OF 2200, can you dig it?

Electric Trim

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Mar 17, 2011
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Just bought mine about 2 months ago and haven't even used it yet!    [unsure]  I haven't had any jobs lately that required much routing otherwise I'd probably be wearing it out.  [sad] We had a job last year that I probably would have put about 4 hours of continuous use per day on it for a month, but I wasn't exactly set up for Festool Mania at that point.

What kind of stuff do you guys use the 2200 for?
 
I have the OF2200 and the OF1010 and use the OF2200 for applications that would be too heavy for the 1010

On the joinery side I use it for chewing out lock recesses in doors or other applications that I cant easily do on the shaper.

Kitchen fitting it is used all the time for all types of worktops, laminated, wood or solid surface.

It has absolutely amazing power and the additional bases are a must have accessory (IMHO) 
 
I have the 1010, the 1400, and the 2200.  I use routers a lot and usually with pretty complicated setups.  I'm mostly doing furniture making and for those tasks, there are few if any things the 1400 can't handle.  I like the 2200 a lot, though for its power and stability and occasionally when I have a really deep mortise to hack out its the go-to router.  Honestly, the bottom line is that I use the 2200 mostly when the 1400 is dedicated to something else.  I probably could have gotten by cheaper, but its nice to know that extra heft is there if I need it.
 
I know the router is able to plow through about anything but I wonder about the durability of router bits being able to keep up with the speed and heat that this router is able to maintain.  Have you guys found that your bits are able to keep up with the performance of the 2200.
 
My recent spiral bits come from Vortex Tools.  A CNC guy turned me on to their tools since I was looking for an oddball size for a project.  They have very nice bits.  Remember that these are designed to run long hours in a router at high speed plowing through material quickly.  Look at the feet-per-minute ratings on these bits; some even require 40k rpm for their speeds.  While some of the bits are too specialized (like the ones made for outrageous speeds), it's fun to read about them.  I hadn't seen spiral dovetail bits before either.

Remember you have the vac on (you do don't you!?!) which will help cool the bit, too.
 
Like many of us FOG members, I own Festool MFK 700, OF 1010, OF1400 and OF2200.

Actually I own several MFK 700 and OF1010. Last week I bought a second OF2200. I love the smooth action and weight of the OF2200, which soaks up the feeling of vibration in use. The fact is that almost always when I reach for a router bit or cutter with a 1/2" shank I use an OF2200.

Since I started using routers in the late 1940s my policy has always been to buy the best quality available. Many of my 1/2" shank bits and cutters go back to before I bought my first OF2200. My feeling is that the OF2200 is easier on bits than other 2000+ watt routers mostly because the bearings are more substantial than other brands. The less vibration in the router beatings the longer the bit will last. Given that the total value of all my 1/2" shank bits and cutters equals the list price of many OF2200, I do not begrudge the price of this router.

Besides a big tilting arbor shaper with power feed, I own two router tables, using PC router motors of about the same power as the OF2200. Those PC routers are fairly new and I replace them before they show wear and slop in the bearings. Many times I have communicated to Festool that if they sold just the router head without the base of the OF2200 I would buy those for my router tables.

Most of the bits and cutters I use for my CNC nested router have 1/2" shanks. They are designed to run at higher rpm that the OF2200. CNC bits and cutters are designed to be fed by power at constant rate as programmed. They cost far more than standard router bits. My experience is that they are at risk when used in normal routers. I have a policy of not using CNC bits in the OF2200 and not using ordinary bits in the CNC machines.
 
I use mine for just about everything...it is my only Festool router so far.  I do a lot of deep mortising and grooves and it just plows through the cuts without a whimper.  Its heft is actually a benefit in my book as it is very smooth and lacks vibration -- this translates into smoother cuts without chatter.  I also think this is one of the most stable routers out there IMHO.  Heck, you can even swing shaper size cutters hand-held and you actually do that in the Festool Router class to demonstrate the smoothness and power of this machine. 

Scot
 
Scot and I were in the same Advance Router class in Henderson, NV in November 2010. My class work partner had bought an OF2200 which he had not used.

The class gave him confidence to go home and put his OF2200 to use.

I had seen videos of using large cutters on the OF2200. Frankly I still believe normally those should be used on a router table. However, with Steve Bace and Brian Sedgeley coaching all of us, like Scot and the others I not only used those big cutters, I found I enjoy doing so.

The cabinet maker working for me who specializes in face frames, doors and drawer fronts is our prime user of the shaper and router tables. He already owned an OF2200 when he joined my firm. Since he will have different cutters on both of the router tables, and another set of knives in the shaper, he often uses his and one of my OF2200 free hand (or with bearing guides) to avoid changing bits and set-ups. This is why I just bought he new OF2200, so when I need it I have that available without slowing frame or door production.

Probably the OF1400 has enough power to make those cuts, but with the lighter weight, I would not consider doing so to be prudent.
 
PaulMarcel said:
My recent spiral bits come from Vortex Tools.  A CNC guy turned me on to their tools since I was looking for an oddball size for a project.  They have very nice bits.  Remember that these are designed to run long hours in a router at high speed plowing through material quickly.  Look at the feet-per-minute ratings on these bits; some even require 40k rpm for their speeds.  While some of the bits are too specialized (like the ones made for outrageous speeds), it's fun to read about them.  I hadn't seen spiral dovetail bits before either.

Remember you have the vac on (you do don't you!?!) which will help cool the bit, too.

Which Vortex bit series do you usually shop in?
 
This is a very interesting thread and timely for me (I also don't mean to hijack the thread).  So I have the OF 1400 and I have the PC 7518 in a table.  What would the OF 2200 do that these two routers can't do or do as efficiently?
 
fifo28 said:
This is a very interesting thread and timely for me (I also don't mean to hijack the thread).  So I have the OF 1400 and I have the PC 7518 in a table.  What would the OF 2200 do that these two routers can't do or do as efficiently?
There was a recent thread about 2200's under a router table and I think the consensus was that its not a good idea.  I don't think there's a Festool product that does better than a 7518 in a table.  Ccarolladams' idea about Festool selling just the router motor is interesting, though.
OF2200 in a router table thread
 
I saw that thread and that's what got me thinking.  My question though is not so much what can the OF 2200 do that's better under the table, but in general.  What can it do better that would be more difficult to do with a table or the OF 1400.
 
I've got the older of2000, used it a few weeks ago to flatten the top of my new workbench.

Ed

 
Edl, thx for pix,

so in the end, how flat was the table top?  What did you use to level the two side rails?  IMO, this is the key to flatness... 

I too am curious what tasks the 2200 performs which the 1400 is not capable of. 

 
 
JSands said:
Edl, thx for pix,

so in the end, how flat was the table top?   What did you use to level the two side rails?   IMO, this is the key to flatness... 

I too am curious what tasks the 2200 performs which the 1400 is not capable of. 

   

I did the bottom first. The glue-up was cupped evenly, so I measured from the benchtop edges up to the rails the sled rides on. Set all 4 corners as close as I could. Flattened the bottom, then flipped it over and measured from the finished bottom up to the rails, set all 4 evenly again.
One side was not square on the glue-up (see pic, left side) I didn't bother to mess with it until after I was done, it probably threw me off a little but I was happy with the end results. The top is flat within .015", top & bottom parallel within .06".

Cutter was a 1 1/4 dia mortice bit, Freud #16-108.

Ed
 
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