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I wrote earlier about working with PH and doing glue-ups. Just finished this for a friend. Dimensions are 63 x 31. After researching, noted that Titebond people said there was no advantage to using poly glue over their III, so used it. The PH is very oily-feeling, so wiped everything well with acetone multiple times before gluing individual segments together. Left each segment in the clamps for over a day. Used some dominoes, but decided it was easier to just align and clamp. Took the top to a local woodworking shop where they ran it through their overhead sander for me. Finish is 3 rubbed and wet-sanded Watko Tung Oil Finish. It won't be in direct sunlight, so hopefully the colors will stay true for a long time. He is super happy with it.
Working with PH was "interesting." The rough boards I bought were pretty flat, but when I ripped it so I could get it on my jointer, I found there was a LOT of tension in the wood. I had to join quite a bit to get the 6' lengths flat enough to plane well. It wanted to bow, and then when I cut it to final dimension, the cut off long pieces not only bowed, but arc'd. I don't think I'll use it for anything else other than for color inlays. It also didn't want to absorb the finish as well as I'm used to with other hardwoods. But it turned out pretty well.
I wrote earlier about working with PH and doing glue-ups. Just finished this for a friend. Dimensions are 63 x 31. After researching, noted that Titebond people said there was no advantage to using poly glue over their III, so used it. The PH is very oily-feeling, so wiped everything well with acetone multiple times before gluing individual segments together. Left each segment in the clamps for over a day. Used some dominoes, but decided it was easier to just align and clamp. Took the top to a local woodworking shop where they ran it through their overhead sander for me. Finish is 3 rubbed and wet-sanded Watko Tung Oil Finish. It won't be in direct sunlight, so hopefully the colors will stay true for a long time. He is super happy with it.
Working with PH was "interesting." The rough boards I bought were pretty flat, but when I ripped it so I could get it on my jointer, I found there was a LOT of tension in the wood. I had to join quite a bit to get the 6' lengths flat enough to plane well. It wanted to bow, and then when I cut it to final dimension, the cut off long pieces not only bowed, but arc'd. I don't think I'll use it for anything else other than for color inlays. It also didn't want to absorb the finish as well as I'm used to with other hardwoods. But it turned out pretty well.
