OF1010 Plunge "slop" with LR32 5mm bit?

[WoodWorkingEric]

Hello,
    First post from a long time lurker.  I'm working with my 1010 router trying to make a few bookshelves, and my LR32 setup is lining up great, but all my 5mm shelf pin holes are oversized.
I compared the router bit hole with a 5mm drilled hole, and the CXS drilled hole is nice and the pin stays in well.  I put the router bit in the CXS and also drilled a hole, and that worked out great.
BUT, all my routed holes are "sloppy".  A bit of experimentation shows if I tighten the plunge on the router, and plunger really slow, the hole is better, but still not as "tight"  as the CXS.

Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong would be greatly appreciated.  To put things in perspective, I'm a fairly beginner wood worker.

-Eric

 

[tiralie]

A bit of experimentation shows if I tighten the plunge on the router, and plunger really slow, the hole is better, but still not as "tight"  as the CXS.

Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong would be greatly appreciated.  To put things in perspective, I'm a fairly beginner wood worker.

-Eric\

Hi Eric:
Welcome to FOG.

A couple questions, is this a new 1010 or a used one?
What do you mean if you tighten the plunge on the router, do you mean the collet that holds the bit of is there play in the router shaft and you are tightening the grip knob?

It sounds like you are moving the router forward before the bit comes completely out of the hole which can make the hole larger. Lock the router into the on position and try to plunge straight down and then bring the router out and then move it to the next position on the LR32 slot.
Tim

 

[WoodWorkingEric]

Tim,
    I bought the router new a little under 2 years ago (it has had some work edging maple, but this is it's first use as a plunge router) .  The LR32 was bought used off of Craigslist.  I'm tightening the handle that makes it harder to plunge.  The bit is tight, and I do not feel any slop in the shaft when I try to move it side to side.  When plunging with the handle fully loose (easy to plunge) there seems to be some play in the router motor on the guide rods as it plunges, and I think this is my problem.    The router locks in nice on the track, and the LR32 base.

Thanks again for the help.

-Eric

 

[tiralie]

When plunging with the handle fully loose (easy to plunge) there seems to be some play in the router motor on the guide rods as it plunges, and I think this is my problem.

Eric:
You shouldn't have to tighten the handle that much. Keep the handle loose and push straight down on the top of the router when making your shelf holes rather than using the handle to push down on, and then let the router move up out of the hole on it's own, or at least as much as it will go.
If you are still having problems, I would take it in for service. The guide rods shouldn't have any or much play at all in them. After dropping mine several times, my guide rods are still running true...
Tim

 

[tbellemare]

Did you take the slop out between the router sled and the guide rail?

Tom

 

[WoodWorkingEric]

Tom,
    I believe it is tight.  I have the same problem with the just the router sitting on a piece of plywood for practice.  I think Tim is right and that I'm putting too much pressure on one side of the router (handle) while doing the plunge.  Tonight I'm gonna try out only pushing directly on the top of the router.  Thanks.

-Eric

 

[tbellemare]

With either the 1010 or the 1400, it works best for me if I have one hand on the sled and the other centered on the router motor.

Tom

 

[wackt]

Maybe tour collet is damaged  or there are some dirt in it. Whis could make the router bit eccentric. If the bit wobbleit will make an oversized hole.

 

[Oso Rojo]

Do you have any dial indicator equipment? I'd check the run out on the bit in the plunged mode. If you don't have the indicator, how about a right angle of some kind you can put up against the bit while you operate the plunge. (Obviously this is all with the router unplugged!)

If your bit is not straight in the vertical plane, it will cut an oversize hole. Also, you are looking for a few thousands of run out or out of alignment, so you will probably need a light behind the work to see the small misalignment.

 

[Kev]

This sounds like a centring problem to me. Off centre will result in this slop.

How "used" is the LR32 set?

Anyway - it appears there's some slop somewhere, but I doubt it's in the router itself. A clean cutter plunged in a router should give you a better hole that a drill held in your hands.

I haven't picked up an LR32 set yet, but I'll buy new to avoid potential issues like you're having [blink]

 

[sancho57]

1st- check the slop in the carriage it can move so slightly you wouldnt notice it but the pins would magnify it.

2nd check your technique. it will rock a little if you dont push down from the top of the router, even a slight lean toward right or left could throw it off.

Also how loose is it? Mine are lose enough to freely remove and replace the pins but when a shelf is placed on them they hold them nicely.

 

[WoodWorkingEric]

Happy to say it is definitely user error.  Pressing down only on the top of the router, and the holes are much better. 

Thanks for all the suggestions.  I need to keep practicing.

-Eric