Noob How-To (First of many)

[Gernblanston]

First time FOG poster here. I've been amazed at the incredible level of sharing here so I am not too concerned about asking some dumb questions so here comes the first:

After a couple of months of research, I started the FT plunge, purchasing a carvex 420 and MFT. I am just starting my woodworking and opted for a carvex rather than a TS55 because (for now) the things I want to build are fairly small, not requiring lots of long cuts in materials (building small speaker cabinets and other electronic equipment boxes). I figured the versatility of a jigsaw was better until I start building larger projects with larger volumes of cuts. So... That's being said;

1. On the MFT, The carvex attaches to the "inside" of the rail and I'd like to "flip" the rail so it's on the outside. I know that the rail stops installed at the factory are set to square and I want to make sure that I properly recalibrate them.

2. What should I use to elevate the material I am cutting as it won't be hanging off the edge of the table.  I saw a video (can't find it now) where the user put something like foam insulation under the workpiece? Should I just elevate it with bench cookies?

Any guidance would be appreciated. Also, any comments on my choice for an initial cutting tool are welcome. Lastly, what should my next purchase be (aside from dust collection).

 

[RC]

Welcome to FOG, the place for great advice and a slippery slope to Festooliganisn [emoji6]

A jigsaw wouldn't be my first choise for cutting straight pieces like box sides, but I guess you can get serviceable cuts on the rail with a Carvex 420.

Watch out how far the jigsaw blade extends when at its lowest point and adjust the elevation accordingly.

You can also remove the guide rail from the MFT easily and move the cutting over the edge. Just draw a straight line offset by the rail attachment width of your Carvex to align the guiderail and then cut away.

The MFT's holes are CNC milled so you can get a couple of Parf Dogs for alignment anywhere on the table so you aren't limited to the factory flip-stops.

I would find a used TS55 to do the straight cutting and depending how much of box making you are planing on doing look into a small Domino DF500 for easy joinery.

 

[xtrememtnbiker]

First time FOG poster here. I've been amazed at the incredible level of sharing here so I am not too concerned about asking some dumb questions so here comes the first:

After a couple of months of research, I started the FT plunge, purchasing a carvex 420 and MFT. I am just starting my woodworking and opted for a carvex rather than a TS55 because (for now) the things I want to build are fairly small, not requiring lots of long cuts in materials (building small speaker cabinets and other electronic equipment boxes). I figured the versatility of a jigsaw was better until I start building larger projects with larger volumes of cuts. So... That's being said;

1. On the MFT, The carvex attaches to the "inside" of the rail and I'd like to "flip" the rail so it's on the outside. I know that the rail stops installed at the factory are set to square and I want to make sure that I properly recalibrate them.

2. What should I use to elevate the material I am cutting as it won't be hanging off the edge of the table.  I saw a video (can't find it now) where the user put something like foam insulation under the workpiece? Should I just elevate it with bench cookies?

Any guidance would be appreciated. Also, any comments on my choice for an initial cutting tool are welcome. Lastly, what should my next purchase be (aside from dust collection).

For the carvex on the guide rail, I assume you mean that you want to spin the guide rail 180° so the the splinter strip is facing the left instead of the right as you look at the table from the front. My MFT is at the jobsite but it seems you would be able to leave the feather keys (the stops with the hex head bolt) in place and remove the mounting brackets for the rail and spin it 180° and re-install. That way you wouldn't mess up the factory squaring of the feather keys.

Lots of us cut with foam underneath the work piece to protect the surface we are cutting on. I use 2" foam available in a 4x8 sheet from a box store. With the jigsaw though that might be tricky to not cut into the top as it sounds like you want to leave the rail over the MFT vs having the jigsaw cutting off the MFT.

The next tool purchase is totally up to you. Depends on what you're doing. TS55 is a great saw and I would much rather use that or a miter saw to cut straight lines on anything. The jigsaw work around could get frustrating and not the most time effective. I'm fairly new to Festool and have many purchases left!!

 

[Gernblanston]

Thanks for the comments!  I got a piece of 24x24 foam at HD and am going to make some cuts this afternoon.  If its really problematic, I might exchange the Carvex and get the TS55 and a CT-Mini.  I'll keep you posted.

 

[GBCarpentry]

The next tool purchase is totally up to you. Depends on what you're doing. TS55 is a great saw and I would much rather use that or a miter saw to cut straight lines on anything. The jigsaw work around could get frustrating and not the most time effective. I'm fairly new to Festool and have many purchases left!!
[/quote]

I agree with the above quote. The MFT really is designed for the plunge saw. This would be my first choice for making speaker boxes,small and medium carcasses. I'd then use my psc420 jigsaw for all the cutouts, it's great at cutting circles. The psc420 is really more than just a jigsaw and i am continuously gobsmacked at how great it is. But it's not a plunge saw. I do this for a living by the way as well as lots of other stuff made out of wood.

 

[mouppe]

I'd get the TS55 instead of the jig-saw, combine it with a dust extractor and get 10% off the package! I think you'll get way more benefit from the TS55, especially since you have an MFT.

 

[sancho57]

FT is a system. IMO the core of the system is the MFT, CT and TS 55. plus some clamps. Other then those the rest of the system depends entirely on what you want to build.

 

[peter halle]

First,

Welcome to the FOG and the world of Festool.  I would have to agree that based on what your first anticipated usages are that a TS-55 saw might be a better fit than a Carvex (with the exception of cutting circular holes for speakers of course.)  A MFT could easily slide in and aid in sizing, accurate cutting, and clamping.  Dust collection definitely has a place especially long term.

Peter

 

[Acrobat]

My guide for the carvex does not fit tight on the rail, with no adjustment being able to be made. For some reason the attachment is made this way, for the life of me I don't know why. So you will need to take extra care there anyway. My call would be to not get the carvex but rather the TS55 for straight cuts which is probably the main use you need for boxes.