radial arm saw?

Timtool

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Mar 13, 2011
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I am in the market for a second miter saw, i just moved into my new workshop as some may have noticed.
Right now a have an improvised miter saw bench in the hall outside of my closed workshop, this bench is right next to my wood rack and workshop service entry, so it's neatly placed.

the bench is on the right side against the workshop wall (it's the only pic i had showing the situation)
I have in total 16m of wall space there, but really only 6-7 for the bench because of the door passage.

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My problem is that the kapex is now "outside" of the workshop, and serving basically as a chop saw which is a waste of technology.
I was thinking of bringing it back inside which would mean a smaller bench, but it could serve for more delicate/accurate work.
And outside have a more basic tool, and i was thinking of a radial arm saw. Having two miter saws seems silly, it seems to me that a radial could bring more possibilities along but i have never worked with one as they are quite rare here and honestly their operation seems kinda weird. It also seems their footprint is "relatively small" compared to classic compound miter saws with rails that extend way back and would force me to put the bench further from the wall. This i want to avoid because i store stuff with my forklift on top of the workshop ceiling so it would be nice to keep the bench at max 70cm from the wall.
 

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I have had one for many years and found it pretty useful. Since I got the Kapex, I keep a dado stack in the RAS almost all the time - very handy. Although possible, I would never do rip cuts with the RAS - every time I see someone doing that, I cringe.

Here's my basement setup (I am just a hobbyist):

_DSF3913-X2.jpg
 
I sold my radial arm saw a very long time ago. I found it to be an exceptionally dangerous tool.
 
If you could find an Inca brand radial arm that would fit your needs and is safer than the American style. I sold mine and wish I hadn't. They have been out of business for a while so it would take some searching.  Just my two cents.
 
Birdhunter said:
I sold my radial arm saw a very long time ago. I found it to be an exceptionally dangerous tool.

They make me nervous too ... My father was a "lucky and clumsy" wood worker. He was always cutting his hands, splinters, etc. I could never watch when he was using his Dewalt radial arm saw - why he's still got two thumbs only God knows!
 
Many people use a radial arm saw in climb cut mode. It can be very dangerous in this mode. I know that they should not, but it is very tempting given the extra cut width it allows.
 
[size=13pt]I use one every weekend for docking timber in the Sales TY where I work. I always check where my left hand is, and with my right hand firmly pull the saw at a constant and slow speed.

The new owners are going to replace it with what I understand to be a bottom feed rising blade. I have not heard of these saws before. Has anyone else?
 
Untidy Shop said:
[size=13pt]I use one every weekend for docking timber in the Sales TY where I work. I always check where my left hand is, and with my right hand firml pull the saw at a constant and slow speed.

The new owners are going to replace it with what I understand to be a bottom feed rising blade. I have not heard of these saws before. Has anyone else?

Thought they were mainly used in metalwork .. hmm.
 
Pop up docking saws are very common in production facilities,there were four in the lounge frame wood shop at a company i worked for in Brisbane.
They are also common in truss plants,and often have digital fences and auto adjustment,ie you put in a cut list and the stops move as required automatically.
From memory there is also larger versions which are computer controlled are mainly European and the Danes make the best ones.

Check this link to see a version of each but there are plenty more just ask Doc Google.

http://www.machines4u.com.au/search/?action=browse_search&industry_id=1&category_id=334
 
jimbo51 said:
Many people use a radial arm saw in climb cut mode. It can be very dangerous in this mode. I know that they should not, but it is very tempting given the extra cut width it allows.

Actually, I was taught to use the saw in this mode, it can be rather interesting when taking a shallow cut and the 12" blade with a positive rake starts to walk towards you on its own.
 
Larso said:
Pop up docking saws are very common in production facilities,there were four in the lounge frame wood shop at a company i worked for in Brisbane.
They are also common in truss plants,and often have digital fences and auto adjustment,ie you put in a cut list and the stops move as required automatically.
From memory there is also larger versions which are computer controlled are mainly European and the Danes make the best ones.

Check this link to see a version of each but there are plenty more just ask Doc Google.

http://www.machines4u.com.au/search/?action=browse_search&industry_id=1&category_id=334

That looks like a good idea for a lumber yard .. I can imagine something like this http://www.machines4u.com.au/view/advert/-POP-UP-CUT-OFF-SAW-18-/53144/ being popular for the task.
 
I used one (10" DeWalt  early 60's vintage)for years.  I sometimes loaded onto my truck and used it on site for form work and did some shelves and simple cabinets to keep myself busy during winter months.  did a lot of work on my own house as well.  I never had a kick back even tho i often used it for ripping.  Even ripped 4x4 yellow pine.  I was careful in setting up and never forced the blade on cross cuts.  Never forced the wood when ripping.  When ripping, anything over an inch thick, i generally made several cuts and used wedges for over 2" thickness.

