Parallel guide minimum rail length for 8' rip

[giono2]

Anybody tell me the minimum rail length required to use parallel guides and rip 8' (96").  I thought the 106" would work as the parallel guide width seems to be about 3" (96"+3"+3"=102").  Then I noticed at the clamps that hold the parallel guide to the rail are significantly wider which makes me think the rail needs to be the next size up.  Anybody able to answer this from experience?

 

[dltflt]

I do believe the 106" rail will work for the TS55 but if you have the TS75 the 118" rail would be much better.

 

[Naildrivingman]

I have a TS 75 and 106” rail.  The combination works fine.

 

[semenza]

[member=44471]giono2[/member]  The way the guides attach does not take away from the run in / out space for the saw. The saw runs right past them.

Seth

 

[PaulH99]

I have the 1400 (4.5 feet) and 1900 (6.25 feet) rails. When necessary I connect them together with a pair of the Makita rail guide connectors. Storage of both is easy and the Makita connectors are vastly superior to the Festool connectors.

 

[giono2]

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] that much I had figured out, I was more curious about how much the connection piece moved the extrusion in from the end of the rail.  It seem like if the outer edge of the extrusion and the end of the rail are offset by say 2" at an absolute minimum, then the entire setup won't clear a 96" sheet.  For the price difference I may just take the 118" rail and not have to worry.

 

[giono2]

[member=64998]PaulH99[/member] I already have 2 55" rails that I join when I need to, but I'm not sold on their accuracy.  On my longer rips I feel like I get a bow or belly in the cut.  I feel like the rails are flexing at the joint, but it could be poor technique too.  My thought was that getting a full length rail would eliminate this all together.

 

[semenza]

The guide bracket is about 5" wide. About 1" of the bracket width is  inside  the plywood length. Leaving 4"  to account for on each end. So 104" .  106" rail will just do it with a bit of wiggle room. Personally I prefer the 118" rail even without parallel guides on the end. 118" is just a bit easier to position and more versatile if ripping boards. Such as  rough length  "eight foot" lumber.

Seth

 

[PaulH99]

Seriously, get the Makita connectors. Vastly better than the Festool connector for the same price. They will change your mind about joining two tracks together.

[member=64998]PaulH99[/member] I already have 2 55" rails that I join when I need to, but I'm not sold on their accuracy.  On my longer rips I feel like I get a bow or belly in the cut.  I feel like the rails are flexing at the joint, but it could be poor technique too.  My thought was that getting a full length rail would eliminate this all together.

 

[giono2]

Thanks for the help all.  Some good ideas to try here.

 

[SS Teach]

No question about it the Makita connectors are superior. I would also recommend the Betterly Straight Line Connector. It is very easy to use and as the name suggests you get a straight connection. Good luck.

 

[Naildrivingman]

I have not personally used the Makita connectors and the Betterly gauge, but I have a very particular coworker who produces fine work.  He uses both of them...nuff said.

I also feel the same way about the Makita splinterguard for the same reasons.

I do not join rails, so I will not be investing in the connectors or the gauge, but I will be converting to the Makita splinterguards.