In the Northern hemisphere the warmer months on here. Yea!
Any personal projects done or in the planning stages?
Would love pictures
Peter
Any personal projects done or in the planning stages?
Would love pictures
Peter
Outdoor Projects
- Thread starter peter halle
- Start date
Has anyone used lyptus for an outdoor project? I searched and found little mention of it.
Peter
Peter
I would hesitate to use it, as it's not available FSC certified, AFAIK.
There is ofcourse a good chance that Lyptus may be the perfect "green" solution, but although I'm very interested in trees and sustainable forestry ( as is to be expected, seeing I own a treecare service next to being a GC ) I think it's very hard to point out the "true" green solutions. At least there is more then a little "discussion" regarding Lyptus, the Weyerhauser corporation ( hope I spelled it right ) and sustainable forestry.
Untill that hurdle has been taken, I choose to use only wood from FSC certified sources, or wood that's harvested locally ( By me, in my "other" job ).
Far from a perfect solution, but consequently choosing FSC certified sources for lumber is a step in the right direction that enables us to vote with our wallets.
And at least it?s a small effort to minimize our ecological impact - as "First World" citizens, we not only have an obligation to take that responsibility, but also a big debt to settle.
To put it in a slightly different way: "our" wallets still scream the loudest, economywise. Let's put that vote to good use.
Just my 0,02
Regards,
Job
There is ofcourse a good chance that Lyptus may be the perfect "green" solution, but although I'm very interested in trees and sustainable forestry ( as is to be expected, seeing I own a treecare service next to being a GC ) I think it's very hard to point out the "true" green solutions. At least there is more then a little "discussion" regarding Lyptus, the Weyerhauser corporation ( hope I spelled it right ) and sustainable forestry.
Untill that hurdle has been taken, I choose to use only wood from FSC certified sources, or wood that's harvested locally ( By me, in my "other" job ).
Far from a perfect solution, but consequently choosing FSC certified sources for lumber is a step in the right direction that enables us to vote with our wallets.
And at least it?s a small effort to minimize our ecological impact - as "First World" citizens, we not only have an obligation to take that responsibility, but also a big debt to settle.
To put it in a slightly different way: "our" wallets still scream the loudest, economywise. Let's put that vote to good use.
Just my 0,02
Regards,
Job
Rob-GB said:Peter, what is Lyptus? I've not heard of it before but have worked with a large Eucalyptus Burr to make a coffee table.
43" left to right and 36" top to bottom as the picture views.
Rob.
Rob,
Lyptus is a genetic cross of two types of eucalyptus trees that is grown on tree plantations in Brazil. It has some interesting characteristics that make it a wood of promise for the future. It can be harvested at about 15 years for lumber. It also grows back from the stump.
A google search for lyptus will give a whole lot more information. I don't mean to be abrupt, it is just hard to do links and things on a phone.
Peter
EcoFurniture
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- 608
jvsteenb said:
Totally agree!
Having run www.ecofurniture.ca and managed 99% of the time to be eco friendly and sustainable , I have to admit that it wasn't easy to do so.... But if there is a will there will be a way [smile]
Anyhow, I have been working in a "normal" cabinet shop now for a about two months and I can tell you that , our trade in general, is still FAR away being sustainable.... Too much toxic crap in finishes, too much MDF and exotics. The "traditional" thinking is still too much insisted on. I have even noticed a total denial of better tools aka Festool! I'm using my tools every day in the shop and there is almost no interest in how much better Festool works compare to other major brands [eek] I have even been told not to use them anymore..... Go figure.
Cheers,
Andreas
AlexThePalex
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EcoFurniture said:
Now why would they say that? ???
Holzhacker
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- Mar 31, 2009
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DONE? Peter are you kidding? The season is just starting for us. However I do have a couple major outdoor projects that are getting started.
Japanese garden beginnings and Arbor. Bags of cement are in the garage for the arbor footings, need to dig the holes. ~ 6'+x12'+. This will be adjacent to the 5x10x3deep cement pool/pond our house came with. This will be lined and become the Koi pond. Once the arbor is done, I'll start doing the ground work, rocks, pavers, trails, etc.
The other side of the arbor will be some sort of traditional japanese garden entry area with appropriate bamboo fencing. Don't know the details, I just build what I'm told.
- ? I salvaged a bunch of 2'-4' log sections when a neighbor cut down a big tree. I want to use a chain saw and cut the logs into round pavers. Anyone have experience in how thick I should cut these? I'm thinking 2"-3". Log diameter's are 12-30". Also figuring on putting a bed of sand or something underneath. Want a house built, no problem. This outside yard work stuff I have to fake my way through.
- 2 car Garage by winter
- Arbor over sidewalk to re-rout downspouts across walk hidden inside of the arbor to other side of yard area and rain barrels
- add in the usual odds and ends
Summer fun is here. Hope everyone has a great weekend.
