OF 1400 and routing with a guide rail

[Charles Wilson]

I posted this a while ago and could not find answer.  As a result, I am posting again.  Sorry.

When using the OF 1400, guide rail, and guide rail attachment, how do you set the depth of the router bit when plunging dados.  I think that I found the answer on page 10 of Rick C's manual but wanted to make sure.

Regards,
Chuck

 

[bruegf]

Chuck,

I do the following:

With the guide rail attachment affixed to the router and the router and guide rail attachment sitting correctly on the guide rail and the depth stop lever unlocked, plunge the router gently until the bit just touches the surface of the material. 

Lock the router in this position.  Slide the black index pointer down to the 0 position on the plunge depth scale. 

Raise the depth stop rod until the index pointer reads the desired depth and lock the depth stop lever.

Release the plunge lock knob and you're ready to go.

Fred

 

[tbellemare]

Chuck:

The guide rail should add 3 mm to the depth and you will want to use the Router Support to stay level. This assumes that you have the router base riding on the guide rail. You won't necessarily have the router on the guide rail just because you are using the guide rail stop.

What Fred says is the way to "index" the bit no matter how you are using the router.

Whatever you have the router sitting on, "gently" plunge the router until the bit just touches the work piece, or a reasonable facsimle thereof, and set the depth gauge on the router to zero. Then use the same depth gauge to set your ultimate plunge depth on the shortest of the three posts in the turret and lock it in. The user guide that comes with the router has a reasonably good explanation of the procedure.

The other two posts on the depth turret are useful if you want to make partial depth cuts, and they are adjustable. Depending on what you are cutting and with what you are cutting, they can be your friend.

Tom

 

[Charles Wilson]

Thanks for the response. 

That is what I thought but was just looking for confirmation.  I thank you for taking it easy on me in answering the question.  Everyone isn't so understanding/tactful in dealing with us rookies.

Chuck

 

[bill-e]

Some people, myself included, also use gauge blocks to set the depth of the router.  To do that, as stated above, plunge the router until it touches the work and lock it in that position.  Then loosen the lever on the depth stop and drop it onto a suitable post on the turret.  Now just use your gauge block like a feeler gauge between the turret and depth stop and lock the depth stop.  You'll now plunge that exact amount.

 

[Charles Wilson]

Some people, myself included, also use gauge blocks to set the depth of the router.  To do that, as stated above, plunge the router until it touches the work and lock it in that position.  Then loosen the lever on the depth stop and drop it onto a suitable post on the turret.  Now just use your gauge block like a feeler gauge between the turret and depth stop and lock the depth stop.  You'll now plunge that exact amount.

Was thinking of the gauge blocks myself on the way home from church this morning. 

Thanks Bill.

Chuck

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

Bill's gauge block method is also more accurate than the gauge markings on the router and easily repeatable.  You can buy a set of brass gauge blocks from Woodcraft, but I just go to the local lowes or hardware store and buy one of each size of the steel keys for keyway slts on motors and sheves. There are usually about 7 sizes starting at 1/8" and going to 1/2" and they cost less than the brass sets.  Of course you can also mill your own blocks out of hardwood or your other favorite material using your woodworking equipment too.

Best,
Todd