I am considering the purchase of one of the Rotex sanders and a dust extractor. Need some help deciding which of each to purchase. I am a hobbyist working out of a basement shop. I don't necessarily need the largest capacity extractor. I would like to know how much of an advantage the 150 is over the 125 for typical furniture projects. Can this tool be expected to clean up a panel glue up as good as, or perhaps better than a belt sander? The array of abrasives that Festool makes is enough to make your head spin. What is a typical selection of grits needed for prepping bare hardwoods? Rubin, brilliant, etc. Why are there different bases? Can either of these sanders be used safely to wax/polish an automotive finish?
Questions on Rotex sanders and extractors
- Thread starter 10digit
- Start date
I will give you my 5 cent on some of your questions.
I own a rotex 150 and the CTL MINI. They would do fine with your needs.
Can this tool be expected to clean up a panel glue up as good as, or perhaps better than a belt sander? At least as good as.
What is a typical selection of grits needed for prepping bare hardwoods? Rubin, brilliant, etc. I use from 60 and up to 240 sometimes 320. Brilliant 2 is doing a fine job here at my place.
Can either of these sanders be used safely to wax/polish an automotive finish? Yes, they both can be used.
I own a rotex 150 and the CTL MINI. They would do fine with your needs.
Can this tool be expected to clean up a panel glue up as good as, or perhaps better than a belt sander? At least as good as.
What is a typical selection of grits needed for prepping bare hardwoods? Rubin, brilliant, etc. I use from 60 and up to 240 sometimes 320. Brilliant 2 is doing a fine job here at my place.
Can either of these sanders be used safely to wax/polish an automotive finish? Yes, they both can be used.
Daviddubya
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- 704
One significant difference between the RO150 and the RO125 is the surface area covered by the sander - any 6" sander covers 44% more surface area than any 5" sander. Sanding goes more quickly with the 6" sanders. I use the RO150, and I consider it a two-handed sander, if that makes a difference to you.
The only difference between the CT22 and CT33 dust extractor is the size of the bag. Both use HEPA filters. I suspect you will be perfectly happy with a CT22, if HEPA is important.
I use a range of Rubin and Brilliant paper for woodworking projects. Your dealer will likely sell you broken packs of paper, so you do not need to buy largew quantities. I typically sand from 80 or 100, through the grits to 180 or 220. Rubin paper is a bit more durable than Brilliant, but either paper will last a long time.
The Rotex sanders work well in flattening a panel. I think the Rotex is as easy or easier to handle than a belt sander. There is less chance of digging the edge of the sander into the panel using the Rotex.
The softer bases are used for contour sanding.
Check out Jerry Work's document on sanding here:
http://www.festoolusa.com/woodworking.aspx
Scroll down to "Getting the most from Festool sanders by Jerry Work".
The only difference between the CT22 and CT33 dust extractor is the size of the bag. Both use HEPA filters. I suspect you will be perfectly happy with a CT22, if HEPA is important.
I use a range of Rubin and Brilliant paper for woodworking projects. Your dealer will likely sell you broken packs of paper, so you do not need to buy largew quantities. I typically sand from 80 or 100, through the grits to 180 or 220. Rubin paper is a bit more durable than Brilliant, but either paper will last a long time.
The Rotex sanders work well in flattening a panel. I think the Rotex is as easy or easier to handle than a belt sander. There is less chance of digging the edge of the sander into the panel using the Rotex.
The softer bases are used for contour sanding.
Check out Jerry Work's document on sanding here:
http://www.festoolusa.com/woodworking.aspx
Scroll down to "Getting the most from Festool sanders by Jerry Work".
I agree with the other posts.. all good info.
In my personal experience I would recommend the 6 inch 150.
The bigger pad not only removes more material but IMHO is easier to control.
I have a CT mini and it seems to have a large enough bag for my needs.
The bigger vacs would be better if you don't mind the higher price and if you latter feel the need to add the boom arm on it you can unlike with the mini or midi.
Just my 2 cents.
In my personal experience I would recommend the 6 inch 150.