Markus
Japanese garden beginnings and Arbor. Bags of cement are in the garage for the arbor footings, need to dig the holes. ~ 6'+x12'+. This will be adjacent to the 5x10x3deep cement pool/pond our house came with. This will be lined and become the Koi pond. Once the arbor is done, I'll start doing the ground work, rocks, pavers, trails, etc.
The other side of the arbor will be some sort of traditional japanese garden entry area with appropriate bamboo fencing. Don't know the details, I just build what I'm told.
- ? I salvaged a bunch of 2'-4' log sections when a neighbor cut down a big tree. I want to use a chain saw and cut the logs into round pavers. Anyone have experience in how thick I should cut these? I'm thinking 2"-3". Log diameter's are 12-30". Also figuring on putting a bed of sand or something underneath. Want a house built, no problem. This outside yard work stuff I have to fake my way through.
- 2 car Garage by winter
- Arbor over sidewalk to re-rout downspouts across walk hidden inside of the arbor to other side of yard area and rain barrels
- add in the usual odds and ends
Summer fun is here. Hope everyone has a great weekend.
Markus
Markus,
Someone could have done a small project.
Regarding cutting log slices for pagers, unless the wood species is highly rot resistant, you will be doing these again before too long. With end grain on top as well as on the bottom, the wood will absorb moisture both ways and rot. My brother did the slices at my mom's house years ago. The end result was not what she expected.
Can't wait to see your progress on your ambitious projects!
Pete
Someone could have done a small project.
Regarding cutting log slices for pagers, unless the wood species is highly rot resistant, you will be doing these again before too long. With end grain on top as well as on the bottom, the wood will absorb moisture both ways and rot. My brother did the slices at my mom's house years ago. The end result was not what she expected.
Can't wait to see your progress on your ambitious projects!
Pete
EcoFurniture
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- 608
Alex said:
Afraid of learning to do things a different way? Afraid to like it? Afraid to maybe getting hooked and having to spend money on better tools?
Just yesterday I was helping my co-worker out on a job site and was working on the floor instead of my nice MFT... I was kind of frustrated to say the least. I'm not even using my Domino anymore because the "Lamello" jointer is "better" .... ???
Wood_Junkie
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- Dec 2, 2009
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Here's a project I recently finished. I started them over the winter, but my basement ceilings are two low to assemble the back in my workshop on a table. So I had to wait for spring and put on the back slats and stain it. They're the folding chair design from Lee Valley. One has bolts, one has hidden pivot roto-hinges (won't use these again).
[attachthumb=#]
And here's a project I just started and have been working on in stages. We bought this playhouse used for $400 aboug 1.5 years ago. It was pretty well taken care of, but it's showing its age. I sanded and restained the roof last spring (P-C compact belt sander... what a pain... this was pre-Festool enlightenment). This photo is about a month ago before I started the Festool spring-fling.
[attachthumb=#]
[attachthumb=#]
And here's a project I just started and have been working on in stages. We bought this playhouse used for $400 aboug 1.5 years ago. It was pretty well taken care of, but it's showing its age. I sanded and restained the roof last spring (P-C compact belt sander... what a pain... this was pre-Festool enlightenment). This photo is about a month ago before I started the Festool spring-fling.
[attachthumb=#]
CharlesWilson
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- Jan 22, 2007
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- 458
I have been using white oak for outdoor projects. The stuff is heavy, compared to cedar, but mighty strong. The wood products laboratory indicates that white oak will survive, untreated, for 30 years (as will many other woods resistant to insect damage).
I personally think it looks better with a stain, however.
Charles
I personally think it looks better with a stain, however.
Charles
Just put a temporary railing up arount my deck to keep my insurance company happy. Decking is all Cumaru and oiled with penofin. When I get my douglas fir beams then I build a permanent pergola on top.
The posts were a bunch of old shipping skids from work that I planed up and the top rail is just some 1.5 inch emt poles with a 90 in the corner. Fed some 3/16 wire rope for runners and away we go. Total material cost $150.
Lambeater.
The posts were a bunch of old shipping skids from work that I planed up and the top rail is just some 1.5 inch emt poles with a 90 in the corner. Fed some 3/16 wire rope for runners and away we go. Total material cost $150.
Lambeater.
Wood_Junkie
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- Dec 2, 2009
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It's not woodworking related, but here's the project I did this past weekend. 12 hours on Sunday; 12 hours on Monday.
My brother-in-law and his wife had a horse barn built (60 x 36), completed just a few weeks ago. They got 100A service to the barn, but I think they got an estimate to do the internal electrical work and it about stopped their heart.
Sooo.. used my veteran's discount to pickup the materials at HD a bit cheaper for 'em, and spent both days doing and directing.
One thing I like in Madison is that homeowners are allowed to do your own electical work (if you occupy the home), as long as you get substantive changes inspected. I love that as I work in my basement and think to myself 'I think an outlet up on this post would be handy to have and I'd use it frequently and I need some more recessed lights here...', and an hour later I've got wiring run, possibly a new circuit hooked up, outlet installed, lights shining, and power tools running.
