled  cuts. If one sets the Guide Rail where one wants it, setting up the Fence is as easy as turning the Protractor or Angle Unit such that the Fence is "parallel to the Guide Rail". Slide the whole assembly over toward the Guide Rail's position so that a defined "gap gauge" can be used for the adjustment.

It really doesn't matter what you use for the "gap gauge". You just have to adjust so that opposite ends are the same.

The easy way to set this up is not to rely on expensive external equipment but to use what you already bought from Festool and is already highly accurate.

As with any attempt at accuracy, the more external elements and translations one can eliminate, the more one moves toward accuracy.

Tom
 
Tom,

I can tell you this about my MFT/3.  The protractor has the slightest amount of play when the pin is in the zero degree slot.  I checked it with my 12" Woodpeckers triangle and I'm able to move the miter bar, almost an imperceivable amount to the eye, but it shows with the triangle against the guide rail and translates to what I consider either a critical or non-critical cut depending on how much I really care about the miter gauge being at a perfect 90 degree to the guide rail for the cut I'm making.  Maybe it's just mine or maybe that's within Festool's tolerances.  Don't know?
 
I completely agree, Ken, that there is a certain amount of play in the system. I'm not suggesting that it's even possible to make a tool that has no imperfection.

What I am suggesting is that one has to understand what the imperfections are, how great they can potentially be based on the manufacturers methods, and how to work with or around them.

I was only suggestiing that introducing another manufacturer's imperfections adds to the tolerance stack.

Tom
 
Tom Bellemare said:
I completely agree, Ken, that there is a certain amount of play in the system. I'm not suggesting that it's even possible to make a tool that has no imperfection.

What I am suggesting is that one has to understand what the imperfections are, how great they can potentially be based on the manufacturers methods, and how to work with or around them.

I was only suggestion that introducing another manufacturer's imperfections adds to the tolerance stack.

Tom

How true!  ...and remember, we're working with wood, not metal.  At some point you have to say it's close enough.
 
Peter Halle said:
Sorry, I just got back from a meeting and have been catching up.

The MFT/3 - in my situation - gets used more than I would ever have imagined.  Like many I scoffed at the idea of a pricey table with a bunch of holes in it.  Been doing carpentry for a long time and never needed something like this before.

Then I read here a review by our old friend Per Swenson on the MFT/3 for the finish carpenter.  I sat back and looked at it in a different light.  As a finish carpenter my main tool has been a miter saw.  But I never was real happy with the cuts on wide boards.  I really didn't have a good place to clamp things.  Cutting an 18 inch board square was an issue.

My MFT/3 plus my Kapex gives me the ability to handle 97% of what I will encounter and need on a daily basis without carrying a table saw.  It is great.

Squaring it is easy.  But once you are set, you should rarely need to do it again.  Lots of great videos here.  My MFT gets rough treatment - it is not pretty.  In fact if we had an ugly MFT contest I would be in the running.If I had to give up my Domino or my MFT/3, I would have a table.

It is fun finding new ways to use it.

Peter

peter you start a thread for this (not a contest but just for the sake of it) to see the most used and abused mft tops
 
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