Preventing rust on hand planes

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Oct 10, 2014
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Today my new LV low angle jack plane arrived. in one word: excellent!  I'll be ordering more blades in different angles soon.  And probably more planes too!

My question is this: how do you keep these planes looking new?  I have a few Stanley sweethearts purchased new that have rust stains from hand oils on them; just a few years old. I thought I protected them but clearly not.  The veritas manual recommends silicon free paste wax.

What do you'll use?  Thanks in advance.
 
I use Boeshield which I've been pretty happy with on most of my metal tools.  I like it because it reduces the chance of rust and it dries dry and doesn't come off on wood when you use the tool.
 
I use jojoba oil on my planes. There are several acceptable choices, but most, if not all, need to be used on a regular basis. If your plane did not come with any instructions, you can find the manufacturer's recommendations on the product's web page -- the 'Instr' link on the product line. Here is a copy of the 'Care and Maintenance' portion of those instructions:

Care and Maintenance
The body of our bevel-up planes is ductile cast iron and comes treated with rust preventative. Remove this using a rag dampened with mineral spirits. Clean all machined surfaces, including the area under the nose and the toe itself.

We recommend that you initially, then periodically, apply a light coat of paste wax to seal out moisture and prevent rusting; this also has the added bonus of acting as a lubricant for smoother planing. Wipe off any wood dust from the surfaces that you will be waxing, apply a light wax coating, let dry, then buff with a clean soft cloth. At the same time, the solvents in the wax will remove any harmful oils left from your fingers that can lead to corrosion. This is especially important with planes that are gripped on the machined surfaces, such as when using this plane for shooting.

Keep in mind that paste wax contains silicone that, if transferred to your workpiece, could cause finishing problems such as "fish eyes". To avoid this problem, use silicone-free products, such as Waxilit® sliding agent and glue release, or a tool surface sealant. Either is an excellent alternative to regular paste wax. However, before treating a plane with a sealant, wipe off any fingerprints with a cloth dampened with a small amount of light machine oil. Remove any residual oil; then apply the sealant to the plane's sole and cheeks.

If storage conditions are damp or humid, the plane should, in addition to the treatment outlined above, be wrapped in a cloth or stored in a plane sack. This precaution will also guard against dings and scratches.

Every so often, take the plane apart to clean and lubricate it where necessary. Remove the lever cap, blade, adjustment mechanism and toe from the body. Clean all parts with a cloth dampened with a dab of light machine oil. The blade bed and machined contact surfaces between the body and toe, as well as the adjustment components (pivot, threaded shaft and traveller), will benefit from a light coat of oil to keep them working freely. For corroded plane bodies, we recommend you first remove the rust with a fine rust eraser, then treat as described above.

The bright finish on the brass components can be maintained as above. If a patina finish is preferred, simply leave the brass components unprotected until the desired level of oxidation has occurred, then apply a sealant. If you want to make them bright and shiny again, you can revitalize the surface with a brass polish.

The rosewood knob and handle have a lacquer finish and should require nothing more than a wipe with a clean cloth from time to time.

Lee Valley also offers their Plane Maintenance Kit (either as a kit or in individual products).

You might also take note of some of the other items that Lie Nielsen has to offer in their Tool Care Kit.
 
I keep a microfibre cloth stuffed into a glass jar with a little part of the cloth sticking out. I squirt it with jojoba oil from time to time, and wipe all my hand planes' sides and soles with it. I also pass blades and chipbreakers over it, chisels and saws too.

Haven't seen a spot of rust in years.
 

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Renaisance Wax was developed for the British Museum specifically to stop their metal exhibits from oxidising (rusting for iron based and tarnishing for brass and silver). I am experimenting with it to see how well it will work but I haven't used it long enough to be able to report.
 
neilc said:
I use Boeshield which I've been pretty happy with on most of my metal tools.  I like it because it reduces the chance of rust and it dries dry and doesn't come off on wood when you use the tool.
Been using it for years work real good on the planes and
on my steel table tops. Besides this I cover all my planes on my shelf and my steel table tops with a terry cloth towel. This has helped considerably
 
Camellia Oil. Also I bought the Plane Socks from Lee Valley to store planes that I don't use that often.
 
The plane socks from Lee Valley or Lie-Nielsen are described as treated with silicone and are meant to prevent rust. Can't vouch for whether they actually do that when you don't use the plane for awhile.
 
grbmds said:
The plane socks from Lee Valley or Lie-Nielsen are described as treated with silicone and are meant to prevent rust. Can't vouch for whether they actually do that when you don't use the plane for awhile.
I can vouch for them as I've had them for a few years now and no plane has shown any rust when I pull them out of a sock after a really long 'slumber' .... [smile]
Granted, a #8 Stanley is a bit cumbersome to get the sock off and back on, but the socks are flexible .
 
I'm probably gonna get the plane sock at some point as well -- it's kind of amazing how quickly the bodies rust, even after liberal applications of Jojoba oil.  Summer planing was especially conducive to creating rust with all that sweat pouring off my body.  So now I just keep a scotch brite pad on the bench for removing the rust spots that always seem to happen after a planing session. 
 
On UK workshop there're several threads pertinent to the question: jojoba and camellia oil are
recommended for short-term rust prevention, as is mineral oil, WD 40, babyoil ( scented mineral oil), Ballistol,even olive-oil. But all of the abovementioned have the tendency to polymerise/ gum after some time. So, they're not recommended for storage. For storage, some people swear by a product called Boeshield or something like that. One bloke loved Lanolin: who's ever seen rusty sheep?
Myself i use beewax or stearine lights i rub over the sole of the planes and jojoba for my chisels and WD 40 for my saws.
But you could also try to dry your sweaty hands in the shavings you've just produced. It won't completely dry your hands but it might lessen the problem.
 
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