I've done about 30-40 hours of electrical work in both homes we've renovated, so whilst that doesn't qualify me to do your home, my BIL thought it qualified me to do his barn. I'm sure he thought the price was just right too... my wife invoked the family handyman rate of... free. (Why do I feel like I have a pimp?)
Anyway... used 12-2 UF throughout as he wanted different circuits for each "zone" of lighting and for the utility outlets. That UF stuff is annoying to strip and took more than a few hours to get good at. And stuffing that switch box full of 12-2 was a study in 'smooshing'. All lights are vapor-proof rated. Also put two floodlights on the outside, and a dusk-to-dawn light over the "people door". All switches are in a precise order specified by BIL's wife, hehe.
Everything lit up on the first try (testing as we went), and all staples and wire runs are on the far side of the main entrance (e.g. not the 'face' side) wherever possible. We even diverted to avoid a barn swallow nest up the corner of the rafters...
The final test with everything on was like walking into Costco or Wal-Mart... a plurality of light. Yay.
This was an interesting excercise in letting go of my normal woodorking tolerances and accepting that the center point at which to mount a 16" light, 10 feet off the ground, 50 feet away from the main entrace, could be 1/4" off.
We did succeed in getting all the lights that were supposed to be lined up actually lined up, and visually you cannot see any off line.
Circuit breaker box:
[attachthumb=#]
Circuit breaker area and switch central:
[attachthumb=#]
A parting shot of all the lights on from the main barn doors.
[attachthumb=#]
My brother-in-law and his wife had a horse barn built (60 x 36), completed just a few weeks ago. They got 100A service to the barn, but I think they got an estimate to do the internal electrical work and it about stopped their heart.
Sooo.. used my veteran's discount to pickup the materials at HD a bit cheaper for 'em, and spent both days doing and directing.
One thing I like in Madison is that homeowners are allowed to do your own electical work (if you occupy the home), as long as you get substantive changes inspected. I love that as I work in my basement and think to myself 'I think an outlet up on this post would be handy to have and I'd use it frequently and I need some more recessed lights here...', and an hour later I've got wiring run, possibly a new circuit hooked up, outlet installed, lights shining, and power tools running.
I've done about 30-40 hours of electrical work in both homes we've renovated, so whilst that doesn't qualify me to do your home, my BIL thought it qualified me to do his barn. I'm sure he thought the price was just right too... my wife invoked the family handyman rate of... free. (Why do I feel like I have a pimp?)
Anyway... used 12-2 UF throughout as he wanted different circuits for each "zone" of lighting and for the utility outlets. That UF stuff is annoying to strip and took more than a few hours to get good at. And stuffing that switch box full of 12-2 was a study in 'smooshing'. All lights are vapor-proof rated. Also put two floodlights on the outside, and a dusk-to-dawn light over the "people door". All switches are in a precise order specified by BIL's wife, hehe.
Everything lit up on the first try (testing as we went), and all staples and wire runs are on the far side of the main entrance (e.g. not the 'face' side) wherever possible. We even diverted to avoid a barn swallow nest up the corner of the rafters...
The final test with everything on was like walking into Costco or Wal-Mart... a plurality of light. Yay.
This was an interesting excercise in letting go of my normal woodorking tolerances and accepting that the center point at which to mount a 16" light, 10 feet off the ground, 50 feet away from the main entrace, could be 1/4" off.
We did succeed in getting all the lights that were supposed to be lined up actually lined up, and visually you cannot see any off line.
Circuit breaker box:
[attachthumb=#]
Circuit breaker area and switch central:
[attachthumb=#]
A parting shot of all the lights on from the main barn doors.
[attachthumb=#]
WarnerConstCo.
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Why UF cable?
That stuff is for burring in the ground.
That stuff is for burring in the ground.
Wood_Junkie
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- Dec 2, 2009
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- 1,311
Eiji Fuller said:horse barn? Dang I though that was going to be one heck of a woodshop.
I know, right? ... total waste of space [wink].
I could use 1/2 the space to store ALL my kids stuff AND all our outside care tools/machines AND lumber, and STILL have a 30x36 workshop (which is more than four times the size of my current workshop). Oh well, his wife is very into horses.
WarnerConstCo. said:
Apparently horse barns provide a potent combination of atmospheric corrosion issues... hay, manure, bird pooh, dust, mud, moisture, etc. Also, birds and critters pecking/chewing and other stuff that normal romex isn't quite up to snuff for... I dunno. It's what their electrician recommended and also the consensus I found online for horse barn wiring. So my BIL basically insisted on it (his dime).
... we wound up using about 600' feet of the stuff, with about 50 connections... I hate the stuff now, and want to run back to the wam comfort of working with normal romex.
WarnerConstCo.
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We have had plain Romex in my parents horse barn since I can remember, with not issues what so ever.
Huh, that stuff sucks to use for that.
Huh, that stuff sucks to use for that.
Winchester
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- Mar 7, 2010
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Been working on this in my spare time for the past few months.Peter Halle said:
Nothing like working for free for the in-laws [tongue]
Just finished off the railings today. Need to paint them and a few other things, screw on the top rails, build the steps and it's done...
