Planex 225 used for ceiling texture removal

[TA455HO]

This is not a popcorn ceiling, but a very, very heavy texture. In addition the seams were poorly done in the past and some house settling had worsened the situation so the task was to remove the heavy texture, re-tape all the seams and do a much, much lighter texture, if any. The whole room is 28' x 40' so the harness is critical for the extended overhead use. I continued to use the 36 grit and found a good way to keep the paper working longer. Once it would clog up like seen in the video I learned to stop very quickly and "peel" the clog off. It sounds odd, but while it is still warm it would peel off in one piece, but once it cooled even slightly the paper was basically unusable and had to be replaced. It took about 6 hours by myself to remove all the texture on the ceiling. A full 8 hour day with rests. The Planex is hooked up to a standard CT36E with the Planex hose. HEPA filter looked brand new at the end of the day, and has since with lots more use on drywall mud.

Notice I'm not wearing a respirator or dust suit, either.

Here's a little two minute video of what it looked like. (hopefully this works)

Festool Planex 225 sanding textured ceiling

 

[tbellemare]

Saphir 36?

I'll have to try that...

I assume you had perimeter suction going?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[TA455HO]

Yes, Saphir 36 was what I was using. Perimeter suction with full on both the vaccum and the sander. At first it's like trying to hold onto an anger Rhino by the ears, but after a few minutes she calmed down...I got better at using it...the heavy grit on the initially rough surface wants to walk across the surface. Side to side works much better than front to back and adjusting the harness so the pole bag doesn't hang between the legs is critical to freedom of movement. The vacuum easily moved around with me. I was expecting it to pull the hose out at the vacuum but it stayed put. Even if a cord got in the way the vacuum wouldn't move but I still never pulled the hose out of the vacuum. That is one good interference connection there. Of course, the connection at the Planex is solid and was not a question in my mind.

I did overload it once in about the first two minutes of use. Red light blinking on the Planex motor...it shut down for a cooldown. Just holding it too tight against the surface. I'm sure you've felt the spring-loaded pressure. There's a certain technique to it. Try it...let me know what you think. Even with these 7' 9" ceilings I was half-tempted to buy another extension to lessen the angle, but managed pretty well.

 

[tbellemare]

Thanks for that... I think you gave me a lot of good info' for my next try. I was thinking 80, but now I'm thinking serious Saphir.

It's getting fun.

Tom

 

[Kev]

How long till there's a FLOOREX (or whatever they'd call it) for sanding floors?

 

[Glenn in Shailer]

...maybe not a FLOOREX, but a RO 600 maybe.

 

[fp1337]

Probably a stupid comment but wouldn't that work on floors too???

 

[tjbnwi]

I've done small floors with mine. Also sand large table tops and the wood items.

Tom

 

[leakyroof]

I've done small floors with mine. Also sand large table tops and the wood items.

Tom

  The head is so light on a Planex, how much material removing would you expect on an old ,hard Red Oak floor to be able to get when compared to a Drum sander?  I tried out a Maple Cutting Board when I got my Planex just to see what that was like. It seems to me that the head would float over more versus cut and level like a heavy floor machine.  Your thoughts Tom?  [huh] [huh]

 

[tjbnwi]

I have sanded small oak floors with the Planex. The Granat paper is an improvement over the B2. A drum sander on large or floors that need a lot of work would be the better choice.



All of my cutting boards get sanded with the Planex before I oil them.

Tom