Planex sandpaper consumption

[aravilare]

Sanding INSL-X high build (latex) primer on walls/ceiling. It was applied a week or so ago at this point. Planex 2 paired with CT 36 AC, with the soft interface pad.

Is it normal for the sandpaper to become clogged/gummed within a few minutes of sanding? Issues across 220 and 320 grit. I tried 150 for a bit, and it seemed much better, but I can't accept the sanding marks from it.

Emptied the vacuum bag, turned up suction. Haven't really tried sanding at minimal power but might try that next.

I've also had issues with the sander ripping apart the soft pads (3 in ~20hr of sanding) at the attachment points (it just spins off). Is this normal?

 

[usernumber1]

i think the answer is yes but i have questions

how heavy are you pressing, how much are you going over the same spot. try to keep it cool by slowing down the machine speed and going over quickly. how much do you need to sand the primer anyway, i think most don't sand at all and if they do it's after spraying not rolling

i can do a room with a sheet of 220 single pass just to knock down the bumps after spraying. But the primer is acrylic. I imagine latex would be absolutely horrific
when we sand the oil based primer on cabinets, cubitron is the only one that doesn't gum up as fast, and it still needs frequent changing.

 

[aravilare]

i think the answer is yes but i have questions

how heavy are you pressing, how much are you going over the same spot. try to keep it cool by slowing down the machine speed and going over quickly. how much do you need to sand the primer anyway, i think most don't sand at all and if they do it's after spraying not rolling

I'm mostly relying on the Planex to provide pressure via suction, but I am holding the sander steady against the wall. What's odd is:
1. The paint debris on the sandpaper isn't hot at all, and it's only lightly stuck.
2. No gummy-ing or build-up on the paint surface.

I've had "melting" issues with the ETS/RTS on paint when I turn it up too high, but it's very obvious the paint is heating up or ripping off, and sticking to the sandpaper.

Primer was sprayed. I'm sanding it to get it as smooth as possible, removing all the texture bleeding through from the quickset drywall compound below.

i can do a room with a sheet of 220 single pass just to knock down the bumps after spraying. But the primer is acrylic. I imagine latex would be absolutely horrific
when we sand the oil based primer on cabinets, cubitron is the only one that doesn't gum up as fast, and it still needs frequent changing.

The sandpaper is still usable (i.e., the actual sandpaper isn't worn), but it's progressively picking more and more paint debris that I have to either pick off or swap paper. I've been realizing how much more efficient aggressively swapping sandpaper is, so I might just eat the cost.

 

[usernumber1]

its not that hot that you can feel it. latex coagulates itself on the pad from being overworked, its very subtle. i think you cannot sand the quickset texture bleeding through that's way too much. i run my hand just to feel any nibs are gone and that gets taken care of with the lightest fastest sanding.

your drywall finish has to be flawless you can't fix it with paint or primer coatings

 

[aravilare]

its not that hot that you can feel it. latex coagulates itself on the pad from being overworked, its very subtle. i think you cannot sand the quickset texture bleeding through that's way too much. i run my hand just to feel any nibs are gone and that gets taken care of with the lightest fastest sanding.

your drywall finish has to be flawless you can't fix it with paint or primer coatings

Maybe we're talking about 2 different things. I'm not applying texture but the hot mud compound I used isn't perfectly smooth (neither is all-purpose or plus3, but those seem better). I have no choice but to use a high build primer or some other non-porous filler to smooth out the surface (and some of the smaller pinholes).

For the most part, it works. Obviously, if you use an iPhone with 3x optical magnification at an inch, you can still spot sanding marks, pits, etc.. Still haven't applied the high gloss yet so who knows how telegraphed it will be. I sprayed semi-gloss in another room and it looks smooth, and that was done at the start of this project.

 

[usernumber1]

yea you can't fix it with paint the mud has to be perfect. the paint or primer doesn't have filling properties and it's not meant to. pinholes, unfeathered edges, toolmarks, etc everything will telegraph even the paper texture. the lighting conditions hide most of the issues but when they don't is where you apply level 5 finish
a skim coat of finishing mud would be much better to fix any mistakes. i don't know how many coats you got, takes 3 to get smooth walls. maybe 2 if it's not critical, maybe 4 if you're making mistakes