Proper Sander Selection

folkboat49

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2021
Messages
2
I'm in the process of restoring a 25 ft wooden sailboat and the first task is stripping the paint. Currently using a heat gun and scraper but thinking a Festool sander might be a better / faster method. Plus I'll be able to use the sander for other tasks beyond paint / varnish stripping. The exposed planking width is 4-4.25 inches so thinking the RO 90 might be the best bet and it also has the triangular sanding pads for detail work which will also be beneficial.

Question: Will the RO90 be the best choice? Will it have the strength / power to remove material such as below water line anti-fouling paint etc. My original though was the RO150, but its cost along with a CT26 E Extractor has me rethinking my purchase.

Any thoughts will be appreciated.
 
A heat gun and chemical strippers don't kick up any dust, so I think I would start by removing as much as possible before resorting to the sander. 

But I have never stripped a boat, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
 
RO90 for an entire boat? Might aswell use a toothbrush.

Sounds to me like you need a RO150 and a Midi vac for that hull.
 
I'm also not familiar with the coatings used on boats, but I do agree if you are trying to get down to the bare wood, that stripping would be a good first step.  One thing I've used for tough stripping jobs is one of the old style "heating element" paint removers.  The heat softens an area and then it comes off pretty easily with a putty knife.  I recently picked a used one up to remove some old tile glue from plaster and it was the only method that worked for me.  You just have to be careful how long you keep it in contact with the paint since the element is hot enough to start a fire.

Here's one on eBay:https://www.ebay.com/itm/274851598008?hash=item3ffe6e8eb8:g:2ysAAOSwudVg3NVT

You can then follow up with a lighter sander like the ETS EC 150 to clean things up.  You might also consider a smaller DE like the Midi.  Is there a chance any of the paint is lead based?

Mike A.
 
If you want to get the job done in your lifetime  [smile]  grab a RO 150 as Alex suggested along with some Saphir discs to use on the antifouling paint. Use Granat discs for the other finishes and Rubin 2 for any naked teak or wood surfaces. 

Make sure you use a vac on the antifouling paint as it contains a high percentage of metals...usually copper. A carbide scraper is also an option and it won't put as much of the metals in to the air.

If this were my project, for difficult/tough/thick paint areas I'd try the RAS 115 or ideally the RAS 180.
 
I'm with Cheese on this one. Start with a RAS115, it will strip that coating right off. It is not a finish sander however, you are going to need to follow it up with something a more finish-oriented sander.
I would go with the RO150, since it can do the blend between stripping and final sanding with the rotex mode.
 
This is an identical target I presume:

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

If so, a RO 90 would be my first choice, and as other mentioned: paint/lacquer remover and/or heat and scraping first. Any sander will work hard removing hard lacquer, time consuming that is.
The RO 90 will do exactly the same as RO 125/150 only you will be able to control what exactly you are sanding better; curves, narrow boards and so on. Anything wider I’d stop with a RO 125.
Both those machines are lighter than the 150 - You probably won’t flip this boat upside down  [blink] to work ergonomically  [big grin]
 

Attachments

  • BD615778-36CA-444A-AD6E-C7B3433A89CB.jpeg
    BD615778-36CA-444A-AD6E-C7B3433A89CB.jpeg
    347.5 KB · Views: 342
  • B9390350-FF63-4396-A6F4-B8E29F0C086B.jpeg
    B9390350-FF63-4396-A6F4-B8E29F0C086B.jpeg
    474.9 KB · Views: 329
Hi.  Lots of good advice wrt sanders. 
But, for sure, fancy scraping is the way to go first.

Google 'Infrared Paint Removal' - then have a mooch round.
Back in the day, you could get 'jigs' that allowed two or three heaters to be on the go at the same time. 
Made for pretty quick removal, and, safe (allegedly) if any lead in the coatings. 
This sort of system is sufficiently quick, that need large, good quality scrapers - that also need scraping; to get the crud off, if you get my drift...  Might need to research appropriate scrapers as well.

Wonder what other people in the boating world do? 

Look forward to learning how it goes for you.
Good luck.

Regards Richard (UK)
 
Back
Top