The bigger pad not only removes more material but IMHO is easier to control.
I have a CT mini and it seems to have a large enough bag for my needs.
The bigger vacs would be better if you don't mind the higher price and if you latter feel the need to add the boom arm on it you can unlike with the mini or midi.
Just my 2 cents.
I wish the mini had hepa. Then I'd buy one. It's the sort of tool you use room to room doing pick up jobs when you really want to keep things clean. I have two 33s that are great but kind of heavy. Be nice if they made a mini with hepa that was a bit more ergonomic too. Strictly something that goes room to room for one tool doing finish work, no wheels, fits in a systainer or "is" a systainer instead of holding them.
Another thing I want is a festool cord that stays plugged into the vacuum and retracts with the push of a button so I can switch tools using one cord and then just push a button and have it zip back in to move around. Be best if it was dedicated and left the current plug open for non festool cords
Another thing I want is a festool cord that stays plugged into the vacuum and retracts with the push of a button so I can switch tools using one cord and then just push a button and have it zip back in to move around. Be best if it was dedicated and left the current plug open for non festool cords
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Hi,
I don,t have the ROTEX so I can't comment on that directly, But I do have the ETS150/5 and it uses the same abrasives . The pads have a different attaching system but are the same otherwise.
The pad that comes with the ROTEX is the Soft pad (which in my head I call medium) it is good for all around general sanding and you can get by with it for just about everything.
The Super Soft pad is noticably squeshier and is nice for that final sanding and on finishes. The catalog mentions contours but it means something like a gently curved door etc. It isn't going to do edge profiles.
The Hard pad is definetly stiff. I like it for doing narrow stock and edges because it won't flex and round them. I also use it for leveling off rough spots and heavy saw marks, etc.
The different abrasives do have noticably differing effects. My current line up is 40gr Cristal
80gr Cristal
100 Rubin
150 Rubin
180 Brilliant 2
220 Brilliant 2
320 Brilliant 2
400 Brilliant 2
I could certainly add more in but this seems to cover all my general needs for material removal, stripping, sanding wood, and finishing. I tried to pick the most appropriate type of paper for the grit/ job I expected it to do. Seems to be working well so far. Your choices will depend on what you are planning to do finishing wise in particular. Also have a look at this http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=1460.0
Seth
ETS150 Abrasives srs
I don,t have the ROTEX so I can't comment on that directly, But I do have the ETS150/5 and it uses the same abrasives . The pads have a different attaching system but are the same otherwise.
The pad that comes with the ROTEX is the Soft pad (which in my head I call medium) it is good for all around general sanding and you can get by with it for just about everything.
The Super Soft pad is noticably squeshier and is nice for that final sanding and on finishes. The catalog mentions contours but it means something like a gently curved door etc. It isn't going to do edge profiles.
The Hard pad is definetly stiff. I like it for doing narrow stock and edges because it won't flex and round them. I also use it for leveling off rough spots and heavy saw marks, etc.
The different abrasives do have noticably differing effects. My current line up is 40gr Cristal
80gr Cristal
100 Rubin
150 Rubin
180 Brilliant 2
220 Brilliant 2
320 Brilliant 2
400 Brilliant 2
I could certainly add more in but this seems to cover all my general needs for material removal, stripping, sanding wood, and finishing. I tried to pick the most appropriate type of paper for the grit/ job I expected it to do. Seems to be working well so far. Your choices will depend on what you are planning to do finishing wise in particular. Also have a look at this http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=1460.0
Seth
ETS150 Abrasives srs
Hi,
I have RO150 and CT22 and am sorry I didn't buy CT33. I often use my TS55, Domino, OF1400 and Kapex and the bag (fortunately Longlife) is full sometimes after one or two days (I'm a hobby woodworker). So my choice would definitely be RO150 (with ETS 150/3) and CT22 (33).
Josef
I have RO150 and CT22 and am sorry I didn't buy CT33. I often use my TS55, Domino, OF1400 and Kapex and the bag (fortunately Longlife) is full sometimes after one or two days (I'm a hobby woodworker). So my choice would definitely be RO150 (with ETS 150/3) and CT22 (33).
