Question about cutting non-wood materials with TS55/TS75

smirak

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Feb 28, 2017
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My facility has a need to bevel some materials in the production of our product.  We have cork that is 5mm and 7.5mm thick that has to have a bevel (opposite per pc) on one side.  The bevel would vary between 30 and 45 degrees depending on where the cork is placed on the product.  Currently, it's all being done by hand, and it is becoming an exercise in futility.  What kind of blade would work well for cork?  Also, do you think it would be overkill?  Meaning, would the TS55/75 just tear up the cork?

Thanks,
Kevin
 
You could try the fine blade for the TS 55, that should work.

It could help to clamp the cork between two layers of cheap plywood (to use as splinter guards for both top and bottom + both on- and offcut), should you have problems with tearout.
 
I'd agree with the sandwich approach; only times I've had to cut soft foam was either between foil layers, wood veneers or steel casings.

In all cases the foam was no issue with clean cuts, (using fine blade, laminate blade and metal blade) I suspect without a stiff surface any blade may shred before it gets to cut.
 
CrazyLarry said:
I'd agree with the sandwich approach; only times I've had to cut soft foam was either between foil layers, wood veneers or steel casings.

In all cases the foam was no issue with clean cuts, (using fine blade, laminate blade and metal blade) I suspect without a stiff surface any blade may shred before it gets to cut.

I'm not convinced.  I'd try cutting as many pieces as I could, 6-10 pieces at a time, with no backer if possible.
 
Gregor said:
It could help to clamp the cork between two layers of cheap plywood (to use as splinter guards for both top and bottom + both on- and offcut)
Why? The material is trapped between cutting surface/table on the bottom and guide rail and splinter guard foot on the top. What will layers of plywood add to that?
 
Svar said:
Gregor said:
It could help to clamp the cork between two layers of cheap plywood (to use as splinter guards for both top and bottom + both on- and offcut)
Why? The material is trapped between cutting surface/table on the bottom and guide rail and splinter guard foot on the top. What will layers of plywood add to that?
Surely you can use a worktable to cut into as the bottom. But slight imperfections in rail placement and/or differences in material thicknesses on bevel cuts will quickly lead to not having a single blade width kerf there (which could act as splinter guard for the bottom ) but a crater landscape that can't. See=117 for what I ment.

Also this gives a good edge on the offcut side, should the material be wide enough it'll yield two bevels for the price of one cut.
 
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