Not Understanding

[Dean Pilatti]

Firstly thank you for this message board. I am very new to wood working and this is my first post.... But the information i receive from just reading ever ones experiences is better than any books i go through!

So to my question i am about to start a project of carriage doors and i know that there is a lot of information on this topic but why is it on these doors people do not put in Z frame supports in there designs? there are some doors with them in but the majority of them are excluded!!!! So in this case what is stopping the doors from Sagging? I will be making my doors from Oak and will be using the XL for the Majority of the joins. Could some also point me in a direction to look at the construction of a two way mortise and tenon if i decide to go with the Z support?  The span of each door is 1.75m.

Thank you in advance for your advise.
Dean

 

[Alan m]

welcome to the fog.
im not sure what the answer is but it is unusual. most of the ledged and braced doors are not morticed and tennoned together  but just nailed . theM+T will help hold every thing together

 

[PaulMarcel]

[welcome]

Ou bienvenue au FOG.

Just curious which Oak you will be using?  Red Oak would be a bad choice; White Oak is much better outside.  If you're painting it, it wouldn't matter, but then you would likely not use Oak.

There are many great examples of carriage doors on this site including one made with the XL.  Might use those for inspiration.

 

[tjbnwi]

As Paul pointed out, white oak. For best results use quater sawn.

Info on quater sawn;

http://www.frankmiller.com/

Tom

 

[Stone Message]

Hello Dean

French oak would be a brilliant material for your project. I used it for a kitchen rebuild - it was quarter sawn and expensive but the results are well worth it.

I used the XL700 to secure the cross brace in a pedestrian gate project and it worked well. Make everything up and dry assemble in order to scribe the lines for all of your domino joints. Whilst it is clamped up dry (and square) make the cross brace to fit exactly where it should go. Then mark the positions of the dominos to secure the brace. You have to make sure that the position of the dominos in the cross brace diagonal jointing face are such that you can make the joint without the Domino slot cutting all the way through - watch your fingers just in case!

In order to make this work you have to have the joining face of the cross brace against the vertical styles of your gate or door. Then when you are ready to glue up you put all of the dominos into the rails and the cross piece. You then bring the styles in from either side. In this way the gluing up requires clamping pressure across the gate or door to close all of the joints.

I found that I had to use a bit of ingenuity to bring the cross brace in tight by putting a clamp on the end of the cross brace to give a clamping point for a second clamp to be used to draw the joint closed.

I am sorry that I have no pictures to show - everything is on my big PC which is packed away whilst we do a major overhaul of the house. If you subscribe to the UK magazine 'The Woodworker' you should see the whole project next month.

Peter