My dad had an 8" that he used for very fine precision work.  because he wanted extreme control, he installed a worm drive.  that thing could take all day creeping across a board.  It could move so slow your could hardly see it move.

When i started setting up my own (inside) shop, i got a table saw, and then a SCMS,  I then sold my RAS.  I now wish I had kept the RAS and not gotten either table saw or SCMS.  When set up for use, the 8-1/2" SCMS actually takes up more space than the RAS.  The RAS would take up more space than the Kapex, I am sure.

The most important things I found with the RAS was to be  very careful in setting up for cuts, and do not force feed, especially when ripping.  There are those who insist the saw is very dangerous for ripping.  It can be, but with proper precautions and set up, it is safe.  I have seen people stand directly in line of a board when ripping with table saw.  That can be just as dangerous.

I also was very careful with infeed and out feed setups.  I never set up either in such a way that i put undo pressure on the blade..

@ Timtool, I think you will find many uses for such a saw.  you have a great mix of power tools already, but i don't think you would regret having a RAS.
Tinker
 
An up cut saw is no where near as useful as a RAS, yes they can both cross cut.

Climb cut? The blade only spins one direction, I dont even need hold the work piece still, the blade rotation and cut direction will hold the work piece down and back against the fence.

 
My first stationary tool purchase was in 1979 and was a Craftsman radial arm saw.  I sold it the early 90's and don't miss it a bit.  It wouldn't hold settings and really wasn't good for anything but rough cutting lumber to size.  I am sure just about any other make would be better than that saw. 

From a users perspective, I think the dangerous perception of the radial arm saw is largely related to the type of blade used.  The saw I purchased new came with a blade that had a positive hook (rake) angle of about 20 degrees.  At the time, I didn't know any better thinking the manufacturer actually knew what they were doing.  Boy was that wrong!  Blades with positive hook angle when used on a radial arm saw become self propelling toward the user.  The proper blade to use is a zero or negative hook angle.  Once that was figured out, the radial arm saw became much safer.
 
Steve Rowe said:
My first stationary tool purchase was in 1979 and was a Craftsman radial arm saw.  I sold it the early 90's and don't miss it a bit.  It wouldn't hold settings and really wasn't good for anything but rough cutting lumber to size.  I am sure just about any other make would be better than that saw. 

From a users perspective, I think the dangerous perception of the radial arm saw is largely related to the type of blade used.  The saw I purchased new came with a blade that had a positive hook (rake) angle of about 20 degrees.  At the time, I didn't know any better thinking the manufacturer actually knew what they were doing.  Boy was that wrong!  Blades with positive hook angle when used on a radial arm saw become self propelling toward the user.  The proper blade to use is a zero or negative hook angle.  Once that was figured out, the radial arm saw became much safer.

Steve, I had forgotten about negative hook blades.  When I was in construction, i worked with a lot of contaminated wood (Nails & concrete) while building forms and scaffolding. I also used my circular saw for making plunge cuts into center of form llumber when needed. I always used negative hook blades for a lot of same reasons they should be used on a RAS. When ripping, I never used a rip blade.  Always a combo blade.  Thanks for reminding.

Darcy, the biggest RAS I have used was a 10".  Your saws wood go thru a 4x4, or even a 8x8 like the wood was not even there.  I know you never made a mistook with that saw.  you would not be here to tell us about it.  [eek]
Tinker
 
I run a positive hook blade, although only about 5 degrees.

My old dewalts i have had are rock solid and do not come out of adjustment. 

I do way more then just defect lumber with a ras.

My current GP will cut 4" material with no issues.
 
I think I was using -2 and -5 degree hook for crosscutting.  For riping, i was using combo blades.  I shied away from full rip blades for ripping on the RAS.  Like you, Darcy, I found my old RAS to be rock slid once i set it up.  I could work all day without resetting.  I did not allow any of my helpers to use the saw.  It was tough enough to teach them how to operate a cement mixer.  I dared not allow them to work with the RAS. [unsure]
Tinker
 
The RAS I sold was a Craftsman. It had a nasty habit of riding up on top of the wood and accelerating toward me at a scary speed. I tried ripping a board ONCE. It threw the board through the garage wall.

This saw was my first ever power tool other than a drill. Yes, I did read the manual. I continued to use the saw until I could justify a table saw. Then, the RAS was sold.

I consider all power tools to deserve a great deal of respect, but the RAS is a beast unto itself.
 
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