Josef
Seth--semenza said:
Really appreciate your posting your lineup. One of the most difficult (and expensive) questions when you've just bought your first Festool sander is "what types? what grits?".
I've got a whole bunch more coarse Brilliant than I'm ever likely to use. A newbie would do well to simply order the products you've listed as an initial inventory.
Ned
Don Bullock
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- 34
I bought a RO125 earlier this year. While I haven't used it as much as you may, I have found it to be excellent for my needs. Unfortunately I don't have a Festool Dust Extractor yet. Since I purchased so many tools last year I'm having to cut back some on my purchases for a while. As soon as I can come up with the cash I do plan to buy a CT22. For now I'm using a ShopVac with an Oneida Dust Deputy between it and the sander. This combination is working out well. The only problem I have is the connection between the sander and the DD hose. I couldn't find a good connector that was the right sizes, but a little duct tape "solved" the problem.
Steve Jones
Member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2007
- Messages
- 405
Dan, I use very old ShopVac myself (Actually it's a $50 "Janitors cart" which also provides a trash bag and a frame for supporting a home made Boom Arm) I found a couple of vac hoses for Porter Cable dust control which has screw on molded ends, The larger one has a swivel and nicely fits the TS55 and the smaller end fits the Festool sanders, Domino, Jigsaw, etc (I purchased the universal adapter from Woodcraft to fit the small diameter hose to the shop vacs)
I just purchased a 150 Rotex last year after debating the 125 vs. the 150 (and if I wanted to spend that much on a sander). I went with the 150 for the faster sanding and to get a flatter surface sanding glue ups. Unless you mainly sand narrow stock (face frames, etc) you can't go wrong with the 150. I use a CT22 vacuum, but any of the vacuums should have no problem capturing the dust from the Rotex.
As for flattening a panel, I've had better luck with the Rotex than a belt sander getting rid of the dried glue and leveling out the panel. A belt sander with a sanding frame may do a better job though, I've never used one.
I use about the same grits selection and paper types as Seth. The coarse grits are great at leveling a panel or just removing a lot of wood quickly. You can get very fine abrasives and "polish" the wood. I did this on a piece of oak, and it feels smoother than some film finishes!
Hope this helps,
Tom.
As for flattening a panel, I've had better luck with the Rotex than a belt sander getting rid of the dried glue and leveling out the panel. A belt sander with a sanding frame may do a better job though, I've never used one.
I use about the same grits selection and paper types as Seth. The coarse grits are great at leveling a panel or just removing a lot of wood quickly. You can get very fine abrasives and "polish" the wood. I did this on a piece of oak, and it feels smoother than some film finishes!
Hope this helps,
Tom.
As always, thank you all for your insightful viewpoints on the various sanding options and dust collection. To further confuse myself, I began looking to see what other options are available from other manufacturers. My research on dual mode sanders found:
Bosch 1250DEVS ($250)Bosch 1250 DEVS sander,
Rigid R2611 ($129)Rigid R2611 sander,
Makita BO 6040 ($300) Makita BO 6040 sander
or the Fein MSF 636 ($436)Fein MSF 636 sander.
Has anyone compared these to the Festool RO 150? Likewise any thoughts on the Bosch and Fein dust extractors?
Bosch 1250DEVS ($250)Bosch 1250 DEVS sander,
Rigid R2611 ($129)Rigid R2611 sander,
Makita BO 6040 ($300) Makita BO 6040 sander
or the Fein MSF 636 ($436)Fein MSF 636 sander.
Has anyone compared these to the Festool RO 150? Likewise any thoughts on the Bosch and Fein dust extractors?
I owned very briefly the Rigid R2611 which I intended to use for two projects I had at the time: sanding drywall and portions of a large window frame I was refinishing. It was tough to get my CT Mini hose to stay on it with an adapter. I tryed it on the window and I was done trying that in 2 minutes. Why? the weight. I looked up the weight and I could swear it was listed as just under 9 lbs but I guess I was wrong I just looked at your thread and it says 6lbs allthough Home Depot lists it as 6.3lbs.
