Question: Is it possible to make rabbets using the ts55?

nico

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Apr 22, 2008
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Dear all,

Maybe this has allready been discussed, but I couldn't find it, so is it possible to make rabbets using a guide rail and a ts 55?
regards,
Nico
 
Yes it would be possible rather fiddly but if its your only option it will work, may need a little clean up
 
Absolutely! Although I generally prefer to do it with a router, I have used my TS75 for creating both rabbets and dados. I would imagine it being a hint easier with the 55 (lighter saw).

I try to cut my rabbets from the inside working my way out to the edge. I feel that I get a better result with regards to chip-out.
 
harry_ said:
...
I try to cut my rabbets from the inside working my way out to the edge. I feel that I get a better result with regards to chip-out.

In this situation I would make the inner-most cut first, and then work from the outer edge in until you get to that first cut.
 
I once needed to rebate a section of 250x40mm rubberwood, to create a 20mm thick section with a 20x20 downturn on the front. It was to cover a windowcill in a kitchen I did. Hence I had to cut a rebate 230 wide by 20mm deep, and I did that with the TS55. Took quite a while though, and the saw cut out a couple of times, but I got it done in about 30 mins I think.
 
Ok
So there is no quick and easy way to do this ... damn.
thx anyway

Nico
 
For deep rabbets on jobs that I didn't bring my CMS, I have on occasion clamped the pieces to the side of my MFT-3, leveled with the top and used a guiderail to make a cut in the narrow side. The cut in the wide side can usually be made with a guiderail on top of the MFT if you stuff up the back of the rail for narrower pieces.You'll probably have to clean up the cut, because  the depth setting on the TS55 is only per mm , and the bottom of the kerf isn't flat.
I always carry a couple of chisels in my tooltote so cleaning up isn't that big a problem even if my OF 1010 is not with me on the job, and this method has worked for me on a couple of jobs.

Once I did a rabbet in a piece that was about twice as long as my MFT, so I had to cut the narrow side, and then loosen and reclamp it for the second half of the cut but if you mark your piece right, that won't be a problem.
It is however a lot easier if the part is shorter then the MFT, so you can use the grooves to house the clamps. The maximum rabbet depth using a TS55 on the guiderail is about 50mm, and on the MFT-3 you can use the full depth without "undercutting" the clamps.

If you have another bench with a flat top and a straight edge and possibility to clamp the piece to the side, you can of course use that instead of an MFT.

Regards,

Job
 
nico said:
Ok
So there is no quick and easy way to do this ... damn.
thx anyway

Nico

Nico,

I would not say that it is not quick & easy, it is just that doing it with a router or a dado set is probably easier it really depends on a lot of factors. If it is a narrow board & you have a MFT, you can just `tap` the stock from one cut to the next, essentially nudging the board over a kerf and cutting again. Not very difficult.

If the board is `of length` and you have the appropriate length (or combined length of) rail, then secure your stock. Then lay out your rail. Make your cut, then tap your rail to the edge of the new kerf cut. It is this method where I almost always work from the `inside-out`. By doing so I can simply tap on the backside of the rail to advance it to the next cut.

If you are just doing a narrow rabbet for something like a 1/4" cabinet back you can pretty much get it in 2 passes, 3 at the most. I have also done it for 3/4" stock as well. Given the choice, I will pretty much always choose the router for this task. The times when I have used the TS75 I did not have my router with me.
 
You can also use a Festool planer for a rabbet but that's sort of non-responsive to the original question.

Tom
 
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