I ended up doing every inch of the walls in my living room with a ETS 150/3 which weighs in at 4lbs and was a joy to use on that job as well as wood.
Currently I am trying my RO 150 ( 5lbs by the way ) on some wall work and allthough it is a little more cumbersome as compaired to the ETS 150 I wanted to see how it would do because I need to have something more aggressive for removing some paint in another room that has flat over semi gloss :
I was pondering the Bosch 1250 as well before I bought the RO 150 but they didn't have them in stock yet at Lowe's so I couldn't see if the dust collection port would be compatable with my Mini. This sander does look like it could be a viable alternative to the RO 150 if you don't mind giving up a few IMHO Big pluses with the RO150.
1. the edge protector which allows you to get right up to a adjoining surface without damaging your sanding disc or the machines pad.
2. The center hole in the disc which pushes (using air) the sanding dust out from the center to the outer vacuum holes. This makes your paper last longer as well as less mess.
3. Festool abrasives: I also recommend Seth's choices for grits and types. Ive used Brilliant 2 for striping paint off wood shelves and if you regulate your speed setting so you don't build up too much heat and melt the paint the disc stays clean and lasts for a long time. ;D
Oops I guess I was a little long winded there :-\
I ended up doing every inch of the walls in my living room with a ETS 150/3 which weighs in at 4lbs and was a joy to use on that job as well as wood.
Currently I am trying my RO 150 ( 5lbs by the way ) on some wall work and allthough it is a little more cumbersome as compaired to the ETS 150 I wanted to see how it would do because I need to have something more aggressive for removing some paint in another room that has flat over semi gloss :
I was pondering the Bosch 1250 as well before I bought the RO 150 but they didn't have them in stock yet at Lowe's so I couldn't see if the dust collection port would be compatable with my Mini. This sander does look like it could be a viable alternative to the RO 150 if you don't mind giving up a few IMHO Big pluses with the RO150.
1. the edge protector which allows you to get right up to a adjoining surface without damaging your sanding disc or the machines pad.
2. The center hole in the disc which pushes (using air) the sanding dust out from the center to the outer vacuum holes. This makes your paper last longer as well as less mess.
3. Festool abrasives: I also recommend Seth's choices for grits and types. Ive used Brilliant 2 for striping paint off wood shelves and if you regulate your speed setting so you don't build up too much heat and melt the paint the disc stays clean and lasts for a long time. ;D
Oops I guess I was a little long winded there :-\
Hey 10digit,
Congratulations on (presuambly) having all of your fingers. Considerable achivement for a woodworker, I've noticed.
I have the RO125, and love it. I'm very glad to have it rather than the RO150 because of its size - I have relatively small hands, and the RO150 was just too big to fit my fingers around. I used the RO125 about 5 hours or more over the last 2 days, and have had none of the numbness that I usually get with sanders. Pretty impressive. Plus, it does a great job both hogging out wood, and polishing it to a fine finish. I must have told my wife about ten times over the last few days, "I LOVE having good tools!" Worth every penny, in my opinion. I build mostly furniture, so I couldn't see the need for the RO150 - the 125 is plenty big for anything I'm sanding.
Congratulations on (presuambly) having all of your fingers. Considerable achivement for a woodworker, I've noticed.
I have the RO125, and love it. I'm very glad to have it rather than the RO150 because of its size - I have relatively small hands, and the RO150 was just too big to fit my fingers around. I used the RO125 about 5 hours or more over the last 2 days, and have had none of the numbness that I usually get with sanders. Pretty impressive. Plus, it does a great job both hogging out wood, and polishing it to a fine finish. I must have told my wife about ten times over the last few days, "I LOVE having good tools!" Worth every penny, in my opinion. I build mostly furniture, so I couldn't see the need for the RO150 - the 125 is plenty big for anything I'm sanding.
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